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Husky 350

cuinrearview

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Keep going. Have to to remove ALL of the transfer. You're gonna be at it a while with 500 grit. After it's gone hit the bore with red scotchbrite. Seriously though, do some searching here. All of the info in this thread has been covered elsewhere on this very site.
 

tallgrass_coyote

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Kit the carb, use a 372 intake clamp. New fuel line. Clean up the stock jug and get a meteor piston. I had a quad port 45mm hyway jug run ok, but no telling if the next one would. Stick with OEM. As D said, you get what you pay for with the Chinese shït. Don't forget to pressure and vac test after assembly or you could be right back here in a tank or two. The sandwich below the jug has all kinds of spots for air to enter, including the cylinder risers that aren't always flat.
To make sure I'm following, the jug is the cylinder, the sandwich is where the metal part of the crankcase meets the two plastic sides? I don't have specialty tools or even a compression tester. Was hoping to not tear down past the top end, but I get what your saying about air getting in. Might just throw a cheap Chinese top end and carb kit in it, increase my oil to fuel ratio, and see what happens. Best case scenario it runs. Worst case I paid $75 to learn a lot and am back in the same spot.

I worked that oem cylinder with some 150 and the plating is scored clean through. After reading a sampling the oil threads I'm convinced I should to go from 50:1 to 32:1, especially in this older saw. Wonder if that is what fried it.The last couple times Grandpa ran that saw was with my gas.
 

Sloughfoot

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Yeh, for it to do that with 50:1 it 'd have to be running long and hard on a hot day with a very dull chain. May not do it then.
 

tallgrass_coyote

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Yeh, for it to do that with 50:1 it 'd have to be running long and hard on a hot day with a very dull chain. May not do it then.
I don't let him work long, or in the heat. He stays on top of his chains.

Are you saying the top end rebuild may not fix the problem? Can you get the metal piece of the crankcase (riser?) off without splitting the clamshell?
 

tallgrass_coyote

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The 350 does not need to be split and is not a clamshell design per say. You’re can remove the flywheel, clutch, cylinder and pull the riser out with the crank.
Ok I'll go back through onan's thread and tear it down some more. Thanks. Life got real fukkin busy in a hurry around here
 

Sloughfoot

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May just do it again. You could rebuild the top end. Get it running and be ready to kill it if it takes off on you. With it running you could look for air leaks with soapy water, carb cleaner in all the usual spots.
Just putting rings in it may get it running well enough to look for air leaks.
 

Jusgunn3

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Ok I'll go back through onan's thread and tear it down some more. Thanks. Life got real fukkin busy in a hurry around here
Give me a shout if you need anything, I have tore down and built 4-5 recently with different parts and setups. I love them and have 3 of my own, about 2 to many haha
 
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