Purchased a bunch of Huskies

[Ketchup]

Hmmmm 36mm stroke?... is there a big borr cylinder that's a direct drop on?

Not that I know of. Maybe 562 could be modded?

Right. I totally get that... buuuut, if I make shims and open the bearing retaining lip .020" per side, they can still swap out for stock bearingsnon the next rebuild. Lol.

Sure. But why not just do OEM, maybe some green loctite?

 

[Rich Fife]

Not that I know of. Maybe 562 could be modded?

I gotta see if I can find a bad 562 cylinder

Sure. But why not just do OEM, maybe some green loctite?

i havent had 461 bearings fail... so I'd much rather give them a go. The spacers are simple and much easier to remove without loctite.
I was saying 36mm crank to stroke it.

 

[Ketchup]

I gotta see if I can find a bad 562 cylinder

i havent had 461 bearings fail... so I'd much rather give them a go. The spacers are simple and much easier to remove without loctite.
I was saying 36mm crank to stroke it.

I think I have a dead one. Want measurements?
461 bearings are steel race vs the nylon in 550?
36mm 562xp crank seems the most likely to succeed. Maybe pull the stuffers and shave the weights?

 

[Rich Fife]

I think I have a dead one. Want measurements?

If you wouldn't mind. Base width and length, the alignment pins and the bolt pattern center to center.

461 bearings are steel race vs the nylon in 550?

The ones I have are steel caged...

36mm 562xp crank seems the most likely to succeed. Maybe pull the stuffers and shave the weights?

I think I'd have to clearance the case because the large end of the rod would hit... (I think).

 

[davidwyby]

Mmm, 288…

 

[lehman live edge slab]

If you wouldn't mind. Base width and length, the alignment pins and the bolt pattern center to center.

The ones I have are steel caged...

I think I'd have to clearance the case because the large end of the rod would hit... (I think).

Must not be factory Stihl don’t think they used anything but plastic cages for a long time

 

[Ketchup]

If you wouldn't mind. Base width and length, the alignment pins and the bolt pattern center to center.

The ones I have are steel caged...

I think I'd have to clearance the case because the large end of the rod would hit... (I think).

Yeah the case would need clearanced 0.8mm or so. I think the sides of the weights would need shaved. I have a 562 crank on hand but no 550 to compare. Have both jugs. I think I saw a YT vid of a 550/562 build.

 

[Rich Fife]

Must not be factory Stihl don’t think they used anything but plastic cages for a long time

I'm almost certain they are OEM 044 bearings that are steel caged... I'll have to look at my order form and check my bearing bin.

 

[Rich Fife]

I'm almost certain they are OEM 044 bearings that are steel caged... I'll have to look at my order form and check my bearing bin.

Maybe 046... my memory is hit and miss... does anybody have a stihl catalog to verify this?

 

[Rich Fife]

Yeah the case would need clearanced 0.8mm or so. I think the sides of the weights would need shaved. I have a 562 crank on hand but no 550 to compare. Have both jugs. I think I saw a YT vid of a 550/562 build.

I'll see if I can find it... thank you!!!

 

[srcarr52]

Should I remove the crank stuffers to allow for more oil to get into the bearings?

They loose a lot of power without the stuffers.

 

[Rich Fife]

They loose a lot of power without the stuffers.

Thank you.

 

[Tor R]

Yeah, I came to that conclusion. Hence why I'm onto stihl bearings. Lol

If you zoom in, there is a gap... if I machine the bearing pocket lip/retainer .020" per side, that will allow the stihl bearing to pass through and I'd have to machine shims for correct spacing... BUT, one could easily convert it back to OEM bearings without any issues... OR.... I counter bore the pocket deeper by .035" - .040" on both sides and then simply run Stihl bearings and annotate near the pockets that OEM husky bearings won't work....

Which way would yall go?

Should I remove the crank stuffers to allow for more oil to get into the bearings?

If you plan to sell your 550 mk2, and as I understood you earlier in the thread, that is the plan, you should install OEM crank bearings.
The most important thing on the 5xx series is to get the new crank bearing all the way to the bottom of the bearing pocket, as the 5xx series has very little tolerance from the crank to the bearings.
Personally, I keep the bearings in the freezer overnight, preheat the crankcase to about 160˚C, the bearings go in just then, and then quickly cool down.
It is certainly debatable whether that method is best, but that is how I do it.

 

[whitesnake]

I agree I would just use oem bearings vs trying to retrofit some other bearing. They can live just fine with proper fuel/oil.

 

[Rich Fife]

I'm in full send mode with the stihl clutch side bearings on both sides of the crank... worst case scenario, these bearings can be replaced with the OEM bearings.

 

[Duce]

I'm in full send mode with the stihl clutch side bearings on both sides of the crank... worst case scenario, these bearings can be replaced with the OEM bearings.

Hope you let buyer know this, if sold. Problem to me is bearings going bad, can ruin crank, cylinder, piston and case.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Hope you let buyer know this, if sold. Problem to me is bearings going bad, can ruin crank, cylinder, piston and case.

Problem is even if it wasn’t bearings fault how does a person prove it wasn’t. Then a person is just dealing with a mess where if it’s new oem bearings it’s much harder to blame seller. Besides honestly all bearings fail and I’d rather have plastic cages I’ve talked to the skf bearing rep that’s local to us at the mine many times and he recommended plastic for extreme hot cold environments. He will sell you want because they make both and cost is close but he will always recommend the best bearings for the applications. They will all wear out and need changing but if a client gets poor life out of your bearings they quit buying. 5 taconite mines in a 100 mile area buy a lot of bearings.

 

[Rich Fife]

Hope you let buyer know this, if sold. Problem to me is bearings going bad, can ruin crank, cylinder, piston and case.

Why wouldn't I disclose this to the buyer if i actually sell it?... its as simple as, this saw has stihl 044/046/460/461 clutch side bearings (on both sides)... wont hurt the performance functionality or longevity of the saw... providing everything else is up to par... if you don't like it, toss in the oem husky bearings. seems pretty straight fwd to me.

 

[Rich Fife]

The oem clitch side bearing failed in less than 6 months... who knows why... could've been a manufacturing defect, not enough lubricant, and air leak at the seal... or a multiple issues... ya just never know...
There is no discoloration on the crank, the crank halves run true, the rod ends aren't discolored, the piston is perfect and the cylinder still has the factory crosshatches.
I've never had an 046/460/461/462 bearing fail... not to say I wont... but, I have seen a lot of 5 series huskies with failed crank bearings. So here's the test, if the stihl bearings fail, then without a doubt, there is a design flaw within the 5 series huskies... I think Carr nailed what the issue was in one of his earlier comments...

 

[Tor R]

In my opinion, some of the faults on the 5xx series are downright assembly errors at the factory.
Some of the crank bearing failures are due to leaner mixture.
I've said it before, when Husqvarna makes service tools for cold pressing crank bearings, it's hardly better maintained at the factory production...

Nylon bearings were used on the 346 as well, and there were significantly fewer PTO bearing failures on that series compared to the 550.
And doesn't Stihl also use nylon bearings now and then?