394 or 395 which do you prefer?

[angelo c]

They're monster saws the 394/395, I consider them more a 100cc class saw than a 90cc class saws. I wonder what the future holds for an upgraded 395xp? AT, layed back angle cylinder, new improved AV, new master control? Its a shame the market is so small for this size saw, it seems like a generation passes before something new comes out. Husky have the knowledge to really make a big improvement in this model when they decide to do so. Not that there is anything wrong with the 395xp......with todays tech it could be so much better. I want 2 C a 595xp with an AT system that has settings (modes) for short bar, long bar and milling.

That "generation " passed over on the 661....oh and hold the AT on my Next Gen 395 please.

 

[angelo c]

Only issue I have with these saws is that they are freakin' huge. Here's a 385 next to a 395. That's a big difference for a few more cc's.

View attachment 7676

Sometimes a few extra CCs makes all the difference in the world....just ask Mrs Graghm1..

 

[jmssaws]

395 is nearly 10cc more than a 385.

 

[mdavlee]

395 is nearly 10cc more than a 385.

With a way better oiler and clutch. Crank big end is the same on them. I can't remember if rod length was the same or not. I dismantled a 390 crank that had a bad big end once.

 

[foragefarmer]

Same case, no difference. The cranks have a different end for the flywheel side, that's about it for differences on the bottoms end.

Use NGK plugs, the Bosch plugs crack the porcelain up inside the plug and will short out there when hot. The spark is enough to keep the saw running but not enough to restart. Once it cools down the crack tightens up and it starts fine.

I've switched to all NGK plugs in huskys.

I'm a fan of NGK but my 394 did have a Bosch plug in it. So I went to the parts store this morning a got an NGK For it. Then I gave it the Pepsi challenge and cut a 16' slab of poplar with it and shut it down.



I would say it was thoroughly heat soaked. Then I left it for a while. Came back put it on start hit the decomp. and gave it a pull nothing, second pull it popped, third it fired and ran fine. Long may it last.

Still going to idle it to get excess heat out between cuts and before shutting it down.

 

[mdavlee]

Interesting to see if that helps.

 

[jmssaws]

My 395 only likes champion plugs. I know there frowned apon.

 

[Four Paws]

My 395 only likes champion plugs. I know there frowned apon.

I run champion plugs exclusively in my Shindaiwa saws - they are OEM spec. They run well and start reliably.

 

[jmssaws]

My 395 won't start with any other plug

 

[srcarr52]

I'm a fan of NGK but my 394 did have a Bosch plug in it. So I went to the parts store this morning a got an NGK For it. Then I gave it the Pepsi challenge and cut a 16' slab of poplar with it and shut it down.

I would say it was thoroughly heat soaked. Then I left it for a while. Came back put it on start hit the decomp. and gave it a pull nothing, second pull it popped, third it fired and ran fine. Long may it last.

Still going to idle it to get excess heat out between cuts and before shutting it down.

Good leg work, the proof is in the pudding!

 

[foragefarmer]

Good leg work, the proof is in the pudding!

I will reserve judgement for a future date but it was good first indication. I am pretty sure this is the saw I recently tried to order an NGK for but they were out of stock and I bought the Bosch as second preference.

 

[mdavlee]

If you want to try denso I have the stuff in my eBay history

 

[psuiewalsh]

Need a primer carb instead of choke.

If both are stock- I like the 394 better. It has a wide torque band. Modded then the 395 becomes a beast.

The intake boot design on the 395 is better for the long term as the intake blocks on the 394 have a tendency to crack- usually around the impulse channel.

I've built every combination of these saws possible including ones with 372 X-torq carbs, machined out squish bands with 2100 pistons, full-circle cranks, etc.

You can convert the 394 over to external impulse with the X-torq carb and bypass the problems of the intake block (including the hot re-start issues).

How do you mount the boot to a 394 cylinder?

 

[mdavlee]

Need a primer carb instead of choke.

How do you mount the boot to a 394 cylinder?

He may be just bypassing the internal impulse to keep heat from that side of the carb.

 

[pro94lt]

That's a tough one. It's crazy how they look the same but have such a different powerband. I've got a 394 with a 36 and 3/8 8 pin rim. The 395 xpw wears a 42 and 3/8 7 rim. Id probably take the 395 just because it's newer

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

I've never had the hot restart issues. But then again I've never milled with one. But of the ones I've built for a short bar fun saw the 395xp but for a blocking long bar saw I preferred the 394xp. But then again it could be all in how they got built. Lol.

 

[jmssaws]

I don't notice much difference in them.

There both fast with any length bar.

I love stihl saws but I'll always have my big huskys, I get 390's and 372's but there for selling.

 

[jmssaws]

I've seen some of the 94's you built Carl and they look strong, there both a saw that loves porting even though a 394 is the only saw I've ever used that I could live with stock. Really good saws.

I build and own 066's and occasionally still cut timber but I only cut down with my 395.

 

[jacob j.]

Need a primer carb instead of choke.

How do you mount the boot to a 394 cylinder?

You don't- you drill a small hole in one of the transfer tunnels and use a brass impulse tube (like one from a Jonsered 2094/2095) and then route an impulse (ala 395). I've done three of them (the last one was two or three years ago). Of course the 395 cylinder conversion is a good option too.

 

[jacob j.]

He may be just bypassing the internal impulse to keep heat from that side of the carb.

I do it to bypass a cracked intake block usually. You can keep using a cracked intake block if you go to external impulse.