Dirty Wood

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

I bought some of the triple chrome plated Oregon semi-chisel 2 years ago to try in dirty conditions and I really dislike using it. I’ve tried different sharpening angles and depth gauge heights, and I just can not get it to perform. I just tried it again the other day on a couple logs and the only way it would cut was dogged in - and that’s in green Red Oak!

In your opinion, what has been the best 3/8 chain for dirty wood?

 

[davidwyby]

In your opinion, what has been the best 3/8 chain for dirty wood?

Stihl RM hands down.

 

[Hoser]

I cut truck loads of skidded wood into firewood when I don’t have a bush to work in. Cutting smart like loony661 mentions goes a long way. I buy Stihl RS by the box so that’s my go to. If I get a really muddy load I’ll pick up a few loops of RM after I let the rain hit it for awhile

 

[Loony661]

I'm looking at a chainsaw mounted debarker to use on dirty logs at the band mill.

If you get one, let us know what you think of it. I’d be interested in hearing your review on it.

 

[Loony661]

In your opinion, what has been the best 3/8 chain for dirty wood?

Stihl RM hands down.

Stihl RM is the best cutting semi-chisel around. That being said, I rarely use it anymore. Still have a few loops around for when I absolutely need them. I buy Oregon EXL by the 100’ roll so that’s my chain I use for all tasks. New chains are used on my felling saws, and once they’ve been rocked, or found barb wire, they get ground and put on the bucking saws.

 

[Mastermind]

If you get one, let us know what you think of it. I’d be interested in hearing your review on it.

I'm not allowed to buy anything until after Christmas. Glenda's orders. LOL

But, I'll be getting one soon.

 

[Loony661]

I'm not allowed to buy anything until after Christmas. Glenda's orders. LOL

But, I'll be getting one soon.

Well, we’ll still be here lol
Best not to rock the boat!

 

[Woodslasher]

I have acquired a few chipper/semi-chisel type chains in buckets, I tried a 24" one on my 562 once and it was pretty darn slow cutting. But, I used it bucking dirty wood and then I loaned the saw out for a few days it still cut just as fast? slow? as it did initially and I didn't have to grind off 1/4 of the cutter when I got it back. Maybe not the coolest chain, but it is durable.

 

[Duce]

I'm not allowed to buy anything until after Christmas. Glenda's orders. LOL

But, I'll be getting one soon.

I have seen several 50cc saws toasted from using a log wizard.

 

[Stump Shot]

Stihl RM hands down.

I would have agreed, until I tried Stihl RS by accident one time and was amazed.

 

[Squareground3691]

.404 Semi - Fachisel for the dirty work ,

 

[Loony661]

I would have agreed, until I tried Stihl RS by accident one time and was amazed.

For dirty wood though? That’s what David was responding to. I would otherwise agree that RS is better than RM in all other ways.

 

[davidwyby]

For dirty wood though? That’s what David was responding to. I would otherwise agree that RS is better than RM in all other ways.

RS is significantly more durable than Oregon. Part of it I think is the offset grind on the grinder…less delicate working corner. I’ll have to post pics.

- but a lot of it I think is better metals.

I always ran Oregon because I got it 2 loops for 1 from Madsen’s. Now I buy once used never sharpened stihl chain off eBay. It will be a while before I need to buy any more chain.

I suspect the RS and some smart cutting would be the best balance between fast and durable.

I have one 32” loop of RM that has cut several burned trees and done some bucking…never have sharpened it. Almost afraid to…when I do you can bet I will make sure to copy the factory grind.

 

[Squareground3691]

RS is significantly more durable than Oregon. Part of it I think is the offset grind on the grinder…less delicate working corner. I’ll have to post pics.

- but a lot of it I think is better metals.

I always ran Oregon because I got it 2 loops for 1 from Madsen’s. Now I buy once used never sharpened stihl chain off eBay. It will be a while before I need to buy any more chain.

I suspect the RS and some smart cutting would be the best balance between fast and durable.

I have one 32” loop of RM that has cut several burned trees and done some bucking…never have sharpened it. Almost afraid to…when I do you can bet I will make sure to copy the factory grind.

I always found Stihl cutters , were tempered harder than most others, definitely a durable factor.

 

[Loony661]

RS is significantly more durable than Oregon. Part of it I think is the offset grind on the grinder…less delicate working corner. I’ll have to post pics.

- but a lot of it I think is better metals.

I always ran Oregon because I got it 2 loops for 1 from Madsen’s. Now I buy once used never sharpened stihl chain off eBay. It will be a while before I need to buy any more chain.

I suspect the RS and some smart cutting would be the best balance between fast and durable.

I have one 32” loop of RM that has cut several burned trees and done some bucking…never have sharpened it. Almost afraid to…when I do you can bet I will make sure to copy the factory grind.

I always found Stihl cutters , were tempered harder than most others, definitely a durable factor.

I agree with you both. A roll of Oregon os nearly half the price of a roll of Stihl RS. I used to run RSK exclusively, until the dealer couldn’t get it anymore.

 

[Stump Shot]

For dirty wood though? That’s what David was responding to. I would otherwise agree that RS is better than RM in all other ways.

Yes, years ago I was getting wood from land clearing guys that was moved with earth moving equipment and dirty all over. I was happy to make two cuts in progression. So, I would get a pile of saws set and ready to go and change saw when the chain got dull. I tried semi, M-triple plated, you name it. I bought a couple loops of Stihl RS and somehow installed a loop on one of the saws. when I started in, I was admiring my luck with how far I was able to cut. Turned out when I went to sharpen that I realized I had square ground on. So, I touched it up with a goofy file and tried again, same experience near three times all the other chains I had.
Once I started using square ground more and more, I came to the realization that just about everything that I read/heard was just about the opposite when it came to real life cutting situations that a fella encounters. This of course being work grinds, not race grinds. That's a different deal altogether, which @dall taught me a lot about.

 

[Loony661]

Yes, years ago I was getting wood from land clearing guys that was moved with earth moving equipment and dirty all over. I was happy to make two cuts in progression. So, I would get a pile of saws set and ready to go and change saw when the chain got dull. I tried semi, M-triple plated, you name it. I bought a couple loops of Stihl RS and somehow installed a loop on one of the saws. when I started in, I was admiring my luck with how far I was able to cut. Turned out when I went to sharpen that I realized I had square ground on. So, I touched it up with a goofy file and tried again, same experience near three times all the other chains I had.
Once I started using square ground more and more, I came to the realization that just about everything that I read/heard was just about the opposite when it came to real life cutting situations that a fella encounters. This of course being work grinds, not race grinds. That's a different deal altogether, which @dall taught me a lot about.

Awesome, thank you. You have me thinking about trying RS again - been a couple years.

 

[Junk Meister]

I'm not allowed to buy anything until after Christmas. Glenda's orders. LOL

But, I'll be getting one soon.

Just use your Rainy Day money you have stashed under LIP STICK that was collected from Piggy Rentals...
Jest tryin' tuh Help.

 

[Junk Meister]

I have a rail road bridge on a spur lie more or less in my backyard. Many years a go I grabbed a Homy XL 12? was going to gut some logs that had been pulled out of the high water pile under the bridge. I gave up on the idea real fast. RR burned the Pile years later. The sand was impregnated and was dry on the bark/surface but it would fall into the cut. Like I said it was many years ago and I am sure I would do things differently nowadays IF I HAD TO. I still cut trees/logs that have been dozed or Hoed out and a Windshield ice scraper with brush does wonders. I usually have a single bit axe head with a 1" square tube 12" long welded to the side of the head where the wood handle used to go. Some of the dirt is rich and sand free and some is brown fill sand... I do most like Tooney and the rest of ya'll. It works for me.

 

[davidwyby]

To clarify :

RM = round filed semi chisel - slow and and most durable

RS = round filed full chisel. Faster but the working corner is unsupported.

RSK - full chisel square filed/ground aka @chiselbit. Working corner is well supported and with a stock grind holds up quite well. I have never tried it in 3/8" but in .404 it is amazing. If one has a lot of dirty wood to cut, simply going .404 helps a lot.

See those earplugs? Does anyone know where to get them?