Grease Monkey Garage

[redneckhillbilly]

can you test fuel pressure with it running
TAC module not compatable with the pedal and throttle body.
is the throttle plate closing and opening properly.
did all 4 coils fail on the left bank.
does it clear up at WOT.
any hot leads going to ground somewhere (possibly in transmission) causing the grounds to be corrupted and throwing off other sensors.


I'm just shooting from the hip trying to throw stuff out there in hopes it helps someway.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

just pluged the scanner into my ls swapped squarebody and TPS is at 16.1% cold idle

 

[redline4]

Ed, have you done a tps reset? In this pic your tps position is at 11% at idle. Iirc it should be 0-2%. If it’s above 3% you loose idle control with the iac and the system will start to pull timing and fuel to try and hit the target idle rpms

I have. I'm using drive by wire. That results in different numbers because the throttle plate itself is the IAC.

There's even a failsafe built in that any issue with the pedal or throttle body causes a no start.
The pedal and throttle body are both on the Holley approved to use list.

No matter what, the AFR goes to 36 and stays.

Operation let's put an o2 sensor in the right bank is currently happening...

 

[redline4]

Proper welding attire?


Check.


Not pretty but will work...

 

[redline4]

One more random thought..
When I swapped from the fabricated intake to the stock intake, I gave zero fůckš to the injector locations because it really doesn't matter.
If it were an injector issue on just the left bank the chances of me putting the same 4 injectors back in on that bank have to be astronomically slim.

 

[redline4]

Well, this is fun.



My AFR is now in the ballpark considering I've done zero tune adjustments.
But..I śhīt you not, the exhaust from the left bank is cool.. right side hot.
Engine appears to have no misfires.
I'm thinking of doing what was mentioned and shotgun new plugs into it..

 

[Stump Shot]

Well, this is fun.

View attachment 466682

My AFR is now in the ballpark considering I've done zero tune adjustments.
But..I śhīt you not, the exhaust from the left bank is cool.. right side hot.
Engine appears to have no misfires.
I'm thinking of doing what was mentioned and shotgun new plugs into it..

If it's like a chainsaw a good piss rev or two will help sort itself out.

 

[redline4]

If it's like a chainsaw a good piss rev or two will help sort itself out.

Tried that.
Tried talking nice to it.
Tried talking mean to it.
Tried promising it good things
Tried promising it really bad things.
So far all have yielded the same results

 

[jacob j.]

Tried that.
Tried talking nice to it.
Tried talking mean to it.
Tried promising it good things
Tried promising it really bad things.
So far all have yielded the same results

There are a lot of humans out there that act the same way.

 

[Shane¹]

Well, this is fun.

View attachment 466682

My AFR is now in the ballpark considering I've done zero tune adjustments.
But..I śhīt you not, the exhaust from the left bank is cool.. right side hot.
Engine appears to have no misfires.
I'm thinking of doing what was mentioned and shotgun new plugs into it..

Swap stuff from one side to the other and see if anything makes a difference. Try plugs then coils then injectors until you narrow it down to what helped?

 

[redneckhillbilly]

I got my fingers crossed.

 

[Shane¹]

I got my fingers crossed.

Me too... Anxiously waiting for an all better

 

[redneckhillbilly]

IAC position 100% what does that mean, is it all the way open, or is it closed all the way?

It would be nice to see battey voltage up a little higher.

 

[redline4]

IAC position is at 100% because it is not used. Default value.

I swapped a different rail of coils I had onto the left bank. No change. I tested power and ground to the coils, verified all wires are in the correct connector location at the coil connector and the fuel injector connectors.
I pulled the valve cover off. All rockers moving when I roll the engine over.
I pulled all the plugs, found soot on the porcelain of #6 and #8 which then led me down the path of pulling that header off and revisiting it with the torch and ball peen hammer because it appeared to maybe be contacting the frame.
I will get some new plugs tomorrow because I don't feel like driving to town again today.
The voltage is normal. I am using the 07 alternator which is normally pulse width modulated. The way the Painless wiring harness I am using has you utilize that particular type they have you wiring in a resistor and diode. Anything above static battery voltage, which is usually 12.2-12.5 is charging. If the RPM is raised, the voltage will too. There was also a battery charger connected at the time as I was doing some stuff key on engine off. Most of the new vehicles it's not uncommon for them to essentially turn the alternator off when the battery charge is above a certain threshold.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

I was hoping she came to life for ya, hopefully some plugs get her there.

 

[stretch5881]

I swear, in the mid 70's they detuned and threw a bunch of hoses and sensors on engines. Worked great. Less power and mpg's. Fast forward, even more sensors and 6 miles of wire. What could go wrong?
I may be cynical, but I grew up in simpler times.

 

[nbbt]

Been a while since it's been used on my LS1 Goat from '04. I used it with a LM-1 wide. I didn't upgrade to the 3 version.
Green connector on the side is for WB input and . . .

 

[hacskaroly]

I swear, in the mid 70's they detuned and threw a bunch of hoses and sensors on engines. Worked great. Less power and mpg's. Fast forward, even more sensors and 6 miles of wire. What could go wrong?
I may be cynical, but I grew up in simpler times.

My 65 Mustang had a 200 straight 6, enough room for me to crawl between the engine and engine compartment, only a handful of wires. I miss that simplicity. It was good enough for me!