HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

[Stump Shot]

My older cousin told me the style of the Meteor would let the piston run cooler as it lets more air/fuel charge under the piston to help in cooling it. Which maybe, but I was more curious about how it actually would run, as this saw came to me as a dead saw, so I did not have the benefit of knowing how it performed before, other than other 266's I've ran, those were SE's not sure if that makes any difference as to the piston design or not, as this is an XP.

 

[Simondo]

Could not help but notice the difference between the original and Meteor piston for a 266XP circa 1986. Not that I think the replacement won't work, pretty sure it will, was curious to know what difference it would make running, if at all. Calling out @Spike60 , @Tor R , and any other Husqvarna aficionados that would like to chime in.
(Piston has been carbon scored, Mahle cylinder is salvageable, Meteor piston was chosen as it was 1/5 price of OEM, $ reality.)

View attachment 44075

How about the affect on trans charge velocity ?? Out of interest..take a look at the IPL for ..181,266,262,254.
I have seen a piston like the Meteor in most of them unlike what shows on the IPL .Most have been KS, Mahle or Gilardoni so never gave it a second thought.

 

[Stump Shot]

How about the affect on trans charge velocity ?? Out of interest..take a look at the IPL for ..181,266,262,254.
I have seen a piston like the Meteor in most of them unlike what shows on the IPL .Most have been KS, Mahle or Gilardoni so never gave it a second thought.

I'll have to look at that a little more, (OEM)maybe it acts kinda like a valve to the transfers?

 

[Stump Shot]

After taking the ring off and looking at the piston in the cylinder I could only conclude that the bottom skirt portion on the OEM existed for stability, this is my theory for now, unless I learn otherwise. When stopped at TDC it is parked between the upper and lower transfer. So other than briefly passing by the lower transfer on stroke it does not do a thing as far as I can see.

 

[exSW]

Now you have me curious but my old 266 slug isn't handy.

 

[Stump Shot]

I'm not skeered of the Meteor, in fact I cleaned the cylinder up and installed it tonight. For now I'm calling it an upgrade as it looks like what you see in more modern saws.

@exSW , Have you not put your 266 back together yet?

 

[exSW]

I'm not skeered of the Meteor, in fact I cleaned the cylinder up and installed it tonight. For now I'm calling it an upgrade as it looks like what you see in more modern saws.

@exSW , Have you not put your 266 back together yet?

Nope. Parts are at the powder coater.

 

[Simondo]

The new piston will make a noticeable difference in power.

Care to share ?

 

[DSS]

Care to share ?

What he said. My 266 don't need a piston but I got a meteor on the shelf

 

[Stump Shot]

The new piston will make a noticeable difference in power.

I'm hoping in a good way?

 

[Stump Shot]

Nope. Parts are at the powder coater.

That should be real nice, I've been looking forward to seeing it. Mine is just going to be another dirty old saw.

 

[Stump Shot]

The saw will run smoother and at a little higher rpm.

I have used both style pistons,The newer style gets the fuel air mix through the engine faster.

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease a bit.

 

[Spike60]

Could not help but notice the difference between the original and Meteor piston for a 266XP circa 1986. Not that I think the replacement won't work, pretty sure it will, was curious to know what difference it would make running, if at all. Calling out @Spike60 , @Tor R , and any other Husqvarna aficionados that would like to chime in.
(Piston has been carbon scored, Mahle cylinder is salvageable, Meteor piston was chosen as it was 1/5 price of OEM, $ reality.)

View attachment 44075

266's came with that full skirt style piston. SE/XP makes no difference; it was just a change of marketing terms at that time. The later style piston was used on the 268XP and Jonsered 670Champ. They are fully interchangeable. In fact, if you try to order that original 266 piston, Husky automatically supercedes it up to the newer one. 503 659 403

For purists, there are some aftermarket full skirt pistons out there. Forester is one that I know of. One thing you gotta watch though is that there are a lot of pistons out there labeled as fitting the 266/268. Many are for the open port 268, and they run like crap in the closed port saws. The one in the pic is the correct one.

 

[Stump Shot]

266's came with that full skirt style piston. SE/XP makes no difference; it was just a change of marketing terms at that time. The later style piston was used on the 268XP and Jonsered 670Champ. They are fully interchangeable. In fact, if you try to order that original 266 piston, Husky automatically supercedes it up to the newer one. 503 659 403

For purists, there are some aftermarket full skirt pistons out there. Forester is one that I know of. One thing you gotta watch though is that there are a lot of pistons out there labeled as fitting the 266/268. Many are for the open port 268, and they run like crap in the closed port saws. The one in the pic is the correct one.

Thanks for the knowledgeable reply, I had a feeling you would know about this saw. I'm no purist perse and if this works better, I'm all for it. Forester had their chance with me, even though Ahlborn Equipment is literately in the next county, I just can't keep spending good money after bad. The aforementioned saw is back together and is awaiting a few odds and ends(fuel line, ignition switch etc.) to be complete and ready to fire. Which I look forward to running this iconic saw of old, well into the future.

 

[Spike60]

Forester had their chance with me, even though Ahlborn Equipment is literately in the next county, I just can't keep spending good money after bad.

Yes, I know just what you mean there. I recently got so fed up that I closed my account after a lot of years. Too many mis-picks, substitutions, shipping damage, different parts under the same part number, etc. Every order I'd have to call them to straighten out some problem. The last problem is still sitting here. Told them if they want their junk, to send a call tag. I'm not going ship it back and have a credit there as I have no intention of doing any future orders.

And there's a big difference between what they were and what they are. Years ago they had great deals on quality stuff. Over runs, buy outs and such. Used to look forward to getting the catalog every month. Now, they mostly peddle the same Chinese knockoff parts that are available from a lot of other sources at much cheaper prices. And you have to spend 3 times as much to get free fright as from other suppliers. I'm done with those folks.

 

[exSW]

View attachment 44160

Now you have me curious but my old 266 slug isn't handy.

Here it is,same as yours stumpshot.

 

[Stump Shot]

Yes, I know just what you mean there. I recently got so fed up that I closed my account after a lot of years. Too many mis-picks, substitutions, shipping damage, different parts under the same part number, etc. Every order I'd have to call them to straighten out some problem. The last problem is still sitting here. Told them if they want their junk, to send a call tag. I'm not going ship it back and have a credit there as I have no intention of doing any future orders.

And there's a big difference between what they were and what they are. Years ago they had great deals on quality stuff. Over runs, buy outs and such. Used to look forward to getting the catalog every month. Now, they mostly peddle the same Chinese knockoff parts that are available from a lot of other sources at much cheaper prices. And you have to spend 3 times as much to get free fright as from other suppliers. I'm done with those folks.

If you would like, take a look at the ArborTec site advertised here. If you click on the wholesale spare parts tab, it will show you where to E-mail them, tell them a little about your business, and you can get a discount on their parts. Which are FarmerTec, which I've found to be really good as of late. Their P&C kits I've used perform great, hold up to or even beat the originals. Which is great, especially stuff that's NLA from Husqvarna or Stihl. They do not do much for Jonsered, other than what Husqvarna parts that happen to fit. Well any way, guess when one goes down, one comes up. SS

 

[Stump Shot]

View attachment 45322
Here it is,same as yours stumpshot.

Look forward to seeing that go back together. Guess that Meteor is a go, so no worries. Maybe it will make them a true XP.

 

[Spike60]

If you would like, take a look at the ArborTec site advertised here. If you click on the wholesale spare parts tab, it will show you where to E-mail them, tell them a little about your business, and you can get a discount on their parts. Which are FarmerTec, which I've found to be really good as of late. Their P&C kits I've used perform great, hold up to or even beat the originals. Which is great, especially stuff that's NLA from Husqvarna or Stihl. They do not do much for Jonsered, other than what Husqvarna parts that happen to fit. Well any way, guess when one goes down, one comes up. SS

Those prices are really good. Can't imagine how much better the wholesale numbers could be. But I really only use OEM parts here in the store. Only exceptions I make are when OEM parts are NLA. Kind of a reputation thing for us, but the entire cost structure changes when doing this in a dealership environment. The difference in cost for me to buy AM vs OEM is not that great. So, mix in labor, other parts and the rebuild price with an OEM top end will be less than $100 more than one done with an AM kit. Most of my guys will want the OEM kit for that little bit extra. And any 372 size saw I do will get used hard, so I won't chance AM parts. I've got 4-5 guys waiting for any 272/372 I can put together. Have to ration them out. LOL

But for a firewood saw type application, I think the AM parts are worth taking a shot with. Provided that they are fully disclosed to the customer, and priced accordingly. There are plenty of guys, both actual dealers and craig's list saw flippers that use that stuff and charge OEM prices. That's flat out dishonest in my book. I see a fair amount of guys come in here with saws that they bought used that were rebuilt with Chinese parts. NONE of them knew what they were getting.

 

[Stump Shot]

Those prices are really good. Can't imagine how much better the wholesale numbers could be. But I really only use OEM parts here in the store. Only exceptions I make are when OEM parts are NLA. Kind of a reputation thing for us, but the entire cost structure changes when doing this in a dealership environment. The difference in cost for me to buy AM vs OEM is not that great. So, mix in labor, other parts and the rebuild price with an OEM top end will be less than $100 more than one done with an AM kit. Most of my guys will want the OEM kit for that little bit extra. And any 372 size saw I do will get used hard, so I won't chance AM parts. I've got 4-5 guys waiting for any 272/372 I can put together. Have to ration them out. LOL

But for a firewood saw type application, I think the AM parts are worth taking a shot with. Provided that they are fully disclosed to the customer, and priced accordingly. There are plenty of guys, both actual dealers and craig's list saw flippers that use that stuff and charge OEM prices. That's flat out dishonest in my book. I see a fair amount of guys come in here with saws that they bought used that were rebuilt with Chinese parts. NONE of them knew what they were getting.

From what I gathered the discount is set by how big you are, I told them I operate a small little part time saw shop and got a surprising discount I could not ignore, would think one for you would be even bigger. I would not expect you to stray from OEM at your business but NLA and being a big hobbyist might be worth your time, your buddy Walt's as well, same stuff he already likes. Might just as well pay less for what you have to deal with anyway. I use this stuff in project saws for myself, with good results and always ask people what kind of part they want in there saw before I put it in. Surprised by how many want the AM cost savings, money being harder to stretch now days I suppose.
You would literally be just out the time it took to send an E-mail to them, once returned you will have your log in info to enter to receive your discount to buy. Pretty easy. Does take a bit to receive your order so there is some planning ahead to do as well. For me I like that I can afford to stock a bit of parts here to have on hand for saws I know that are out there, so I can service them faster. I would always recommend having a conversation with the customer whether buying/repairing a saw as to what will be done, what went in and what to expect, it's just good common sense to be up front about these things and a very easy and simple thing to do, and why I choose to sell by word of mouth, face to face, as reputations are hard to build, very easy to ruin.