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Husqvarna 272/Jonsered 670 Repair Thread

Spike60

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The gray 61 top covers fit fine. The same mold as the 266XP cover. Not sure when the gray covers first appeared; 1984???? It's the white "rancher" covers that don't fit over the plug. That's what Walt has on his 61/272 build.

I have a gray top 61 with the 272 kit on it. Have some pics showing the clearence with the covers and also the mufflers. The twin coil saws came with a lower muffler than the single coil saws. The taller mufflers can be used, but they will be very close to, if not touching the top cover. Could cause some melting with heavy use. The lower profile mufflers are NLA, and there aren't any AM options that I'm aware of.
 

Spike60

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Well, that is almost a 266 part number.
266: 501686001 (1981 an 1984 266SE IPL)
162: 501524001

So, the confusion continues a little longer. :) Is that an OEM or AM top end kit that was used?

Below is a pic of the gray top sitting on an OEM 272 kit. I'll compare some top covers tonight and see if I can solve the riddle.



IMG_1303.JPG
 

Stump Shot

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@Stump Shot @Spike60 here are some shots of the top cover that was on the saw. Bob I believe that you are correct, I think this is a 162 SE cover.

View attachment 96553 View attachment 96554 View attachment 96555 View attachment 96556

After looking at some of the later 266 IPL's, a U shaped plastic plug was provided to put where the hole by the fan is for winter. After some reflection, even though the plug is NLA, (I never take out the winter plug anyway) and this does seem to be a better place to get fresh air from, as it is a mainstay on later saws. Will consider it an upgrade to remove the knock out and install a bellows on my 266xp. Glad this thread happened to bring it to my attention. :)
 

d.l.d

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Great thread,Wouldn’t the 272 top end need a larger carburetor?That 163 seems a bit small for a 52 mm bore.
Thats kida what i thought too when I've done these builds swapping to a 52mm bore. Cant say i know it makes much of a difference since ive done it to every one but i use a 288 carb. as they are around 35.00 free shipping on ebay for a new oem/tillotson one. And as long as the case has the idle adjustment screw in it, its easy. Just a little bending of the linkage and grinding off the rivet that holds the plastic roller on and taking it out to fit the linkage through. If the case doesn't have the idle screw built in and its on the carb instead its a little more of a pain as you have to drill and tapp the case and really there isn't enough there metal there that i feel comfortable to hold the screw with especially if its a customer saw.
 

Spike60

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OK, a little more info has turned up on this top cover question. Seems as though the earliest 266's came with the single screw air filter that was on the 162 and 61 white top saws, and a a different top cover. I have a service bulletin from 1982 announcing the larger air filter being introduced on the 266 beginning in early 1982. Also says the new air filter will not fit on the 162 and 61, which is obvious.

From the same builletin it also says: "under certain hard dust conditionsit has shown that a superior filter function is obtained if the rubber bellows is removed." So, don't sweat it if the rubber bellows is missing. :)
 

davidwyby

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Ok, here’s a question : 2 pc coil starter depths

this one on my 266 started slipping so I put the one from my 61 on because it was about 1/16” deeper. 0D0659BA-C910-4A24-9195-9C7C0635C42D.jpeg
 
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Johnmn

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Ok, here’s a question : 2 pc coil starter depths

this one on my 266 started slipping so I put the one from my 61 on because it was about 1/16” deeper. View attachment 306315
Yes there was a change somewhere along the way, I am not sure when but I have ran into the same issue in the past.
If the recoil I sent you isn't working I have more and I can send you another.
 

davidwyby

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Yes there was a change somewhere along the way, I am not sure when but I have ran into the same issue in the past.
If the recoil I sent you isn't working I have more and I can send you another.
Yours is good, it sits deeper than this one. Actually don’t have a saw together for it yet :rolleyes:
Might do a little welding mod on this one.
 

davidwyby

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Thanks for this thread @Onan18.

Building some of these. Packing tape works to help the seals over the lip in a pinch.

Seal depth is important. Too shallow and may not get up on the lip on the crank. Too deep and might rub on the bearing. I used a woodworking vise to press mine into the oil pump and holder.

Any recommendations for how much to bump timing @Stump Shot ? Meteor piston, BGD, muffler mod. Thanks C6F3587A-6449-4068-B7D5-A27A2448944A.jpeg 5C1D6BF8-012B-4D8A-BCFD-D615A35A4598.jpeg

When you have a machine shop but not a case splitter and the case halves are glued together. :rolleyes:5EE99F7D-2966-4A53-A6D3-AFC6A81DDC62.jpeg
 
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davidwyby

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It runs! Pulled it and it fired on the first pull as it was time to leave to go the movies with the fam.

Ran into issues with intake block and gaskets but persevered.

I’ll go update my 266 build thread later.
 
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