- Local time
- 12:06 AM
- User ID
- 4859
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2017
- Messages
- 938
- Reaction score
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- Location
- Hatley, Wisconsin
Nice truck!I also liked the 70's era Fords. Wish I still had it, but in this state, you have to throw in the towel when the frame can't hold it up anymore.View attachment 374008
Years ago, my we went to a rod show in Springfield, MO. My wife had a hard time making me watch where I was driving. There was so many rust free cars and trucks down there that had long been extinct up here. I did a lot of drooling.
So Dodge door frames look like that in the states too...A few highlights from my Dodge adventures so far. For future reference, 298k is about the max life span for non-greasable u-joints and the truck might need a bit more than an alignment. The tie rod ends are..... loose. Very loose. I think if I tried I could pop some of the studs out of their sockets they're that loose. Also, if diff oil comes out in a fist-sized blob that stays intact until it hits the pan it may be past the recommended service interval.
View attachment 376243
Not just in the Great White North, that truck was used almost exclusively as a freeway commuter until it was parked 10-15 years ago. If'n that door can't be saved I've got a backup sitting in the bed of the truck.So Dodge door frames look like that in the states too...
I just thought it was our bush roads
My trusty 1998 Mazda 626 stick shift/four banger is finally leaking enough oil to where it's annoying so I'm going to reseal the oil pump, crankshaft seal, and oil pan and put a new timing belt in. Lotsa fun, hopefully good for another 340k miles.
Found a new Melling pump for only $25 plus shipping so I went ahead and ordered it. Replace it new and won't be blue! This is the type with the rotors concentric to the crankshaft snout, the housing is also the crank seal retainer and connects to the front of the oil pan. Do these require anything special to prime? My normal procedure is to pull the plugs and crank the engine until I can see oil is making it to the cams. I know some guys pack them with assembly lube or STP goop.
Have a friends 2013 Chevy Captiva with 66,000 miles, nice condition inside and out. Problem is 2.4 liter exotec is locked up. Trans in neutral and cannot turn with breaker bar. So try and rebuild it or just replace, I know loaded question, anyone tear one down or replace?View attachment 378414
I just put assembly lube in them. Melling has their own brand that works well and you can just get it at O'Reillys. Even gear oil will work just fine. Yup, pull the plugs and crank it till the oil light goes out. Make sure to unplug the crank sensor to disable the ignition and fuel injectors while priming or just jump the starter relay with the key off..
Have a friends 2013 Chevy Captiva with 66,000 miles, nice condition inside and out. Problem is 2.4 liter exotec is locked up. Trans in neutral and cannot turn with breaker bar. So try and rebuild it or just replace, I know loaded question, anyone tear one down or replace?View attachment 378414
Have a friends 2013 Chevy Captiva with 66,000 miles, nice condition inside and out. Problem is 2.4 liter exotec is locked up. Trans in neutral and cannot turn with breaker bar. So try and rebuild it or just replace, I know loaded question, anyone tear one down or replace?View attachment 378414
I have a couple projects to do first, but thanks for your knowledge.I forgot to mention, when pulling rod caps, be sure to mark them as they are fractured caps and need to go on only 1 way. They also orient in the engine 1 way too, there's a larger "flat" boss on the rod that faces the front of the engine.
If you need a parts list, let me know as the only way to get the piston kit # is from a bulletin.