1988 Ford F-150 Resto Thread!

[Steve]

Once the sleeve is at the desired depth you snip the installation lip and tear the lip off with some pliers. Sometime you don't need to remove the lip but in this instance you do because the main bearing will be in the way. Clean up the overuse of 518 with some acetone and you have a repaired shaft ready to go back into service.

Oh, and be careful. Paper thin stainless steel is like a razor blade and it's hard to tell 518 from bodily fluids...

 

[Steve]

Stepped outside for a nice sunset.

 

[Mastermind]

Nice work my man.

 

[Steve]

So this is as far as we'll get tonight fellas. Need to pick up some plastigauge tomorrow to double check the bearing clearance. Wrapped her up good!


But there is a twist! I got a late model front axle that is going on the truck too! It will have a bigger braking system as well as better hubs. The current axle on the truck is from a 14 month build window and it set up like the old rangers and bronco II s where with the goofy slide off lockouts. This truck has never drove well. It's a handful to keep on the road. Hit a bump and you may wind up in the other lane! I have literally replaced everything on this truck and nothing has made it better. So, I figured this is why they went to this set up midway through 1988. So we will soon find out!

 

[Woodslasher]

So this is as far as we'll get tonight fellas. Need to pick up some plastigauge tomorrow to double check the bearing clearance. Wrapped her up good!


But there is a twist! I got a late model front axle that is going on the truck too! It will have a bigger braking system as well as better hubs. The current axle on the truck is from a 14 month build window and it set up like the old rangers and bronco II s where with the goofy slide off lockouts. This truck has never drove well. It's a handful to keep on the road. Hit a bump and you may wind up in the other lane! I have literally replaced everything on this truck and nothing has made it better. So, I figured this is why they went to this set up midway through 1988. So we will soon find out!

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Eeeewwww! A TTB front end! Y'all need a straight axle, that little bitty front end isn't gonna stand up to a turbo-ed inline 6!

 

[Steve]

Eeeewwww! A TTB front end! Y'all need a straight axle, that little bitty front end isn't gonna stand up to a turbo-ed inline 6!

Don't know why there is so much hate for ttb. They ride real nice and handle better on the road. If you set them up right and for got dang sake rotate the tires, they are superior for most applications. Not going on the Rubicon or doing Baja so it will be just fine.

 

[Woodslasher]

Don't know why there is so much hate for ttb. They ride real nice and handle better on the road. If you set them up right and for got dang sake rotate the tires, they are superior for most applications. Not going on the Rubicon or doing Baja so it will be just fine.

I'm not sure why there's a ton of hate either, but I've never fiddled with TTB and am just a big fan of a nice, normal Dana 44/60 combo.

 

[Steve]

I'm not sure why there's a ton of hate either, but I've never fiddled with TTB and am just a big fan of a nice, normal Dana 44/60 combo.

I think it's because like a lot of things, nobody keeps up with the maintenance. Get the alignment checked regularly and replace worn parts.

It's also like all the tricked out jeeps running around with big winches on the front. It's something to brag about mostly. Been there eight years and still has the factory spin on the cable.


The main plus side to a strait axle is load capacity. And i'm not putting a plow on this thing ever!

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

The main plus side to a strait axle is load capacity. And i'm not putting a plow on this thing ever!

Well Duh. Never a plow...

 

[Steve]

Well Duh. Never a plow...

Well no, all 6.4 trucks blow!

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Well no, all 6.4 trucks blow!

 

[Steve]

Crank is in!

 

[timg]

Crank is in!


View attachment 309628

Are ya happy with the machine work and Plasti gage results on the mains?? Thx for sharing Steve.
You like that Cummins tools engine stand?? Looks beefy.

 

[Steve]

Time to fit the piston rings. This has to be my least favorite part of engine building because it is so time consuming. I stick the ring in the cylinder then use the piston to push it square into the bore. I stop after the skirts go past the deck. That way I know the piston is square in the bore. Remove the piston and check the ring end gap. Nope, too tight! Pull the ring out and I put a file in the vice and widen the ring gap. Push it back square in the bore and when it measures out then it's on to the next one. Had to file all but half the oil rings!

 

[Steve]

Are ya happy with the machine work and Plasti gage results on the mains?? Thx for sharing Steve.
You like that Cummins tools engine stand?? Looks beefy.

Super happy with the machine work. Been using this shop for 20 years! The bearings all measured at the top of spec at .0015". I can get .001" under rods but then I'll be underspec.

That engine stand I bought for my first engine job in 2004! Cummins tools was a early harbor freight so to say. The stand is beefy but the casters are junk. Had a new stand on order for this build but it became back ordered till mid December. . So I cancelled that!

 

[Mastermind]

Super happy with the machine work. Been using this shop for 20 years! The bearings all measured at the top of spec at .0015". I can get .001" under rods but then I'll be underspec.

That engine stand I bought for my first engine job in 2004! Cummins tools was a early harbor freight so to say. The stand is beefy but the casters are junk. Had a new stand on order for this build but it became back ordered till mid December. . So I cancelled that!

.0015" is what I shoot for too.

 

[Steve]

As I fit the rings I place them in order so I don't get them all mixed up. Usually the go to for ring end gaps are 180° apart and not on a thrust surface. This is a pretty specific arrangement. I will install the bearing in the rod then mount it in a vice for ring installation. I work my way from the bottom and install the top ring last. Then lube and clock the ring gaps and install the compressor.

 

[Steve]

Before installation in the bore the bearings get a good helping of assembly lube. I position the crank at BDC for the cylinder I'm installing so I don't have to worry about damaging a journal with a rod bolt. Once the piston is on the deck I square up the compressor and then tap the piston in with a hammer handle. Push it down till the bearing contacts the crank, install the rod cap and torque to spec. Then repeat the entire process 5 more times!

 

[Steve]

.0015" is what I shoot for too.

I would really like them at the tight end of spec of .0008" since these are known bearing eaters. Maybe get a few more miles out of it!

 

[Sagebrush33]

With the assembly lubes my mentor taught me to use white lithium. Not saying others are bad. His reasoning to me was at times, for some of the race motors he built, his builds would sometimes sit for months before being installed and fired up. Some were even back up race engines at the drags. The lithium would stay put while some others would bleed down into the pan.

Just sharing.