Husky 372xp tips and tricks - my first husky rebuild

[Mattyo]

What is the go with the clutch removal tool?

Will I need one?

you need to watch my vids

make one like RED97 above

-Matt

 

[jmssaws]

I hit them with a hammer. Works great

 

[Moparmyway]

Brewz,
A smart guy that hacks up saws gave me some advice .................... 371 Meteor piston and unlimited coil.
Thanks @Definitive Dave (check your PM's Sir !) & @mdavlee !!

 

[Brewz]

Went and picked it up today.

Its actually a 1997 371 xp

Everything looks really good, piston is toast but the intake side of the cylinder is pristine.
Exhaust side looks better than the piston when I look through the spark plug hole, time will tell once I get the jug off.

Spark plug is dry and white. I recon its got really lean and hot.

Old mate gave me the slip from the local dealer and they quoted him $1150 to repair it with only $240 of that as labor.

If I can save the jug it will be a cheap fix for sure.

If the bearings are good, I will just replace the oil seals and check everything carefully for possible air leak causing the heat and lean running.
Will check fuel filter, fuel line and rebuild the carb too.

I am looking forward to fixing it up, bringing it back to life.









I'm sure this is nothing new for a lot of you but I am having fun learning and broadening my horizons beyond Stihl's

 

[Brewz]

Another question.

Will using a saw at higher altitude lean it out?
I am thinking if the air is thinner there will be less of it to mix with the fuel making it rich.

He uses it up at about 1000m (3000 feet) altitude.

 

[Mattyo]

pix of the inside of the cylinder? exhaust side? with that kind of scoring on the piston, I'd expect some serious scoring on the cylinder. OEM cylinders are not THAT expensive these days, so I'd consider just getting new. If you haven't cleaned up a cylinder before, the time it takes to do so, and the risk, might just mean you'd be better off with new.

BEFORE the cylinder comes off, you need a pressure test. this vid demo's on a 371 (and 200t)

find out why this saw leaned out. I think the altitude does make a difference, but thats some serious scoring there. also, higher altitude will be lower compression I think.

 

[mdavlee]

H

Another question.

Will using a saw at higher altitude lean it out?
I am thinking if the air is thinner there will be less of it to mix with the fuel making it rich.

He uses it up at about 1000m (3000 feet) altitude.

Higher elevation is richer. Less air density means more fuel in the chamber. 3% compression loss per 1000' from sea level.

 

[Brewz]

Great info folks, thankyou.

 

[Brewz]

The fella in the vid was wearing a HLS shirt but I cant find that tester on their website
Where do I get one?

 

[Brewz]

Ok..... found some on line and I dont see myself buying one soon.
Ouch!
If they are hundreds in the USA I will need to sell my house here in Aus.

 

[Mattyo]

you don't necessarily need the mitivac. ...you can even do it by sucking air through a tube (if you are really adventurous) .... its best to have a mitivac if you want to make sure it holds pressure and vac.

the mitivac silver kit I bought on ebay about $80 or so. yes, i'm the dude in the vid ....and I don't think hl supply carries a mitivac ...

there are other models on ebay that would probably work in the 30-40$ range.

a saw from that year, and with that level of usage could really stand to have its bearings changed. best to split the case, and tear her all the way down, clean, and new parts on up. you'll be surprised at how many parts it could actually use as you rebuild it, gaskets, filter, line, plug, bearings, seals, intake boot? etc. in the end its all worth it, but it is a job if you haven't done it before. a mitivac isn't the only special tool you'll need. a case splitter is a good idea as well, though you can make these.

 

[Mattyo]

 

[Mattyo]

end of this vid shows the making of a clutch tool

 

[Mattyo]

splitting a case, this is 262xp, but its basically same thing

47 min mark or so.

many different vids on how to split cases.... DON"T FORGET THE BOLTS!!! if you forget 1 bolt you will ruin the case!

 

[beaglebriar]

That saw looks to be in really nice condition for the year. I'm willing to bet that the PTO side bearing is out.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I'm with Mattyo, I would just go ahead and replace the crank bearings and seals. That saw is nearly 20 years old. It would be a shame to get the top end all squared away only to have a leaking crank seal burn her down again.. Or even a crank bearing failure occur a short time down the line despite the bearings feeling OK now. I don't know how much the bearings and seals cost you in Aus, but here I get OEM bearings and seals for less than $50. It's not a heck of alot more expense to add those to the rebuild but it's worth a ton in peace of mind.

Besides, with the saw completely disassembled, you can do a real nice job cleaning all of the individual parts in a parts wash tank and give this saw back to your friend not only running, but looking great too.

 

[Tor R]

I am having fun learning and broadening my horizons beyond Stihl's

congratz with a new project, and I kinda feel sorry for the Stihls now.......

Pull the jug and see how bad it look, you may be lucky and be able to sand it in good shape. 1997, depend how hard it has been used, I know I am kinda a weirdo, if they are old plus lots of dirt in crankcase I always swap bearings.

 

[Agrarian]

If it was already mentioned, I apologize, but you don't need a piston stop tool. Instead just put a foot of recoil rope in the cylinder with the piston slightly down from TDC. This is much easier on the top of the piston as it spreads the force around.

 

[Brewz]

I have done a few case split rebiulds so will do it to this one as well

 

[beaglebriar]

Let me know if your bearing prices are outrageous. I just picked up a bunch of nachi 6202's dirt cheap. If it's feasible I will ship you couple.