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Adirondackstihl

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Here we go guys, let's try this again without all the bullsnort.

DefinitiveDave sent me some stuff to do some stuff with. Let's see what kinda stuff I ended up with....

Gonna post pics and take my time here to allow time for questions & answers.
 

Adirondackstihl

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Freshly powdered cases.



This area here where the oil pump mounts needs to be masked off and kept a machined surface. Otherwise issues will arise further on down the assembly line.....
I worked around it, but had some filing to do on the worm gear.

 

Adirondackstihl

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I'm not sure why STIHL can't match the case halves?
Not a big deal when doing a stock a rebuild, but when reducing clearance by 1mm all around, things can get tight. Some have had good luck without having to clearance the cases here. I myself am included. But we're not taking any chances here and we might as well just get it over with since the cases are split.




http://s174.photobucket.com/user/st...CF4E3827-3F0C-4B20-861C-52D788B97E3F.jpg.html

http://s174.photobucket.com/user/st...CF4E3827-3F0C-4B20-861C-52D788B97E3F.jpg.html
 

Adirondackstihl

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Now we gotta install the bearings. If you remember from the previous thread, I had some slop in the PTO bearing seat.

First step, we need to mount the oiler.
This creates a positive stop for the PTO side bearing. I use an old oiler as they get exposed to higher than average temperatures when hearing the cases.



 

huskihl

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I'm late, but I'm here too.

Any chance Stihl did that (cases mismatched) for a reason? I noticed it on the 066 I did as well. I guess all the brainstorming in the world and we'd never know if someone got the right answer.
 

Adirondackstihl

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So to solve the bearing seat slop, I decided to use Loctite 620. Which is the high temp version of the 609 retaining compound I've used in the past on post press bindery equipment. This chit is tough!!
I hate to say it, but I believe that PTO bearing is now permanately installed ;)

I heat the cases with MAPP as does Treemonkey. Check out his video in the other board. If you get em warm enough, the bearings drop right in.

Takes some practice & experience to know how much heat is enough. Don't over do it.

 

Adirondackstihl

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The bearing quickly absorbs the heat from the magnesium case. So while the bearing is hot, I drop the crank in. A series of light taps with a brass hammer is usually all it takes to send it home.

Heat the other case half and repeat. This time I'll use the case bolts to pull the other half onto the crank. Making sure to "walk" around the bolts in a sequence ....only slightly turning them one at a time. No more than 1/8 turn each bolt until the cases are mated.





PS......Don't forget your case gasket!!

I typically don't use a sealant on my case gaskets, but the mating surfaces had been media-blasted. So in this case, I used Permatex 51813 / Loctite 518
 

Mastermind

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I'm late, but I'm here too.

Any chance Stihl did that (cases mismatched) for a reason? I noticed it on the 066 I did as well. I guess all the brainstorming in the world and we'd never know if someone got the right answer.

It's about releasing from the mold. Notice how they are made.......you'll see what I mean.
 

huskihl

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It's about releasing from the mold. Notice how they are made.......you'll see what I mean.
Ahh. I was just wondering. It's weird how I live in the town where probably 50 - 80% of the US's fire hydrants, brake drums, and manhole castings are produced and I have no idea how they're made
 
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