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Husqvarna 272/Jonsered 670 Repair Thread

Discussion in 'Chainsaws' started by Onan18, Nov 9, 2017.

  1. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    Like with the 50/51/55 thread, this thread will document the repairs saws from this chassis. This platform has been long lived and some great saws were built on it. There were the Husqvarna 162/61/66/266/268/ and 272. On the Jonsered side there was the 625/630/ and 670. @afleetcommand and @Spike60 did a great info video on this topic, a "Saw College" that I will link. Anyone with any info to contribute please do so.

     
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  2. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    In for a rebuild is a Husqvarna 266. Local Tree Guy bought it at a pawn shop and it didn't run right, landed on my bench and the piston was scored. He elected to have it rebuilt, will be going back together as a 52mm 272 XP as that is the only cylinder still available for this chassis apart from the 48mm open port 61 cylinder.

    20171109_150146.jpg
    Didn't think to get any pictures before it was this far apart.

    There are a few changes that need to be made to run a 272 cylinder on a 266, I will go over those as we get to them.
     
  3. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_150224.jpg
    From where we were lets start by removing the throttle linkage. It just snaps into the plastic arm, use a screwdriver to pop it out and then twist and the other end will come out of the carb.

    20171109_150252.jpg
    On these older saws the front handle was held on with 8mm socket head screws.

    20171109_150404.jpg Get the handle out of the way.

    20171109_150426.jpg
    Clutch comes off with a 19mm socket, left hand threads.
     
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  4. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_150441.jpg
    The oil pump has a plastic shield washer to help keep debris out of the worm gear.

    20171109_150456.jpg
    Take off the washer and spin the worm out. There is a steel spacer hiding under the worm.

    20171109_150514.jpg
    A 3mm Allen key to remove the oil pump screws.

    20171109_150559.jpg
    And the pump lifts out.

    20171109_150620.jpg
    There is a thin o ring that seals the pump to the case, it is good practice to replace it every time the pump is off.
     
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  5. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_150623.jpg
    This is an older 266, it has the coarse threads for the clutch. Later saws have a more traditional fine thread.

    20171109_150730.jpg
    This pump has seen better days, still functions but I will advise the owner that it will be a good idea to replace it.

    20171109_150949.jpg
    At the tip of the screwdriver is a small X Ring, this seals the output of the pump to the oil channel in the bar pad.

    20171109_151005.jpg
    Oil hose and X Ring removed.
     
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  6. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_151036.jpg
    Remove the six A/V screws, 4mm Allen key.

    20171109_151151.jpg
    Disconnect the fuel line and the tank comes right off.

    20171109_151154.jpg
    Has a couple of broken A/V mounts, will be getting all new ones.
     
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  7. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_151242.jpg
    A ball end 4mm Allen is the best way to get the carb bolts out.

    20171109_151313.jpg
    Disconnect the choke lever.

    20171109_151319.jpg
    And the carb lifts out.

    20171109_151322.jpg
    Notice how the 266 intake block bolts to the cylinder, more on that later.
     
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  8. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_151358.jpg
    Cylinder bolts for this chassis are an odd size.

    20171109_151401.jpg
    Crack them in a X pattern.

    20171109_151612.jpg
    And off, shame, full circle big window 266 piston.

    20171109_151621.jpg
    Cylinder is ugly as well.
     
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  9. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_151815.jpg
    Pair of side cutters works well for removing the flywheel key.

    20171109_151840.jpg
    The older two piece ignition saws have a seal holder on the flywheel side.

    20171109_151958.jpg
    Off with you!

    20171109_152035.jpg
    Small screwdriver is my weapon of choice for removing piston pin clips.

    20171109_152220.jpg
    Piston off.
     
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  10. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_155540.jpg
    Seven case bolts.

    20171109_155545.jpg
    Don't forget the one at the back.

    20171109_155549.jpg
    And the dog bolts are case bolts as well.

    20171109_155803.jpg
    Three different length case bolts, don't mix them up!
     
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  11. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_155909.jpg
    Time to split.

    20171109_155957.jpg
    Halfway there.

    20171109_160037.jpg
    Crank out.

    20171109_160214.jpg
    Be sure to scrape all of the old gasket off.

    20171109_160558.jpg
    And thoroughly clean the cases.
     
  12. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_160644.jpg
    I will be getting a crank tool from @Mattyo but until then...

    20171109_160718.jpg
    Heat the bearing pocket up, how hot you ask?

    20171109_160921.jpg
    Hot enough for the bearing to fall out.

    20171109_161014.jpg
    New parts. :)
     
  13. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_161025.jpg
    I place the bearing on my index finger.

    20171109_161214.jpg
    And while the case is still NASA hot drop it in.

    20171109_161246.jpg
    Try to get the new bearings exactly where the old ones were.

    20171109_161714.jpg
    Both sides done.
     
  14. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_161847.jpg
    Put a little heat in the race.

    20171109_162006.jpg
    And the crank will drop in.

    20171109_162037.jpg
    Lay the new case gaskets on the locating pins.

    20171109_162248.jpg A little bit of heat in the other bearing and it slides together, run your screws back in.

    20171109_162820.jpg
    Together.
     
  15. Mattyo

    Mattyo Youtube speciawist GoldMember

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    Oh u r gonna love the tools ....when I get them of course :)
     
  16. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    Thanks Matt, this way works but it can be a little fidgety.
     
  17. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_163601.jpg
    A few of the hard parts after a bath.

    20171109_163639.jpg
    Put the X Ring on this pin, it is the output.

    20171109_163644.jpg
    Drop the oil hose back in.

    20171109_163647.jpg
    The new seal taps in from the back.
     
  18. dustinwilt68

    dustinwilt68 Wilt Built Work Saws

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    Looking good joe, I enjoyed and learned a lot from that video, may have to watch it again, spike has always been a wealth of knowledge when I needed help.
     
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  19. Mattyo

    Mattyo Youtube speciawist GoldMember

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    That's the problem with heat on the bearings....the bearing is now blue....which means it's lost its temper. Same problem happens when u use a grinder on chainsaw chains...
     
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  20. Onan18

    Onan18 OPE Sponsor GoldMember

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    20171109_163707.jpg
    Pry the old o ring off.

    20171109_163728.jpg
    An appropriate size socket...

    20171109_163817.jpg
    And out.
     
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