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Steve

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Damn...... :(


Yup, going all out on this one though. Arp hardware. Studding the head. Felpro 1024 head gasket. Crank turned. Rods reconditioned.

Getting a knock when cold over 2k rpm. Once the oil thins a little you can rev it to the moon and it's quiet as can be. Started getting metal in the oil about 4000 miles ago. Found the pickup tube got clogged with scotch Brite from when I had to redo the head gasket. Put a new pick up in it and a pump for good measure and the noise almost dis appeared untill Saturday it was 12 degrees outside and it was extremely loud for the first mile or so. Got to work and looked down the oil cap hole and the oil is full of metal again.

Between me screwing up a few things in the last build and a possiblity of a bad block this build didn't go as planned. This engine only lasted 110k from the factory. It may have something going on in it we can't see?
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Yup, going all out on this one though. Arp hardware. Studding the head. Felpro 1024 head gasket. Crank turned. Rods reconditioned.

Getting a knock when cold over 2k rpm. Once the oil thins a little you can rev it to the moon and it's quiet as can be. Started getting metal in the oil about 4000 miles ago. Found the pickup tube got clogged with scotch Brite from when I had to redo the head gasket. Put a new pick up in it and a pump for good measure and the noise almost dis appeared untill Saturday it was 12 degrees outside and it was extremely loud for the first mile or so. Got to work and looked down the oil cap hole and the oil is full of metal again.

Between me screwing up a few things in the last build and a possiblity of a bad block this build didn't go as planned. This engine only lasted 110k from the factory. It may have something going on in it we can't see?

At least you know you have a problem. Last time I had to do a truck engine a second time was because of paranoia..... I had just rebuilt and swapped a tbi 5.7 in place of a 6.2diesel. I was sitting at a friends 66 station talking to him and noticed oil spraying out from under the truck. Killed the engine and checked the stick. No oil...... Dumped 4qt in and it started up. Spraying oil everywhere. Shut it down. Couldn't find the leak. Dumped a chit ton of oil into it and drove like hell back to my parents. I found the leak. A oil pressure switch had blown out. Replaced it but thought it didn't sound right. Pulled the engine that night and tore it down 100%. Didn't find a damn thing wrong or damaged........ Ocd strikes again. Sadly it wasn't the first time and wasn't the last..... Hell of a problem to have.

Rambling over.


Steven
 

Steve

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When I get this engine built and installed I'm going to tear down the one I just built and study it untill I find the culprit. Then I will repair what's wrong and reassemble for a spare.
 

stretch5881

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When I get this engine built and installed I'm going to tear down the one I just built and study it untill I find the culprit. Then I will repair what's wrong and reassemble for a spare.

That saves me the time of asking, "Where is the metal coming from?"
 

Moparmyway

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New fuel system, -8an from stem to stern, went from the 3/8 hose fitting at the tank to a -8 to 3/8 hose within 1/2 inch of the tank fitting. If it’s not big enough to feed the motor, then I’ll have to weld in a -8 bung.

Need one more fitting near the fuel tank, then it’s ready for a quick liquid purge, and FINALLY going to fire her up !!!

304C8AF0-AF38-47D4-A185-201460DD88E6.jpeg
 
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Moparmyway

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Made some progress on the axle and have all new seals, bearings, pads, rotors, calipers, etc on order or in hand. Should be like-new when I'm done.
View attachment 357363 View attachment 357364 View attachment 357365 View attachment 357366 View attachment 357367
With those manual hubs, are you considering installing a locking differential ? You’re 30 minutes away from swapping out the spiders for a Lock-Rite kit, no messing with the ring & pinion either.
 

Steve

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Got a call from the machine shop this morning.

Head needs 10 guides. Told him to do all 12.
All exhaust seats need replaced.
Valve job
Head surfaced

Having crank turned .010 under

Block is being decked, bored .030 over

Rods checked good and getting the new pistons pressed on.

$1400!
 

Woodslasher

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With those manual hubs, are you considering installing a locking differential ? You’re 30 minutes away from swapping out the spiders for a Lock-Rite kit, no messing with the ring & pinion either.
Ring and pinion are getting pulled, by all new bearings and seals I mean all new bearings and seals. I'm probably going to put a Chevy non-dually Dana 60 w/Posi in the rear, I hadn't considered a locking front but I kinda doubt I'll do that. Too much $ and I'm not planning on wheeling it hard, just mild off-road driving.
 

cgraham1

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Ring and pinion are getting pulled, by all new bearings and seals I mean all new bearings and seals. I'm probably going to put a Chevy non-dually Dana 60 w/Posi in the rear, I hadn't considered a locking front but I kinda doubt I'll do that. Too much $ and I'm not planning on wheeling it hard, just mild off-road driving.
You sure it’s a 60 and not a 14 bolt? Not many Chevys came with Dana 60 rears… 14 bolt is stronger anyways.
 

Woodslasher

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You sure it’s a 60 and not a 14 bolt? Not many Chevys came with Dana 60 rears… 14 bolt is stronger anyways.
Well, my neighbor said it's off of a Chevy and it's definitely a 60, it's not the first 60 I've seen under a 70's chevy so I'd say he's right.
 

cgraham1

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Well, my neighbor said it's off of a Chevy and it's definitely a 60, it's not the first 60 I've seen under a 70's chevy so I'd say he's right.
I think 2wd 3/4 tons up until ‘72 had Dana 60s. 4wds had Eatons, then ‘73-up were 14 bolts. Also some of the vans had Dana 60s.
 

Woodslasher

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I think 2wd 3/4 tons up until ‘72 had Dana 60s. 4wds had Eatons, then ‘73-up were 14 bolts. Also some of the vans had Dana 60s.
Makes sense, the Chebby 60's I've seen have all come out of early 70's 2wd trucks. I'm tempted to pick up a 70 or 80 rear just because, but the thought of pulling the Chevy's posi and putting it in my current rear end sounds lots easier and cheaper. Plus, Dana 60's are probably the most common rear axle ever so I should never have any problems getting parts for one.
 

Woodslasher

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Any grease monkeys on here have a Chevy 1/2 ton D44 front end? I've got a new set of Raybestos hubs (not the locking bits, the parts that the races press into and the hub splines engage) that I'd send you for the cost of shipping. Work deemed them obsolete so I saved them from the scrap pile, but I have no use for 'em.
 
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