Husky 372xp tips and tricks - my first husky rebuild

[Brewz]

I am going to open up the tiny little slot on the muffler a bit and try and get in under the deflector to open up the hole out of the muffler body.

Let it breath a bit better and keep it a little cooler.

Then hit it with a coat of high temp black paint

 

[Brewz]

I have to say I am fairly impressed with the quality of the Husky

Being a Stihl boy since birth I have to say I am looking forward to kicking this thing up and seeing how it goes.
Its very light, the spring AV looks the goods and didnt need to be replaced like the Rubber Stihl ones.

I also like the on/off switch. Much harder to bump off than the stihl lever style.

I dont like how the fuel line is just relying on the OD of the line to seal from the tank.

I have been thinking of getting an 044/046 but I think I will expand that line of thought

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I could be wrong, but in my experience to this point, when the exhaust side of the piston is badly scored that is indicative of a burn down due to a lean condition. The exhaust side of the piston is most often the first part that begins to fail in that scenario as it is the hottest part of the piston. I really don't think that level of damage is caused simply by carbon buildup. The aluminum piston material got hot enough that it started to soften and melt, transfering piston material to the cylinder wall.

It's absolutely the best plan to replace the crank bearings and seals as opposed to not. I have a theory that worn but still operable crank bearings can open up a slight air gap with the seals, or cause the seals to fail all together. As I said, this is my theory and I would like to hear what other more experienced saw builders say on this topic. But make darned sure that intake boot is intact and pliable still. Also, check/replace fuel line, fuel filter, and fuel tank vent. A stopped up tank vent can lean a saw down as vacuum builds up in the tank while the engine is running, and then as fuel delivery in compromised, it will lean out.

 

[mdavlee]

If I replace seals I usually do bearings. Unless a oiler or something breaks and tears a seal they usually are leaking from play in the bearings. Those are just 6202 bearings so $8 each for good ones here.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Fuel line installation: If you buy a new fuel line (which I would highly recommend for this saw as old as it is) you will notice that they come cut at a sharp angle on each end, kind of spear shaped. Apply small amount of grease to the end you will be inserting into the tank and gently push the line in with a pair of needle nose pliers. You shouldn't have to squeeze the daylights pout of it to push it in. And take small increments at a time. If it doesn't want to go in this way, add a little more grease. You don't need alot, just a bit to allow it to slide through the opening. The fuel line hole in the tank has a little ridge in it that grips and seals the fuel line. That makes it very difficult at best to install the fuel line without a little bit of lube. I have done several fuel lines this way with zero problems..

 

[Brewz]

I have ordered new fuel line and filter but have not checked the tank vent.
I will look at that tomorrow.

I actually ordered 2 fuel lines as the impulse line seems to me made of the same fuel line.

I have sold 2 of my 3 066's and just made an offer on a well priced pristine 372.


I am hearing you on the lean condition killing the piston....... it makes sense when I read that.
Heat!

The top of the piston was dry and white, same as the spark plug.
I have checked the intake boot and it is very soft and supple with zero damage, cracks or holes, but I will triple check it.

The chain was on its last 5% and the bar was badly worn on one side.
Thinking about it, its likely with the chain and bar being stuffed, wouldn't drop RPM's and killed it with extended lean run.

 

[Brewz]

If I replace seals I usually do bearings. Unless a oiler or something breaks and tears a seal they usually are leaking from play in the bearings. Those are just 6202 bearings so $8 each for good ones here.

Yeah they will be $8 here too.

Its a small cost for big insurance which is why I split the case.

I was happy with how it came apart.

No clutch tool, I just stopped it up with rope and used a pin punch and hammer. 3 hits and it was off.
No flywheel removal tools. just a screwdriver behind the flywheel and 2 taps on the crank shaft with the nut fitted to protect the thread.
No case splitting tool. Just heated the case on one side around the bearing, held it with a glove on and tapped it apart with a nylon hammer hitting the shaft.

too easy!

 

[Mattyo]

how did you get the bearings off the crank?

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I think you are on the right track with the scenario surrounding the burn down.

I myself prefer to get the special tools in most cases if I can, but some ingenuity can certainly get the job done!

 

[Brewz]

I have bearing pullers to remove the bearings from the crank.
IF you ever find a super tight bearing and wind up a lot of pressure on the pullers, often a tap on the top of the bearing with a hammer will make it jump without heat.

The rest of it can be done with very little effort and no damage if you apply the right heat and force to the right area.

2 years rebuilding electric motors for a living taught me a lot!

 

[Brewz]

I use a flywheel removal tool for Stihl's
Its a wonderful thing!

 

[Tor R]

I have to say I am fairly impressed with the quality of the Husky

Being a Stihl boy since birth I have to say I am looking forward to kicking this thing up and seeing how it goes.
Its very light, the spring AV looks the goods and didnt need to be replaced like the Rubber Stihl ones.

I also like the on/off switch. Much harder to bump off than the stihl lever style.

I dont like how the fuel line is just relying on the OD of the line to seal from the tank.

I have been thinking of getting an 044/046 but I think I will expand that line of thought

if you like this 371 I am pretty sure you will like the rest of huskies pro saws, even 550 is workable.
Since you do full rebuild I doubt you will get into any trouble, the only thing you need to pay attention to is this silly little o-ring that you find on PTO side.
Matt have a great video about that issue.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I don't know if it is just chance or if it's a pattern, but so far the only flywheels that have been especially stubborn requiring the careful use of a 2-jawed puller have been on a pair of 394's I overhauled recently. One even required a bit of propane heat to the flywheel hub! Most times I just lay the saw on it's side, leave the nut on the shaft to protect the threads, and give it a whack with a large brass punch. Most pop right off first try for me with that method.

 

[Brewz]

if you like this 371 I am pretty sure you will like the rest of huskies pro saws, even 550 is workable.
Since you do full rebuild I doubt you will get into any trouble, the only thing you need to pay attention to is this silly little o-ring that you find on PTO side.
Matt have a great video about that issue.

Ahhhh yes, the O Ring

I found a tily little black squished up o ring behind the sleeve on the crank shaft.

Do I need to replace it or will a small smear of motoseal do the job?

 

[Brewz]

Is an older 372xp in great condition a saw worth picking up for $600 Aud?
About $480 USD

 

[beaglebriar]

I replaced the o ring on mine but I've heard some say not to worry about it. Personally I wouldn't feel right not replacing it. Peace of mind I guess.

 

[beaglebriar]

I'd pay that for a real nice one.

 

[Tor R]

Ahhhh yes, the O Ring

I found a tily little black squished up o ring behind the sleeve on the crank shaft.

Do I need to replace it or will a small smear of motoseal do the job?

if you go for o-ring you defently buy a new one, they are cheap.

 

[Mattyo]

I have done plenty of 372s without the ring. at this point, i don't feel comfortable not using though, just because I know about it.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Is an older 372xp in great condition a saw worth picking up for $600 Aud?
About $480 USD

I would say that's fair for one in good shape and ready to work.