First chainsaw!

[jacob j.]

Or watch all of the Buckn' Billy tutorials. Every single minute of every single one of them.

He wouldn't know what to think if he did that.

 

[tps3443]

He wouldn't know what to think if he did that.

I have been watching those actually, before I bought the saw.

It will leak bar oil if it has oil in the tank. You need another saw to get the pinched bar out, A good ax, and some wedges. I reckon you read the oil threads. PPE including a bleed-out kit like Clottting agent, a Tourniiquet, An Israel combat bandage. Protect your hearing. You might think about a 16 inch bar and chain? Welcome and good luck to ya!

it hasn’t leaked anything. But I have not actually cut anything yet either. I have only ran it outside a couple times, I checked the blade was properly oiled. I adjusted the oiler just a smidge. Looks like it only has about 1/4 turn of total oiler rotation adjustment left or right. So I barely moved it to help oil the 20” bar. I saw a good oil mark on my concrete when holding the blade about 2” inches away and revving the saw. I saw a tiny bit of excess chain oil run off where the sprocket was, and wiped that up. It had been sitting inside all night, no bar oil leaks.

It shouldn’t leak right? I hope it doesn’t. That’s gonna drive me crazy. I like my stuff super clean and well kept.

 

[trooney]

I have been watching those actually, before I bought the saw.


it hasn’t leaked anything. But I have not actually cut anything yet either. I have only ran it outside a couple times, I checked the blade was properly oiled. I adjusted the oiler just a smidge. Looks like it only has about 1/4 turn of total oiler rotation adjustment left or right. So I barely moved it to help oil the 20” bar. I saw a good oil mark on my concrete when holding the blade about 2” inches away and revving the saw. I saw a tiny bit of excess chain oil run off where the sprocket was, and wiped that up. It had been sitting inside all night, no bar oil leaks.

It shouldn’t leak right? I hope it doesn’t. That’s gonna drive me crazy. I like my stuff super clean and well kept.

Dont worry about it, if it leaks you'll know it. Usually in the hotter weather but not always. I good thing to do is to crack the oil cap after using it to releive whatever pressure is in the tank.

 

[Loony661]

I have been watching those actually, before I bought the saw.


it hasn’t leaked anything. But I have not actually cut anything yet either. I have only ran it outside a couple times, I checked the blade was properly oiled. I adjusted the oiler just a smidge. Looks like it only has about 1/4 turn of total oiler rotation adjustment left or right. So I barely moved it to help oil the 20” bar. I saw a good oil mark on my concrete when holding the blade about 2” inches away and revving the saw. I saw a tiny bit of excess chain oil run off where the sprocket was, and wiped that up. It had been sitting inside all night, no bar oil leaks.

It shouldn’t leak right? I hope it doesn’t. That’s gonna drive me crazy. I like my stuff super clean and well kept.

The more you spin the chain without having saw dust and chips under the cover to absorb it, the more it will “leak” onto the floor or shelf, or wherever it’s sitting. Typically if you cut with it, it won’t leak any residual oil from under the cover, as it’s being absorbed by the wood particles.

 

[tps3443]

That makes sense! I’m going to start cutting with it soon. I’m taking a week off work anyways, and once I get some more gear, and some files, I’ll get out to the lot and begin cutting.

 

[Sloughfoot]

I have been watching those actually, before I bought the saw.


it hasn’t leaked anything. But I have not actually cut anything yet either. I have only ran it outside a couple times, I checked the blade was properly oiled. I adjusted the oiler just a smidge. Looks like it only has about 1/4 turn of total oiler rotation adjustment left or right. So I barely moved it to help oil the 20” bar. I saw a good oil mark on my concrete when holding the blade about 2” inches away and revving the saw. I saw a tiny bit of excess chain oil run off where the sprocket was, and wiped that up. It had been sitting inside all night, no bar oil leaks.

It shouldn’t leak right? I hope it doesn’t. That’s gonna drive me crazy. I like my stuff super clean and well kept.

You said blade.

 

[Sloughfoot]

He wouldn't know what to think if he did that.

He'd think going to Canada may not be a good idea.

 

[tps3443]

You said blade.

Sorry, I’m a chain saw noob 100%. I meant bar.

 

[hacskaroly]

It shouldn’t leak right? I hope it doesn’t.

Unfortunately all saws leak to some degree, however, when you are finished using it, take off the clutch cover, take off the bar and chain and give it a good wipe down. A lot of drippage comes from oil that is just sitting there and over time gravity pulls it down. After cleaning it, open the oil cap to relieve any pressure. Doing this will help prevent puddles. Where ever you store your saw, you might want some cardboard or a puppy pee-pad under it just to absorb oil that drops after you clean it and put it away. Cardboard and pads are cheap and easy to replace when needed.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Sorry, I’m a chain saw noob 100%. I meant bar.

100% yesterday, maybe. That's exactly the saw I'd get if I was after a new model 50cc.

 

[EFSM]

My advice?
As I told an older customer today when I sold him a trimmer, don't drive over it, and don't run straight gas in it. If you don't, it will last as long as you want to own it.
(I did sell him Red Armor oil )

 

[tps3443]

Can anyone tell me what size file I need for sharpening this chain? This is a pic of my chain box.

 

[EFSM]

It says 3/16 in the lower left hand corner.

 

[mrxlh]

3/16” or 4.8mm it’s on the chain box.

 

[tps3443]

Okay thanks everyone just checking, I think I can get it sharper than it is now honestly, and this is brand new chain. I’m thinking I’ll just get a round file that is 3/16, and maintain the same angle the blade already has.

 

[mrxlh]

Factory grind chain is rarely sharper than you can file it, or grind it. My round grind is much sharper than Oregon out of the box grind.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Okay thanks everyone just checking, I think I can get it sharper than it is now honestly, and this is brand new chain. I’m thinking I’ll just get a round file that is 3/16, and maintain the same angle the blade already has.

Flat file and depth gauge. You'll need both in short order. I like depth gauges that give you choices, like Westcoast Saw's.

 

[tps3443]

I picked up some files!! Still need a few more things.

Can I run a 0.325/0.50 chain on my current 20” bar? My current chain is 0.63. Not sure if the 0.50 is only for the lite bars? I’m picking up some extra chains next. Thanks everyone!

 

[mrxlh]

I picked up some files!! Still need a few more things.

Can I run a 0.325/0.50 chain on my current 20” bar? My current chain is 0.63. Not sure if the 0.50 is only for the lite bars? I’m picking up some extra chains next. Thanks everyone!

Will it fit? Yes, but it will be sloppy as all get out unless you run a tight chain, which isn’t recommended either. Early in a saw hoarders life bar gauge width is something you have to pick, as it keeps things much simpler. For my larger saws, I’m all 3/8 -.050 bars except for a 32” which is 3/8-.063 and a 36”-.404, smaller saws I’m .325-.050.

 

[Loony661]

I picked up some files!! Still need a few more things.

Great! Don’t back-drag the file across the tooth. Lift up and reset each stroke pushing forward. It may seem slow at first, but with practice you’ll get faster at it. Your files will last 5 times longer at least, if you don’t back-drag them.

Can I run a 0.325/0.50 chain on my current 20” bar? My current chain is 0.63. Not sure if the 0.50 is only for the lite bars? I’m picking up some extra chains next. Thanks everyone!

It’s important to keep the correct gauge chain with the correct gauge bar.