Stevetheboatguy
mountain dew and ibuprofen please
- Local time
- 12:40 PM
- User ID
- 2591
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2017
- Messages
- 1,797
- Reaction score
- 8,400
- Location
- Nw IL
Damn......
Yup, going all out on this one though. Arp hardware. Studding the head. Felpro 1024 head gasket. Crank turned. Rods reconditioned.
Getting a knock when cold over 2k rpm. Once the oil thins a little you can rev it to the moon and it's quiet as can be. Started getting metal in the oil about 4000 miles ago. Found the pickup tube got clogged with scotch Brite from when I had to redo the head gasket. Put a new pick up in it and a pump for good measure and the noise almost dis appeared untill Saturday it was 12 degrees outside and it was extremely loud for the first mile or so. Got to work and looked down the oil cap hole and the oil is full of metal again.
Between me screwing up a few things in the last build and a possiblity of a bad block this build didn't go as planned. This engine only lasted 110k from the factory. It may have something going on in it we can't see?
When I get this engine built and installed I'm going to tear down the one I just built and study it untill I find the culprit. Then I will repair what's wrong and reassemble for a spare.
That saves me the time of asking, "Where is the metal coming from?"
So far things are going well.....Picked up a few parts today and I'm trying to hunt down a front axle, if all goes well I should have discs on all 4 corners before the year is out.
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With those manual hubs, are you considering installing a locking differential ? You’re 30 minutes away from swapping out the spiders for a Lock-Rite kit, no messing with the ring & pinion either.Made some progress on the axle and have all new seals, bearings, pads, rotors, calipers, etc on order or in hand. Should be like-new when I'm done.
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Ring and pinion are getting pulled, by all new bearings and seals I mean all new bearings and seals. I'm probably going to put a Chevy non-dually Dana 60 w/Posi in the rear, I hadn't considered a locking front but I kinda doubt I'll do that. Too much $ and I'm not planning on wheeling it hard, just mild off-road driving.With those manual hubs, are you considering installing a locking differential ? You’re 30 minutes away from swapping out the spiders for a Lock-Rite kit, no messing with the ring & pinion either.
You sure it’s a 60 and not a 14 bolt? Not many Chevys came with Dana 60 rears… 14 bolt is stronger anyways.Ring and pinion are getting pulled, by all new bearings and seals I mean all new bearings and seals. I'm probably going to put a Chevy non-dually Dana 60 w/Posi in the rear, I hadn't considered a locking front but I kinda doubt I'll do that. Too much $ and I'm not planning on wheeling it hard, just mild off-road driving.
Well, my neighbor said it's off of a Chevy and it's definitely a 60, it's not the first 60 I've seen under a 70's chevy so I'd say he's right.You sure it’s a 60 and not a 14 bolt? Not many Chevys came with Dana 60 rears… 14 bolt is stronger anyways.
I think 2wd 3/4 tons up until ‘72 had Dana 60s. 4wds had Eatons, then ‘73-up were 14 bolts. Also some of the vans had Dana 60s.Well, my neighbor said it's off of a Chevy and it's definitely a 60, it's not the first 60 I've seen under a 70's chevy so I'd say he's right.
Makes sense, the Chebby 60's I've seen have all come out of early 70's 2wd trucks. I'm tempted to pick up a 70 or 80 rear just because, but the thought of pulling the Chevy's posi and putting it in my current rear end sounds lots easier and cheaper. Plus, Dana 60's are probably the most common rear axle ever so I should never have any problems getting parts for one.I think 2wd 3/4 tons up until ‘72 had Dana 60s. 4wds had Eatons, then ‘73-up were 14 bolts. Also some of the vans had Dana 60s.