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Steve

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Anybody ever use this as a diff cover sealant?:


"Because gear oil has friction modifiers that break down normal RTV"

Gonna give it a try because I am adding 1 bottle ah friction modifier.

Ford 10.5" limited limited slip rebuild.

20250708-175436.jpg


20250708-180359.jpg


20250708-182734.jpg

20250708-191104.jpg


This is all I use anymore. It laughs at gear oil, trans fluid, coolant, anything really.

17520902725448349723841307473836.jpg
 

Yukon Stihl

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This is all I use anymore. It laughs at gear oil, trans fluid, coolant, anything really.

View attachment 464105
Same stuff I use
Use some Vasoline under the cap to keep it from curing if you don’t use it every day
You waste a bit to clear the Vasoline but a solid tube is a big waste
 

redline4

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Some lady trashed the back of her minivan on it the second day.
View attachment 464543

Be glad it's not one of the l.e.d. taillights on the new body style. They are just under a grand. And much more of a pain to install than 2 t15 screws.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Finally finished out a motorcraft 2100 carburetor adaptor.

This past winter, I tried to freestyle with a cordless drill, which was dumb.

Got a drill press, drill press clamps, some countersink bits and did it right.

The clifford chevy inline 6 intake is set up for a weber carb. I dont want no dumbasz weber on a 4wd wood truck.


The Brennans Garage carb adaptor is used for adapting a 2100 to fit a Rochester 2GC 2-barrel intake. It came with all the gaskets and was very close to what I needed.

Found an oem airbox for an isuzu 3.1L turbo diesel. I like these because they're all-metal, and flow good with the big resuable filter. Doesn't take any tools to open up, the 3 spring-steel latches.
20250731-212052.jpg


Anyhow center-punch pins accurately marked where I needed to drill pilot holes:
20250730-160904.jpg


Countersink bit:
20250730-163037.jpg


20250730-165218.jpg

Drill/tap 4 more holes and hole saw bit:
20250731-203110.jpg

20250731-140519.jpg

Everything lined up but did have to burr-grind a few spots for the larger 1.23 venturi 2100 carburetor:
20250731-204201.jpg

20250731-191156.jpg

20250731-191517.jpg
 
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redline4

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Finally finished out a motorcraft 2100 carburetor adaptor.

This past winter, I tried to freestyle with a cordless drill, which was dumb.

Got a drill press, drill press clamps, some countersink bits and did it right.

The clifford chevy inline 6 intake is set up for a weber carb. I dont want no dumbasz weber on a 4wd wood truck.


The Brennans Garage carb adaptor is used for adapting a 2100 to fit a Rochester 2GC 2-barrel intake. It came with all the gaskets and was very close to what I needed.

Found an oem airbox for an isuzu 3.1L turbo diesel. I like these because they're all-metal, and flow good with the big resuable filter. Doesn't take any tools to open up, the 3 spring-steel latches.
20250731-212052.jpg


Anyhow center-punch pins accurately marked where I needed to drill pilot holes:
20250730-160904.jpg


Countersink bit:
20250730-163037.jpg


20250730-165218.jpg

Drill/tap 4 more holes and hole saw bit:
20250731-203110.jpg

20250731-140519.jpg

Everything lined up but did have to burr-grind a few spots for the larger 1.23 venturi 2100 carburetor:
20250731-204201.jpg

20250731-191156.jpg

20250731-191517.jpg

I'm digging that air filter setup for what you are doing. Large, easy to service and can mount pretty much anywhere you want.
 

mainer_in_ak

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I'm digging that air filter setup for what you are doing. Large, easy to service and can mount pretty much anywhere you want.
Yep, and with the horrific wildfire smoke up here, and glacial river silt blowing all over plugs a filter up purdy quick.

Lotsa space under the 68 k20:

20250215-124433.jpg
 

redline4

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So after some time off on the car, I went back to it today.
Here's what I noticed..
If I key it on, my AFR will bounce around probably between 18 and 22, start the car, it continues that for about 10 seconds, drops to 14ish then straight to 35 and stays there.
If I shut it off for a few minutes it will repeat this.
If I restart it after a shorter duration it just sits at 35.
I ran to town, got some oxygen sensor extenders and tried that. No change. I tried all 3 sensors I have and all do the same thing.
Pulled out the steel shim type header gaskets and installed some graphite gaskets. No change.
On doing this, I noticed my left header was barely warm to the touch. That's the side with my sensor. Right side normally hot.

I'm tempted to pull all the Holley wiring and plop in a factory harness. Not sure it would react well with the different cam though.
I can't come up with anything that could be causing this in my base engine build (mechanically).

The Holley forum for this crap hasn't provided much help. The last anyone responded to me was to tell me I have a bad sensor. When I asked about having 3 of them I got no reply.

My wife suggested i just yank the 6.0 out of my 12 plow truck and dump it in as is with the oem wiring. Im tempted to do it other than it has a 6 speed so im still screwed on the transmission control.

At this point I've given up hope on actually driving this down the road this year.

I'm open to ideas or suggestions on this.
@Steve @Canadian farm boy

I really can't come up with an alternative route to go that still won't be a ton of money when I already have quite a bit that would essentially just get flushed by purging the Holley stuff.
I'll spend the money but I'm very gun shy right now not knowing it will actually make this thing go down the road...
 
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