haha, I'm not that keen.It could be welded and plated again if you really wanted to save it. That would be at the cost of a new one over here.
Have you tried just a bit of pressure behind the bridge to see if it will pop back into alignment as you go?
I doubt it would have ever caused a problem. Nothing rides on that part of the cylinder.
Thank you for bringing that up, but I'd say decent is an understatement. That saw made great gains considering I didn't raise the transfers or exhaust, and the mistake of the giant freeport gap. LolChainsaw Jim cut the hell out of the lowers on a 372xp against all advice. Turned it into a decent runner by thinking outside the box.
The main part of the bridge is pushed into the transfer channel, away from the piston.
Here it is now that I have released the pressure on the crack
View attachment 25764
yesIs a 064 cylinder still available?
You don't want the channel you ground into it to be smaller at the bottom like you have it. That will kill your velocity. Either make the channel even or wider at the bottom.
haha, I'm not that keen.
God knows where I would get it done here anyway.
Hi folks
I have a really nice KS Stihl 064 cylinder here that has had the spark plug thread repaired.
The thread repair is good, but whoever did it left a chunk of something hard in the motor and when they fired it up it jammed between the piston and the transfer bridge.
It totaled the piston and cracked the transfer bridge.
View attachment 25658
I was planning on porting a cylinder but figure if this one can be saved and made to run well somehow, I will use it.
What would people recommend?
Shame its on the exhaust side
I have been told it can be ground out
That stuff works amazingly well for small stuff. Like he said it's gotta be super clean though.As long as there is enough ring support I think you're fine. How is the intake at that part of the bridge?
If you clean it very well and leave a small space between the bridges, I bet you could use aluminum brazing on that. The capillary action will pull it into the crack space. It's the "weld aluminum with a propane torch" crap they sell at car shows. Its available on amazon from Hobart.
It melts @ 700*F IIRC. So enough to withstand cylinder heat, but not enough to warp jug or pop the plating.
I plan on trying it to modify 026 ports.