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Thanks for the response. I should clarify that I’m looking at cutting larger rounds into shorter pieces strictly from a drying perspective.If a round looks big and I don’t think I can bust it up easy I just roll it to the side and noodle it into easy pieces.
But I’m trying to get as much sale wood out of a tree as possible so I have to cut everything consistently
I don’t know that I quite want to go down 4” chunks for everything all the time, but I was going to cut some four, six, eight, 10 and 12 inch chunks out of the same log and let them dry for a year and see how they are. Im also planning on cutting a 20 inch chunk and splitting it to have as accurate a comparison as possible. I figured I would ask to see if anyone had experience with this first to tell me it won’t work or like you said, maybe it’ll have to be in 4” chunks.Split wood always dries fastest in my experience.
But if you cut them into 4” cookies I think you’d be about the same time as split 16”. which means more chainsaw time which is way more fun then splitter time
Thanks for the response. I should clarify that I’m looking at cutting larger rounds into shorter pieces strictly from a drying perspective.
Will an 8-10” round 20” in diameter dry as well as the same chunk cut 16-20” long and split into 4 pieces ? Again, it’s going in a boiler so I wouldn’t realistically split it more than 4 times. Maybe it’d dry better ?
Most of us have a pile of "uglies" which includes the short pieces and the twisted up, odd-ball stuff that don't stack. I don't think my uglies dry any quicker than the pretty stuff.I don’t know that I quite want to go down 4” chunks for everything all the time, but I was going to cut some four, six, eight, 10 and 12 inch chunks out of the same log and let them dry for a year and see how they are. Im also planning on cutting a 20 inch chunk and splitting it to have as accurate a comparison as possible. I figured I would ask to see if anyone had experience with this first to tell me it won’t work or like you said, maybe it’ll have to be in 4” chunks.
I like my chainsaw time, but my splitter time isn’t so bad either. It’s just one more activity I have to do and if I can cut it out, I will.
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I’ve given up on stacking all of it and just make a giant pile lol. The outside two rows all the way around are stacked so I can pile it higher but the rest is tossed on the pile with the skiddy. 22-25 cord a year is a lot to stackMost of us have a pile of "uglies" which includes the short pieces and the twisted up, odd-ball stuff that don't stack. I don't think my uglies dry any quicker than the pretty stuff.
When you said “sale wood” in an earlier post do you have a commercial operation or a sideline hobby sort of operation ?I find that will slow drying time more than anything else.
I stack all my wood (aside from the ugly stuff), I’ve never had any luck with heaping it to season, atleast in my climate/ conditions. In drier climates it might work better
WOW !! 100 cord goal !! That’s nuts ! Good luck !It’s varies depending how busy my other jobs are, but this year was still around 70-75 cord, I was sold out by first week of October, pushing hard because I’d like make over 100 next year but 65 hour weeks are killing that.
Not going to argue that stacking will provide a better and quicker dry. My pile is on concrete if that counts as off the groundI’ve just found stacking wood with good airflow makes for a great product, heaping wood even off the ground makes it better than green but not great (in my opinion).
This boiler will eat just about anything combustable I can fit through the door. I’ve tried a few things not real smiled upon and it couldn’t care less. It smokes more burning 6 month seasoned poplar than it does a rotten old Goodyear. Did that once to see what it’d do and it burnt surprisingly clean.Every customer I have used to buy from guys like you describe, everyone complained about wet wood.
But they have modern indoor air tight and catalytic stoves, not boilers.
Same here !! Sometimes I come across as a bit argumentative but I mean no harm. I’m just curious and I have very poor internet manners lolI’m in no way trying to argue or cause malice, just a workaholic who likes firewood sharing his experience.
Hey thanks ! I like what we’re doing but am always open to different things. Cutting as much labor out of the processes around here is the number one goal. The best way to cut out labor from burning wood is to let the LP man fill the tank and forget the wood lolYou have a very slick set up as it is, without going to a processor I don’t see how much better it can get!
Cutting rounds in shorter pieces will not increase the drying time. The quicker you split it, the faster it will dry. Just curious, you have a owb, why are you cutting your wood so short? Also is there no hardwood available in your area? My guess is that you would only burn about 10 cord of hardwood a year versus 25 cord of lesser quality wood.Does anyone cut larger rounds into shorter length pieces instead of cutting them into normal 16 to 20 inch pieces and splitting them? I’d much rather make a few more cuts with the saw while bucking then have to split everything and handle it yet again. The wood will be going to get in an outdoor boiler so large pieces are not an issue as long as they are dry-ish and I can handle them.
Do you mean cutting them in shorter pieces won’t decrease the drying time ?Cutting rounds in shorter pieces will not increase the drying time. The quicker you split it, the faster it will dry.
The first year I had the boiler I cut stuff to 36-40” pieces and hated it all winter. The big heavy chunks were a PITA to handle and I liked being able to load the stove crossways to keep the wood off the sidewalls. It seemed to burn the most efficient when I had smaller pieces in it as well.Just curious, you have a owb, why are you cutting your wood so short?
Lots of hardwood available here. We’ve been cleaning up ditches and field edges my whole life and used to pile and burn whatever Dad couldn’t get run through the stove in his basement. I figured I may as well burn it as well to make use of the wood we were already handling instead of leaving it to rot or burning it on giant piles to get rid of it.Also is there no hardwood available in your area? My guess is that you would only burn about 10 cord of hardwood a year versus 25 cord of lesser quality wood.
Gotcha, I was just saying that you would burn less wood by using a better quality of firewood. About 90% of trees on the property that I cut on are oak. So that what I cut.Do you mean cutting them in shorter pieces won’t decrease the drying time ?
The first year I had the boiler I cut stuff to 36-40” pieces and hated it all winter. The big heavy chunks were a PITA to handle and I liked being able to load the stove crossways to keep the wood off the sidewalls. It seemed to burn the most efficient when I had smaller pieces in it as well.
Lots of hardwood available here. We’ve been cleaning up ditches and field edges my whole life and used to pile and burn whatever Dad couldn’t get run through the stove in his basement. I figured I may as well burn it as well to make use of the wood we were already handling instead of leaving it to rot or burning it on giant piles to get rid of it.
The boiler is heating right at 10,000sq/ft between the house, farm shop and well shed. I’ll likely never be able to keep ahead of all the crappy fence line wood so it’s likely all this poor stove will ever see lol.
Pops and I cut a few large white oak and a few red oak trees a year but we’ll have the big chunks sawn into lumber to build things with and Pops will keep the tops and small stuff for his stove. Seems like a shame to chunk and burn such nice oak honestly lol.
Yeah I’m sure I’d go through half or less like you said. No arguments there !! If I had lots of oak to get rid of I’d absolutely burn that as well !!Gotcha, I was just saying that you would burn less wood by using a better quality of firewood. About 90% of trees on the property that I cut on are oak. So that what I cut.