HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

[Spike60]

I agree with everything you say @Stump Shot. Curiosity will get the best of me on sending them that e-mail. LOL The list of NLA parts for the 200 series saws does keep getting bigger, so establishing a source like that has some value. We are the only shop around that will work on the older saws, and I'd like to continue that. Surprising how people hear about us and then dig out older saws that they'd given up on.

 

[Stump Shot]

I agree with everything you say @Stump Shot. Curiosity will get the best of me on sending them that e-mail. LOL The list of NLA parts for the 200 series saws does keep getting bigger, so establishing a source like that has some value. We are the only shop around that will work on the older saws, and I'd like to continue that. Surprising how people hear about us and then dig out older saws that they'd given up on.

With the idea of taking older PRO saws and turning them into affordable firewood saws for people, I can't rule any source for parts out, especially when working on several different brands and all being older. Like right now for instance, HL Supply has some of the stuff I'm going to need for a 2100(not that it's a firewood saw) that I'm currently working on, thought about naming that saw NLA as most everything I need for it is. LOL

 

[bigbadbob]

Picked this up at a farm sale,,ya all probably seen it in other posts. Still on it first tank. Price was too good to turn down,,also got a miller plasma at the same sale.
Its now a 372xt, did the transfer covers and a little grinding on the bottom of the jug,, removed all the carb/intake stuff,,may do a MM later, but you cant get those 266 muffler ports anymore. Been doing some husky seals,, found a trick to get them on without the proper tool, I put a wrap of wide (1.5 inch) electrical tape around the crank, grease it and the seal goes on nice, pull the tape out done, but you all probably know this. Still have a 395 and 288 to do this winter, 395 is getting some welding done by rocketnorton and the 288 is a runner but needs the cover screws helicoiled and a going over/rebuild,,have some stihls on the go to,, man their parts anre expensive,,,
BBB

 

[Stump Shot]

Husqvarna question of the day. On a 266xp like exSW pictured above where does the other wire to the kill switch go to? Not the one to the module as seen in that picture, but the other one that should be going to ground. There is no hole in the case for a one wire switch, so figure it must be a two wire as it was all gone when I received the saw, I repaired the module wire OK, and have a new two wire switch Evidently this guys mantra was, just keep ripping parts off until it goes again. LOL

 

[Simondo]

Husqvarna question of the day. On a 266xp like exSW pictured above where does the other wire to the kill switch go to? Not the one to the module as seen in that picture, but the other one that should be going to ground. There is no hole in the case for a one wire switch, so figure it must be a two wire as it was all gone when I received the saw, I repaired the module wire OK, and have a new two wire switch Evidently this guys mantra was, just keep ripping parts off until it goes again. LOL

Best as i can tell without ever having a SG 266 on the bench ...the 2 wire switch seems to be on the SG saws .
Pic ??

 

[Stump Shot]

Best as i can tell without ever having a SG 266 on the bench ...the 2 wire switch seems to be on the SG saws .
Pic ??
View attachment 45925

Yes there's that, this one is a 1983 plain XP NO G. The IPL does show a two pole switch, but does not show the wire, nor does any manual I have looked at. Definitely not a one wire as there is no hole to put the ground screw in, like in later saws. Kind of wanted to see what was right here, not that I could not come up with something, even if a bit hokey.

 

[Simondo]

Yes there's that, this one is a 1983 plain XP NO G. The IPL does show a two pole switch, but does not show the wire, nor does any manual I have looked at. Definitely not a one wire as there is no hole to put the ground screw in, like in later saws. Kind of wanted to see what was right here, not that I could not come up with something, even if a bit hokey.

I will be guessing only.. further to my first suggestion .......Maybe the same switch is on both ? just not connected to a G switch ?
This pic is for the 1983 266...guess you have it.

 

[bigbadbob]

This is the switch I found online, ground thru the screw,,google show most like this,,
Maybe you have a SG case??
On one picture of a saw the second wire came thru with the coil wire and grounded thru a screw near the hole grommet.

 

[exSW]

Husqvarna question of the day. On a 266xp like exSW pictured above where does the other wire to the kill switch go to? Not the one to the module as seen in that picture, but the other one that should be going to ground. There is no hole in the case for a one wire switch, so figure it must be a two wire as it was all gone when I received the saw, I repaired the module wire OK, and have a new two wire switch Evidently this guys mantra was, just keep ripping parts off until it goes again. LOL

Here's mine. The loose black wire goes to a second spade on the switch that broke off.

 

[Stump Shot]

This is the switch I found online, ground thru the screw,,google show most like this,,
Maybe you have a SG case??
On one picture of a saw the second wire came thru with the coil wire and grounded thru a screw near the hole grommet.
View attachment 45934 View attachment 45934

Yes, that is a normal switch for most 2xx series saws, definitely not a G saw, I have another parts saw like it, but it has no wires at all to it just a two prong switch. Figures, this one is Abby Normal. LOL

But thanks for trying. SS

 

[Stump Shot]

I will be guessing only.. further to my first suggestion .......Maybe the same switch is on both ? just not connected to a G switch ?
This pic is for the 1983 266...guess you have it.
View attachment 45930

Like I told BBB, the other saw I have has the two spade switch but no wire, it must terminate somewhere. With the G saws it gets tied in with the extra system, this saw has no extra system. Thanks for helping though. SS

 

[Stump Shot]

View attachment 45953

Here's mine. The loose black wire goes to a second spade on the switch that broke off.

I can feel getting closer now, that's the one. Where does the other end of the black wire in the picture that is going down the hole for the throttle lever terminate at? Thanks for the picture and help. SS

 

[Simondo]

Like I told BBB, the other saw I have has the two spade switch but no wire, it must terminate somewhere. With the G saws it gets tied in with the extra system, this saw has no extra system. Thanks for helping though. SS

If im understanding this right ...and i may be way off but the 266 SG sort of a switch will have 1 wire to coil .... 1 wire will go to the second switch that turns on the heat and what looks to be a ground wire from the IPL. It looks that the proper 266 switch hasnt got the built in ground tab on the switch case. ??

 

[Simondo]

I can feel getting closer now, that's the one. Where does the other end of the black wire in the picture that is going down the hole for the throttle lever terminate at? Thanks for the picture and help. SS

Found this ...Guess this is off the heat switch(in black) and the Blue one could be the wire seen going down the handle .

 

[exSW]

The black wire goes to the second switch that Simon shows. There is a tab for it that comes off the ground screw. That tab is gone on mine.

 

[Stump Shot]

Looks like y'all need a Lectrishon.

...and a psychiatrist.

 

[bigbadbob]

As always "Looking for a screw", or at least a place for a screw hole for the ground,,,
BBB

 

[Stump Shot]

Well boys, think I dun figured it out. The picture tells the story, yanked this switch out of a junked saw that only had one wire going to it, the other tab being bare. The switch grounds out to the frame when it slides in place, @Motorhead got me thinking so I checked it with an ohm meter one tab is ignition on and off, the other ground all the time for G system. So it's not like a switch like for a 372 at all, which is what I was going to use, which I think I could have grounded at one of the screws holding the coil if needed. Might as well use this old timer for now. Thanks to @exSW , @Simondo , @bigbadbob and @Motorhead for replying today. Funny though, I feel kind of stupid now, even though I just learned something. SS

 

[Stump Shot]

Installed that dirty old switch in the saw after dinner tonight. Took a points file to the sides of the hole for it, to shine up the metal to make a good connection to ground. Saw has spark like it should and none when it should not. Thought this may be worth a mention knowing @exSW powder coated his cases. and for anyone else with a dirty old saw that wont shut off, as a place to look for problems. SS

 

[jake wells]

received a 55 rancher my friend put together for me im quite pleased about how well it runs and cuts only mods done is a base gasket delete and the baffle box removed from inside the muffler.