Cracked transfer, What can i do?

[Brewz]

If you look at the crack real close you can see a divit where something got pulled downward through the uppers .Looks maybe like part of a main bearing needle possibly.

The crank and bearing are fine.
I am not sure what went through it, the cylinder was off and it had been left to sit for many years.

 

[Brewz]

Looking at the picture it appears that the transfer bridge has actually shifted a touch at the crack.

Would it be worth removing the bridges from both the left and right transfers totally?

Yes it has shifted down ever so slightly. This is my main concern.

 

[spencerpaving]

Grind them out...you might be surprised

 

[Brewz]

Grind them out...you might be surprised

I think I will.
Nothing to lose.

I can do a comparison with the complete cylinder and see which one cuts best

 

[Brewz]

Ha ha after the way the after market cylinder went in Jason's tests, I might just get one of them!

 

[Brewz]

Ok, so how much of the bridge do I remove?

 

[Stump Shot]

I would think as much as it would look like it would not break off from vibration and such. Maybe round the ends off a bit. I kinda think you are in uncharted territory here. Just going to do what you think is best and give it a try. Who knows it might be the next best new thing. Remember, it was already broken before you tried to fix it.

 

[huskihl]

Chainsaw Jim cut the hell out of the lowers on a 372xp against all advice. Turned it into a decent runner by thinking outside the box.

 

[Nitehawk55]

If it were me and the saw was in decent shape I would find a good used or put an AM (Hyway) and Caber rings ....but that's just me .

 

[Brewz]

I have an idea floating in my head.
I might have a grind and just see how it goes.

 

[Brewz]

First up I plan on trying to repair it
I think the slight misalignment issue to it being forced down a couple thou by a bur inside groove made by the damaging object.

Plan is to just slowly grind out the damaged part of the bridge and see if the bridge will spring back up into place.
If it will I can fill the small groove with some aluminium devcon so it seals on the ring.

I recon I can make it work

I can then take to this cylinder with a grinder to port it and keep the other one I have as a stock standard spare

 

[drf256]

The problem isn't only the crack, it's the fact that the plated sides of the crack are incongruent. I can't tell if one side is depressed under the bore or is lifted into the bore.

I'd cut it out, 75% of the middle, and leave some on both sides of the bridge so you have it there. Use it as an opportunity to shape the tunnels now that they are open. Make them flow more towards the intake wall.

Please post pics of what the tunnels look like internally. It's something we rarely see and may teach us all something.

It may run just fine. You could easily JB weld both exhaust sides of the tunnels and reshape as well. You can reduce volume back to original that way.

 

[smokey7]

I think it would be best to just cut it out. I don't think a cracked piece in a heating and cooling motor will go well. I know I'd always wonder what it was doing. So like some said (doc) cut out centers leaving tabs on ends and run it.

 

[Brewz]

It may run just fine. You could easily JB weld both exhaust sides of the tunnels and reshape as well. You can reduce volume back to original that way.

That was the Idea I had but wanted to spend some time staring at the transfers to work out how first.
I could add devcon to select places in the transfer and shape it to play with direction and angle.

I just ground it out around the crack and it straitened up a bit but I am not happy with it, and as said, whats it going to do when it heats up?

Out they come!

 

[Brewz]

The problem isn't only the crack, it's the fact that the plated sides of the crack are incongruent. I can't tell if one side is depressed under the bore or is lifted into the bore.

The main part of the bridge is pushed into the transfer channel, away from the piston.

Here it is now that I have released the pressure on the crack

 

[drf256]

IDK

I'd grind that out a bit more, then heat it with a propane torch. See if it warps under heat.

You may be just fine with JB weld on that one.

 

[Stump Shot]

Keep us posted!

 

[Brewz]

Ok I will try that.

It should be savable.
If it doesn't move with heat, I will drill little holes at different angles to anchor the putty for a firm hold.
Actually from this point, I will use a pointed bit to get more of the crack ground out with less of the metal being removed.
Aim will be to make a very strong join with the putty.
I will be using Type F devcon. I use it to bed rifles and its hard.

 

[Brewz]

I am doing this for 2 reasons.

Its a really nice KS 064 cylinder that I think is worth the effort.
I just like a challenge.

Easy option would be to bin it and buy a $99 AM replacement.
I really think that this cylinder can be brought back if done properly.

 

[mdavlee]

It could be welded and plated again if you really wanted to save it. That would be at the cost of a new one over here.