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Bigmac

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Got the rear brakes redone! It’s been 14 years since they put them in, I must’ve done a little trick oor two to get things to work, back 14 years ago! had to take .100 off the brake brackets to get the 3/4 tone pads to clear, I think, I must have ran 1/2 pads before. Got it all done anyhowIMG_2874.jpegIMG_2878.jpegIMG_2875.jpeg

Done a little research, I think I’m going to swap in a 1972 c30 booster and see how the brakes work before I replace the master cylinder, I have heard mixed reviews on the C 30 master cylinder
 

Woodslasher

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Yesterday I replaced all the u joints in the Dodge's front driveshaft 'cause that CLACK CLACK CLACK noise it made in 4X mode was getting annoying, so it should be all squared off while I focus on the Yella truck for awhile. Of course the zerk fitting snapped off after I installed the driveshaft, so I got to drop it and install it again!
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Woodslasher

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Bit more progress, everything from the steering wheel to the pitman arm is done and (what's hopefully) the correct drag link end should show up tomorrow. Shock mounts are laid out, tomorrow if all goes well they should get cut out and welded on. Then it'll be on to installing a booster, m/c, a new proportioning valve, some new brake hoses, and a few new hard lines with a bleed-back valve worked in. I wish I could take credit for the shop and the fabricating but that is all the work of my talented and helpful neighbor. He's a retired welder that used to build 4x4's in the 70's and 80's, so all this retrofitting and modifying is right up his alley.
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Bit more progress, everything from the steering wheel to the pitman arm is done and (what's hopefully) the correct drag link end should show up tomorrow. Shock mounts are laid out, tomorrow if all goes well they should get cut out and welded on. Then it'll be on to installing a booster, m/c, a new proportioning valve, some new brake hoses, and a few new hard lines with a bleed-back valve worked in. I wish I could take credit for the shop and the fabricating but that is all the work of my talented and helpful neighbor. He's a retired welder that used to build 4x4's in the 70's and 80's, so all this retrofitting and modifying is right up his alley.
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That's a damn nice truck.
 

FergusonTO35

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Ok, so I have major rust on the undercarriage and bed mounts of my beloved 98 Ranger. It's still at the point I think it can be saved without welding. I'm willing to spend the time to grind and prep the metal properly. What sort of coating can I get to stop the rust and seal it? I have read POR 15 is really good. Any others that would be good? Would it be wise to put 3M undercoat over any of them?
 

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Ok, so I have major rust on the undercarriage and bed mounts of my beloved 98 Ranger. It's still at the point I think it can be saved without welding. I'm willing to spend the time to grind and prep the metal properly. What sort of coating can I get to stop the rust and seal it? I have read POR 15 is really good. Any others that would be good? Would it be wise to put 3M undercoat over any of them?


I have read that POR15 is excellent for what you have going on but when I looked it up to do my truck it was pretty expensive. May be kind of a pain in the ass too with the body and all the accessories still on the frame.

Regardless don't use undercoating. Moisture will get under it and make the corrosion worse.

Use your air hammer to knock all the heavy build up of loose rust and scale. Go to harbor freight and get a needle scaler to remove the light stuff and around curved parts. Would probably go with a spray on oil like fluid film? Heard some good things from the guys up north. It is a maintenance item though. You have to keep up with it because it will eventually wash off over time but I feel like the oil will creep into places paint won't since you are planning to do this with the truck fully assembled.

I just went ahead and had my frame blasted, primed and coated with a marine coating called Carbolene. Going on 6 years now and I'm very impressed with it.

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This is that same frame with the bed removed after 5 STL winters.

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FergusonTO35

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Great, thanks. I have no budget other than to buy the chemicals and tools and sure don't have time to do anything frame off. If I could even just arrest the decay for a few years until I can do it frame off that would be fine. When I bought the truck in 2004 I did undercoat the bottom sheet metal really well, and that has mostly held up. I guess I just never considered that the heavy frame and chassis members could get eaten away so badly.

I think it may be wise to start this project in the early spring, it doesn't seem smart to immediately expose my work to road salt. POR has kits for about 30 bux on Amazon, I guess I would get one of those to start.
 
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