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afleetcommand

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Be nice to close in on a better set of kit parts, but this is all AM, so OEM consistency can't be expected...:) But isn't that part of the challenge? Making stuff work? It is for this old fart...:) Having a better handle would be big for me as I use these creations as much as I can. I keep bending handles!
 

67L36Driver

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An 044 Carb is an easy swap.

I have a Walbro HD17A leftover from something or another. Throtttle bore is .807" dia. Farmertec carb is .749" dia.

Raise the WOT free speed it would.:Laie_22mini:

I'd have to swap the choke and throttle shafts to make the controls work. And, the metering chamber cover.
 

Stump Shot

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Be nice to close in on a better set of kit parts, but this is all AM, so OEM consistency can't be expected...:) But isn't that part of the challenge? Making stuff work? It is for this old fart...:) Having a better handle would be big for me as I use these creations as much as I can. I keep bending handles!


http://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-064-066-MS640-MS660-handlebar-p/h56660.htm

Have no experience with the 660 handles, I did however just put a new handle from HL Supply on an 036/MS360, and it was heavy built, made in Turkey and seemed proper all the way around. Maybe someone else has tried the 660 ones and can weigh in?
 

Czed

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I haven't done a 044 kit, but I've had good luck on the 660's just with checking first and breaking the edge on the "step" to the sealing surface if its sharp, then with a little oil it usually goes right through the seal with no strain or pain. Last two were rounded as delivered. I had warmed the case/bearing a little on the one in the video but doubt that had any effect. The first MS660 I built actually failed & the rubber rolled out, but the edge on that crank was knife sharp, so I started paying attention & rounding that edge. Also as with the Husqvarna 395's, the shop seal installation tool just puts support around the rubber sealing material, same with the Stihl MS660 seal install tool. They work fine, so I might turn a dedicated tool on the lathe to support the crank & seal as the Stihl shop tool, mount it to a base where I can set the case & crank on it for the press and just be done with it if folks keep handing me cases to assemble. To this point in time I have not had to use the sleeve method....but it too is a concept used by some successfully as well...:) Just be careful that it doesn't have an edge that can damage the seal when it is removed.

But the worst case is.....you have to yank the seal and put in an OEM anyway, so where is the risk in just trying to push that crank through? Love these kits for fun and games....so little monetary risk, so much to be learned & fun to be had...:)
Welcome I've always liked your and spikes youtube stuff i'm dave
 

Mastermind

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Air shipping would be expensive.
If anyone wanted to pre-order, we could have them shipped with our next sea order. I'll be making an order after the Chinese new year. You could choose which brand cylinder you like.

Bruce @Gentleman Let me know when you can nail down a price on the 660, 440, and 361 kits. I'd probably pre-order one of each.

Maybe a thread when the time is right?
 

Mastermind

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I haven't done a 044 kit, but I've had good luck on the 660's just with checking first and breaking the edge on the "step" to the sealing surface if its sharp, then with a little oil it usually goes right through the seal with no strain or pain. Last two were rounded as delivered. I had warmed the case/bearing a little on the one in the video but doubt that had any effect. The first MS660 I built actually failed & the rubber rolled out, but the edge on that crank was knife sharp, so I started paying attention & rounding that edge. Also as with the Husqvarna 395's, the shop seal installation tool just puts support around the rubber sealing material, same with the Stihl MS660 seal install tool. They work fine, so I might turn a dedicated tool on the lathe to support the crank & seal as the Stihl shop tool, mount it to a base where I can set the case & crank on it for the press and just be done with it if folks keep handing me cases to assemble. To this point in time I have not had to use the sleeve method....but it too is a concept used by some successfully as well...:) Just be careful that it doesn't have an edge that can damage the seal when it is removed.

But the worst case is.....you have to yank the seal and put in an OEM anyway, so where is the risk in just trying to push that crank through? Love these kits for fun and games....so little monetary risk, so much to be learned & fun to be had...:)


Welcome to OPE sir.

Glad to have you here.
 

CR888

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"Gentleman, post: 292025, member: 1"]Air shipping would be expensive.
If anyone wanted to pre-order, we could have them shipped with our next sea order. I'll be making an order after the Chinese new year. You could choose which brand cylinder you like.
You don't get much 'choice' with the kits through EBay. This is a thoughtful idea from our Gentleman. Hybrids with 460 jugs, Cross performance jugs.... I kinda just want one of these kits emptied on my coffee table just to play with. Better than poor TV and crosswords. With many folks buying these we should when possible support our site sponsors who do what's required to keep the lights on here on OPE.
 

67L36Driver

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Walbro HD17A top, Farmertec 361 offering bottom.
7cddc68b99a0e72960609eda9c71324b.jpg

The cover machine screws have different pitch and length.

Metering lever spring is 1/8" longer free length. Lots more preload on the needle valve.[emoji15]
72ba37d72b2fbee35df5ec00e738788b.jpg

Reassembled the Farmertec with the shorter spring.

After we get it running we will try swapping choke and throttle shafts to use the larger bore Walbro.
 
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