Husqvarna 350/346 Repair Thread.

[Tor R]

50327001. It is the larger of the 2 they offer and requires a 7.1mm drill bit

its the 503 27 40 01, right?

 

[Spike60]

The 44mm cylinder that's on this saw is IMO a much better top end than the capped port jug on the later 350's and 353's. Mentally I know it's hard for some guys to like open ports, and you can "do more" to the later cylinder. But we're talking a Husky 350 here. The 44 runs great with a gasket delete and muff mod, and you don't have to replace the dished piston. But the real negative with the later jug is that there was some kind of harmonic vibration that caused them to spit out the muffler bolts. It was a problem with both the 350/2150 and 353/2152. Worse on the plastic saws, as people would run them with a loose muffler and the exhaust gases would melt a hole into the case. "Hey my saw has an oil leak." Lowering the RPM's to the low 12's actually made a difference, but I doubt that idea would play well on this site. Do you guys get the impression that I don't like the 45mm jug all that much? JUNK!

Some other random points:

351's: These saws should all have the 44mm jug. But the last few of them came in with 353 top ends before the official model change over.

There are 2 different starter pulleys/springs. The early saws used smaller ones that were also used on some trimmers. (and still are). The later ones used a larger pulley and spring, that is still used on the 445/450. You can SOMETIMES tell visually which is which. All starter housings that were given additional ribs to keep wood chips from entering the starter, have the larger pulley/spring. But the change to the internals took place about 2 years prior to the housing change. Good to know this stuff when ordering parts as if you just ask for a 350 starter spring, you want to get the right one.

The changeover from course threads to fine threads on most hardware took place at about the same time as on the 357/359 family. 2002/2003 or whatever.

The early metal cased saws also had the twist on air filter before the switch was made to the clip on filter. If you guys are wondering how I know all this stuff, this one was learned years ago by selling someone the wrong filter and having him come back pissed off

Fun stuff: There were actually G models of the metal case open port saws. 351/2149 as well as the 353/2152. These would have to be the rarest models in the series out there, especially the Husky versions, cause most G models would be 346's. The Jonsered 2147 was never imported to the US, so they made due with the 2149/2152 as their pro saws until the 2153 was released. I have a buddy that has a 2149WH. So, heated grips on any of those models would be a rare find.

 

[Dub11]

The 44mm cylinder that's on this saw is IMO a much better top end than the capped port jug on the later 350's and 353's. Mentally I know it's hard for some guys to like open ports, and you can "do more" to the later cylinder. But we're talking a Husky 350 here. The 44 runs great with a gasket delete and muff mod, and you don't have to replace the dished piston. But the real negative with the later jug is that there was some kind of harmonic vibration that caused them to spit out the muffler bolts. It was a problem with both the 350/2150 and 353/2152. Worse on the plastic saws, as people would run them with a loose muffler and the exhaust gases would melt a hole into the case. "Hey my saw has an oil leak." Lowering the RPM's to the low 12's actually made a difference, but I doubt that idea would play well on this site. Do you guys get the impression that I don't like the 45mm jug all that much? JUNK!

Some other random points:

351's: These saws should all have the 44mm jug. But the last few of them came in with 353 top ends before the official model change over.

There are 2 different starter pulleys/springs. The early saws used smaller ones that were also used on some trimmers. (and still are). The later ones used a larger pulley and spring, that is still used on the 445/450. You can SOMETIMES tell visually which is which. All starter housings that were given additional ribs to keep wood chips from entering the starter, have the larger pulley/spring. But the change to the internals took place about 2 years prior to the housing change. Good to know this stuff when ordering parts as if you just ask for a 350 starter spring, you want to get the right one.

The changeover from course threads to fine threads on most hardware took place at about the same time as on the 357/359 family. 2002/2003 or whatever.

The early metal cased saws also had the twist on air filter before the switch was made to the clip on filter. If you guys are wondering how I know all this stuff, this one was learned years ago by selling someone the wrong filter and having him come back pissed off

Fun stuff: There were actually G models of the metal case open port saws. 351/2149 as well as the 353/2152. These would have to be the rarest models in the series out there, especially the Husky versions, cause most G models would be 346's. The Jonsered 2147 was never imported to the US, so they made due with the 2149/2152 as their pro saws until the 2153 was released. I have a buddy that has a 2149WH. So, heated grips on any of those models would be a rare find.

Thanks I was going to keep my the 44mm head cause I'm a cheapskate. But now it's the preferd choice by the experts!

 

[Tor R]

The 44mm cylinder that's on this saw is IMO a much better top end than the capped port jug on the later 350's and 353's. Mentally I know it's hard for some guys to like open ports, and you can "do more" to the later cylinder. But we're talking a Husky 350 here. The 44 runs great with a gasket delete and muff mod, and you don't have to replace the dished piston. But the real negative with the later jug is that there was some kind of harmonic vibration that caused them to spit out the muffler bolts. It was a problem with both the 350/2150 and 353/2152. Worse on the plastic saws, as people would run them with a loose muffler and the exhaust gases would melt a hole into the case. "Hey my saw has an oil leak." Lowering the RPM's to the low 12's actually made a difference, but I doubt that idea would play well on this site. Do you guys get the impression that I don't like the 45mm jug all that much? JUNK!

Some other random points:

351's: These saws should all have the 44mm jug. But the last few of them came in with 353 top ends before the official model change over.

There are 2 different starter pulleys/springs. The early saws used smaller ones that were also used on some trimmers. (and still are). The later ones used a larger pulley and spring, that is still used on the 445/450. You can SOMETIMES tell visually which is which. All starter housings that were given additional ribs to keep wood chips from entering the starter, have the larger pulley/spring. But the change to the internals took place about 2 years prior to the housing change. Good to know this stuff when ordering parts as if you just ask for a 350 starter spring, you want to get the right one.

The changeover from course threads to fine threads on most hardware took place at about the same time as on the 357/359 family. 2002/2003 or whatever.

The early metal cased saws also had the twist on air filter before the switch was made to the clip on filter. If you guys are wondering how I know all this stuff, this one was learned years ago by selling someone the wrong filter and having him come back pissed off

Fun stuff: There were actually G models of the metal case open port saws. 351/2149 as well as the 353/2152. These would have to be the rarest models in the series out there, especially the Husky versions, cause most G models would be 346's. The Jonsered 2147 was never imported to the US, so they made due with the 2149/2152 as their pro saws until the 2153 was released. I have a buddy that has a 2149WH. So, heated grips on any of those models would be a rare find.

I'e never picked up one 351/G saw in Southern Norway, seems they mostly sold 346xpg here.
Its not often I see them 350's either (luckily it is), semi pro saws was mostly 353, non heathers.

One of the porters in US (cant remember his name but he was kinda mr 346) said there was a quad closed port 2149 also....

 

[decableguy2000]

its the 503 27 40 01, right?

yes

 

[Mattyo]

The 44mm cylinder that's on this saw is IMO a much better top end than the capped port jug on the later 350's and 353's. Mentally I know it's hard for some guys to like open ports, and you can "do more" to the later cylinder. But we're talking a Husky 350 here. The 44 runs great with a gasket delete and muff mod, and you don't have to replace the dished piston. But the real negative with the later jug is that there was some kind of harmonic vibration that caused them to spit out the muffler bolts. It was a problem with both the 350/2150 and 353/2152. Worse on the plastic saws, as people would run them with a loose muffler and the exhaust gases would melt a hole into the case. "Hey my saw has an oil leak." Lowering the RPM's to the low 12's actually made a difference, but I doubt that idea would play well on this site. Do you guys get the impression that I don't like the 45mm jug all that much? JUNK!

Some other random points:

351's: These saws should all have the 44mm jug. But the last few of them came in with 353 top ends before the official model change over.

There are 2 different starter pulleys/springs. The early saws used smaller ones that were also used on some trimmers. (and still are). The later ones used a larger pulley and spring, that is still used on the 445/450. You can SOMETIMES tell visually which is which. All starter housings that were given additional ribs to keep wood chips from entering the starter, have the larger pulley/spring. But the change to the internals took place about 2 years prior to the housing change. Good to know this stuff when ordering parts as if you just ask for a 350 starter spring, you want to get the right one.

The changeover from course threads to fine threads on most hardware took place at about the same time as on the 357/359 family. 2002/2003 or whatever.

The early metal cased saws also had the twist on air filter before the switch was made to the clip on filter. If you guys are wondering how I know all this stuff, this one was learned years ago by selling someone the wrong filter and having him come back pissed off

Fun stuff: There were actually G models of the metal case open port saws. 351/2149 as well as the 353/2152. These would have to be the rarest models in the series out there, especially the Husky versions, cause most G models would be 346's. The Jonsered 2147 was never imported to the US, so they made due with the 2149/2152 as their pro saws until the 2153 was released. I have a buddy that has a 2149WH. So, heated grips on any of those models would be a rare find.

Good stuff Bob


Btw...it WAS a 44.3 jug. Just looked small to my eye. Per usual...u were right.

 

[Onan18]

Cylinder differences, 45mm on the left, 44mm on the right.


The 45mm (top) has larger cooling fins.


Exhaust.


Intake.


Here is the biggest external difference, 45mm has the caps.

 

[Onan18]

A look down both barrels.


44mm.


45mm.

 

[Onan18]

44mm intake port.


45mm intake port.


44mm exhaust port.


45mm exhaust port.

 

[Onan18]

Tank fixed with trimmer cord and a new A/V mount installed.


The outer tank vent puck was missing, here is the new one.


Goes in here, you can see the smaller inner one is still in place.


Installed, I like to use a little dab of sealer around the outside edge.

 

[Onan18]

New fuel line and filter is always a good idea.


Here is the old stuff, JUNK!


That's better.


Tank ready to go.

 

[Onan18]

Time for the bottom end, there are four screws that hold the bearing cap in place.


They are 5mm Allen.


These are a coarse thread bolt and were prone to backing out. The later saws switched to a finer thread that were less likely to come loose.

 

[Onan18]

Remove the piston.


Bearing cap out.


And the crank out.


It is a really good idea to re-surface the bearing cap before reassembly.


On both sides, a flat plate and some sandpaper work well.

 

[Onan18]

Time to go back together, this is my sealant of choice. If you have never tried it before I highly recommend it.


Apply a thin layer to both mating surfaces after a thorough cleaning and let it skin over.


The side of the bearing cap that says "Made in Sweden" points towards the front.


It is a Husky after all.


Crank and bearing cap re-installed.

 

[Onan18]

Time to address that pesky plastic clamp. Here is the update kit, it cost $9.00 as of 12/2017.


Out with the old...


In with the new.


The pulse port is in the boot, make sure you get it fully seated in the cylinder.


And on, this clamp can be difficult to clasp. Don't be surprised if it takes several tries.

 

[Mattyo]

you didn't remove the coil, but if ya do, that brass ground strap tends to be....er..... forgotten when you are putting that cap back on lol...

 

[Mattyo]

no harm in grinding that clamp ... the ...uh... male end tends to not want to slide, so grind it with a ramp/ chamfer to allow it to glide over towards the female end

 

[Onan18]

New base gasket, if you are into that sort of thing.


Piston back on.


Cylinder down, tighten the four screws in stages in an X pattern.


Flywheel on and tightened, be sure to double check your air gap.

 

[Onan18]

As @Spike60 mentioned earlier, the mufflers have a nasty habit of coming loose on this series. This is especially bad on the plastic case saws as it can melt a hole clean through into the oil reservoir.


In order to help prevent that I like to add a 346 muffler support bracket.


The bracket comes with an extra leg that needs to be removed.


There is no where to mount it on the plastic case saws.

 

[Onan18]

Bracket modified and painted.


Remove the top felling spike screw and loosen the bottom one.


Exhaust on with a new gasket and all bolts reinstalled and tightened.