FarmerTec 660 "Kit" - What's the latest on quality?

[Jason628]

Just noticed something troubling. Compare image 1 with #2 and let me know what you figure out lol.

 

[Nutball]

I had that problem occasionally with servo arms and other stuff from China.

 

[Jason628]

Daggummit

 

[Jason628]

Anybody know what the pitch is for the cylinder screws? I think it is m5x1.0
Tried Google and couldn't find it.

 

[finasteride]

ms660 cylinder screws - stihl part # 9022 371 1350 Spline screw IS-M6x25 . Specs on that are M6x1.0x25 class 12.9. Don't recommend buying cheap screws. I've heard stories of the cheap screws snapping while being torqued down and when the saw is in use. The stihl screws being class 12.9 aren't going to snap on you. Class 12.9 has a tensile strength of 170,000 psi .

 

[Jason628]

ms660 cylinder screws - stihl part # 9022 371 1350 Spline screw IS-M6x25 . Specs on that are M6x1.0x25 class 12.9. Don't recommend buying cheap screws. I've heard stories of the cheap screws snapping while being torqued down and when the saw is in use. The stihl screws being class 12.9 aren't going to snap on you. Class 12.9 has a tensile strength of 170,000 psi .

Well I have an m6x1.0 tap and it is too big to thread into one of the other tapped holes. I also have a m5x.9 and that threads in partially but, definitely the wrong thread pitch and I dont have an m5x1.0 in my set to try. Idk... I'll go play around in the bolt bin at the hardware store to confirm what size it is. I did see according to stihl it is supposed to use an m6. I also remember seeing something about the 064 using an m5. The first kit saw I built actually did bust the cylinder screws but, I was thinking maybe it was just a random thing or I didn't get them tight enough or too tight or something. Second saw I built I used the screws that came with the kit and put lock tite on and torqued to 11ft lbs but, it has yet to get any run time on it so, too early to tell if they are going to snap or not.

 

[Nutball]

Thats m6, m5 would be like 4.8mm. The tap will be on the big side, but it may also be bigger than what FT used, but probably not. Im sure you know this already, but just go a little at a time, back it out, a little more, back it out, ect. Clean out the chips too. A lot of people think you tap it in one go, but a couple turns in it gets tight and can break the smaller taps.

 

[Jason628]

Thats m6, m5 would be like 4.8mm. The tap will be on the big side, but it may also be bigger than what FT used, but probably not. Im sure you know this already, but just go a little at a time, back it out, a little more, back it out, ect. Clean out the chips too. A lot of people think you tap it in one go, but a couple turns in it gets tight and can break the smaller taps.

I've tapped alot of holes. Haha. I just had to tap the head on my car because, the factory used too small of studs for the exhaust manifold and they started pulling out. I don't know what the engineers were thinking. We have this 30lb cast iron exhaust manifold with a turbo hmm... six 8mm bolts oughta hold it.
The tap I have is from harbor freight so probably not the best quality. I couldn't get it to turn into one of the other holes without it starting to remove material. I'll see if I can find a better one hopefully, a little smaller... I don't want to crank down on the screw and have it pull out the threads and have to time sert it or tap to a larger size.

 

[Nutball]

6.10mm on my tap from home depot.

 

[Jason628]

6.10mm on my tap from home depot.

Yeah I'll check napa and see what they have. Last tap I bought from them was pretty good quality and cut threads like a hot knife through butter. Let someone borrow it and it never came back lol.

 

[gurwald]

standard m5 is 0.8 pitch, standard m6 is 1.0 I have never seen a screw with coarser than standard pitch. m6 you tap with 5 mm and m5 with 4.2

If you can make anything out of it, its in swedish but...
First side is metric and metric fine threads, with pitch "P" and the drill size for taping "borr".

 

[Jason628]

Yeah I'll take a look around and see what I can find. Google pulled up a bunch of m5x1 taps and dies so it does exist it's just not very common I think. I'll probably just get both size taps and tap some test holes to see what the best fitment would be. I think a better quality tap would probably get me closer. Everything I've used those hf taps on seems kinda on the loose side and .43mm difference seems like alot to me.

 

[Jason628]

Ordered two on Amazon. M5.5x1 and m6x1. One of em has gotta work haha

 

[Jason628]

Finally got my taps in. The 6mm one is actually 6mm and threads into the existing holes. So... lesson learned. Do not buy hf taps haha

 

[SpaceBus]

I take it one has be a near machinist to get these Chinese saws to work properly. The more I read about these clones, the less inclined I am to fiddle with them. I barely have enough time as it is. Been on here a lot this week waiting on parts.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

The clone saws are for a hobbyist, any saw repair is some what time consuming. If time is a concern these tools are a hands off item.
Im not an arborist or a pro logger ,but I enjoy "fiddling " around with machines and haven't had any major problems with them, even in the hands of the novice.
Owning one certainly gives you a different perspective on the build quality of the other major saw manufacturers.

 

[SpaceBus]

The clone saws are for a hobbyist, any saw repair is some what time consuming. If time is a concern these tools are a hands off item.
Im not an arborist or a pro logger ,but I enjoy "fiddling " around with machines and haven't had any major problems with them, even in the hands of the novice.
Owning one certainly gives you a different perspective on the build quality of the other major saw manufacturers.

What kind of tools would one need to own? I think I have a tap and die kit in my old tool box.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I really haven't used anything exotic yet to assemble or reassemble a saw, the only time I've used a tap was on an old beat up OEM saw.
Even assembled the 660 case halves by heating the case and putting the bearings and crank in the freezer for a few hours.
A nice T handle T27 wrench is worth its weight in gold but honestly a quality scrench will work also.
Unless the part is defective (see warranty or return) or you accidentally over torque the bolt there shouldn't be a need for a tap and die set.

 

[Jason628]

What kind of tools would one need to own? I think I have a tap and die kit in my old tool box.

I enjoy putting them together because it's kinda like building models or playing with lego except, you have a neat chainsaw when you are done. This is my third 660 I'm building and the first time I've ran into an untapped hole. Usually you have to modify the chain tensioner to work and clean up the chamfers on the ports. As far as assembly goes for tools I would say you need a dremel with burr and sanding bits, a vernier caliper and feeler gauges for centering crank. I have a micrometer and a gauge I use for that. I use a puller to install the crank. I don't use the hot cold method because, it goes together easily with the puller. You can use the hot cold method you just have to quickly assemble it and it has to be perfect the first time or you will need the puller to finish putting it together. You need a degree wheel if you plan on checking port timing. You need .030 solder and a caliper or micrometer for checking squish. A torque wrench is a good thing to have as well for the flywheel and cylinder screws. I drive the seals in with a socket and hammer. Could buy the special tool but, it works. A vacuum/pressure pump is handy for checking if you have leaks. I have the stihl adapter for the carb side and I use a piece of inner tube to seal off the exhaust. You can seal off the carb side with a plug or something and use the pulse line to do your pressure check if you dont want to buy the adapter. It's kind of a toss up if you will run into an issue with a missing piece. So far I've had a buffer missing and the chain brake detent. Not really a big deal as the parts are cheap and can be sourced in the US so it may cost you a few more $ but, you'll get the part you need in 3-7 days instead of a month or longer. I probably have $120 wrapped up in saw specific tools that I didn't already have. It's a good hobby and a lot cheaper than my other hobbies. I like that I can sit on my couch and watch TV and assemble it on my coffee table.

 

[Jason628]

So I bought a hyway annular buffer to replace the one that didn't come in the kit. I had an issue getting a screw to thread into it and then it was pretty tight but, I got it about halfway in and then it pulled the threads out. I looked down inside it and it was full of rubber. I was able to get it out and it still had some threads left so I got it to tighten down but, I'll order another one at some point and replace it. I decided to teach my son about electricity and shocked myself at the same time haha. Had him touch the plug and then I spun the flywheel over by hand not realizing his foot was touching mine.