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Another chainsaw dyno...

MustangMike

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You absolutely should.

You really think it would be much different than the 390?
 

Woodpecker

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Really think the dyno is going to be a stay at home machine.
Understandable... in that case @Definitive Dave maybe run some of the saws fellas are interested in in your list of goodies for sail... ported 880... hint... hint:naughty2:
 

NightRogue

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Just a stock one, the graph compared it to a Stock 395 and it was pretty interesting:View attachment 253746
395 wasnt tuned right?
I've got both models, 288 is really a one of kind machine. But a stock 395 can't be that bad

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ranchdadmike

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You really think it would be much different than the 390?

Maybe? Is a 10mm 044 that different than a 12mm 044, or 440 or 441... I mean what’s really the point between brands and models anyway? Might as well just pick one each of 50, 60, 70, 80, 90cc etc and dyno them then joe can quit
 
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Bigmac

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395 wasnt tuned right?
I've got both models, 288 is really a one of kind machine. But a stock 395 can't be that bad

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The dyno have been super interesting to perceived power, low end torque seems to play a bigger factor into feel of power, especially below 6k. Doesn’t seem to make sense. Most forms of motor sports you want your torque to peak at your lowest usable rpm and hp to peak near the highest. I have been recently been talking with a friend about this subject. Another buddy was beating another bike that had another 20hp , but there power at 7k was swapped and he had 5 more lbs of torque there, the peakier motor lost even though it hard considerablely more torque and hp at 9500, almost 20 hp and 10 lbs of torque, the torque peak and hp peaked at 9500, looked impressive on the dyno, and it dose run hard, but the torque under peak, seems to be more consistent, and more forgiving.
 

Deets066

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The dyno have been super interesting to perceived power, low end torque seems to play a bigger factor into feel of power, especially below 6k. Doesn’t seem to make sense. Most forms of motor sports you want your torque to peak at your lowest usable rpm and hp to peak near the highest. I have been recently been talking with a friend about this subject. Another buddy was beating another bike that had another 20hp , but there power at 7k was swapped and he had 5 more lbs of torque there, the peakier motor lost even though it hard considerablely more torque and hp at 9500, almost 20 hp and 10 lbs of torque, the torque peak and hp peaked at 9500, looked impressive on the dyno, and it dose run hard, but the torque under peak, seems to be more consistent, and more forgiving.
I can see how that’s beneficial, but do you think it translates directly to the saw world?
 

cuinrearview

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I'd even like to see some more basic testing, like different air filters. Do the winter "screen" filters help? Are the AM pleated filters as good as OEM? How much better does Max Flow flow?
This weekend I will have an 034S there with screened and flocked filters.
 

MustangMike

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I would love to see some mod testing...
Start with a bone stock saw and test.
Change the intake and test.
Back to stock and do an exhaust mod and test.

Just what mod produces what performance gains... Higher RPM, More Torque, Etc..

The problem is there are so many variables, the order you make the changes, etc.
 

Sawrain

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I can see how that’s beneficial, but do you think it translates directly to the saw world?

Possibly in that some power deliveries can be harder to utilise and operator skill will come into play more and more as you push the envelope and narrow your operating range.

However I don’t particularly like the aspect of automotive comparisons in that they generally have no option to but to operate over a wide rpm range, I just don’t feel chainsaws need to be at that level flexibility in terms of power delivery.

It’s still easy to look at a bike/car dyno, plot the rpm drop between gears and calculate the average horsepower you will have at your disposal, as you are going to traverse that rpm range every time if going for max acceleration, what would the chainsaw comparison be?
 
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Bigmac

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I can see how that’s beneficial, but do you think it translates directly to the saw world?
Honestly I don’t know. I do think there could be a factor where it’s relevant, if the torque peak and hp peak are at cutting rpm and you transition down or the dogs bit in the rpms will drop, if it’s enough to drop the rpm 2k will the saw fall on its face and bog? vs a saw that has a lower torque peak, that saw will not bog when the rpms drop, it will keep pulling and then gain back rpm as load decreases. If torque peak is at cutting rpm, dose the make for a chain speed saw, that dose not like to set on the dogs, let alone be leaned on? I am curious, And it seems like saws with more low end power have the unstoppable feel, may not be faster but that “feel” is a sense of power. Just trying to understand these 395’s, I know it’s not testing issues, but it odd that a saw that we’ll know for handling a long bar only has 7 hp, it would seem that your old hybrid should be able own a 42” bar in and wood with 10hp, is that true or is there something with the power delivery that makes a difference?
 

huskyboy

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The longer the bar, the harder the wood or more aggressive the chain you run on a saw the more the rpms drop as the load increases. This pulls some saws out of there peak power range. They tend to not recover as well when stalled or when starting in a cut. The heavier rotating mass has to help as well with some of the larger saws in theory.
 
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