1988 Ford F-150 Resto Thread!

[timg]

Dumb question for you Steve. But why do you have the rod bearing with the oil hole in the rod cap?? Aren't the cap side bearings solid??
Not being a wise guy here my man.

 

[Steve]

With the assembly lubes my mentor taught me to use white lithium. Not saying others are bad. His reasoning to me was at times, for some of the race motors he built, his builds would sometimes sit for months before being installed and fired up. Some were even back up race engines at the drags. The lithium would stay put while some others would bleed down into the pan.

Just sharing.

That is what I have been taught if the engine is going to sit a while before installation too. The cam manufacturer recommended this specific lube for the cam lobes so I said f-it! I'm using it on the crank too!

 

[Steve]

Dumb question for you Steve. But why do you have the rod bearing with the oil hole in the rod cap?? Aren't the cap side bearings solid??
Not being a wise guy here my man.

These rods have oil squirters on them to lube the cylinder walls and camshaft so they need a hole in them for that. The rod bearings are the same top and bottom for easier manufacturing reasons. Now the mains are channeled uppers and solid lowers like you are thinking.

 

[timg]

Copy, So it n a sense they have idiot proofed the rod bearings. Thx

 

[Steve]

Copy, So it n a sense they have idiot proofed the rod bearings. Thx

So now you're calling me an idiot? Damn Tim, I thought we were friends...

 

[Sagebrush33]

So now you're calling me an idiot? Damn Tim, I thought we were friends...

A year ago a friend of mine, after a bit of ball bustin blurted out to me, " I used to like you."
Good times.....

 

[timg]

Hey, c'mon now, Steve proofed and idiot proofed, datz two different colors. I'm hitting it. I'll play catch up later.

 

[Steve]

Hey, c'mon now, Steve proofed and idiot proofed, datz two different colors. I'm hitting it. I'll play catch up later.

Steve proofed? Is that a special kind of idiot? Did we all not learn anything this week?

#lovewinseverytime




Night night fellas!

 

[Sagebrush33]

#lovewinseverytime

Be kind?

 

[Sagebrush33]

Night John boy......

 

[timg]

Hey buddy, you plan on using those new Christmas lights you bought on the F150 as a yard ornament. Don't be slacking off now Mr. Steve.

 

[Steve]

Hey buddy, you plan on using those new Christmas lights you bought on the F150 as a yard ornament. Don't be slacking off now Mr. Steve.

Get off me Tim!

Shooting with my daughter right now!

 

[timg]

Well that's excusable.
Christmas shopping in September, very questionable.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[Steve]

Well that's excusable.
Christmas shopping in September, very questionable.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Don't judge me. I hear from credible sources you are still decorated and waiting for the Easter Bunny...

 

[Steve]

Ok, so since Tim is so impatient with my progress...


Last evening was a productive one. Got the cam spacer, thrust plate, and gear pressed onto the cam. I use a 7/16" bolt and bearing race installer to pull the cam gear on similar to a power steering pulley. Once the cam is assembled and lubed up it is slid into the block. The last 1" is tricky because you have to slide it into 4 bearings while lining up the timing marks and meshing the gears. Then it's 2 bolts and the cam is installed. Then it's the timing cover and front crank seal. After the timing cover is on I douse the fiber gear with engine oil that way I'm not fighting dripping oil while I install the cover gasket.

 

[Steve]

Next is the standard volume oil pump and pickup tube. Now we are ready for the oil pan installation. After a quick rub down with acetone, I apply rtv to any flange mating surfaces to keep the oil where it belongs. Then the gasket is played down. I will also put some rtv in any sharp bends or areas that I feel may be a leak prone area.

 

[Steve]

Once the oil pan is placed on the gasket the torque plates are layed on the flange and brand new hardware on the new oil pan. The ford's of theirs era where bad for pans rusting through so anytime it's easy to replace the pan, you do it! Once it's torqued down, the now completed short block is turned right side up and it's time to close up the top. More acetone to remove all traces of oil from the deck and a new head gasket is layed on the dowels. Followed by a nice, rebuilt head.

 

[Steve]

After 3 passes with the torque wrench over the 14 head bolts brand spanking new pushrods and rocker arms are installed to officially make this a complete long block. That was as far as I got last night.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

@Steve RTV!!?? But but but but you're just a lifetime mechanic, don't you know too much can squelch out and jam up the everything and ruin the whole thing! It's true ya know, ask any internet spanner spinner...


Nice work bro.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

I like this thread. Even if it is a ford. Makes me wish I woild have taken more pictures of some of my past and current builds.

You ever tip the engine stand back and drop the cam in from above? I learned that trick a long time ago when I rebuilt a 4.0 inline jeep motor. Makes it a super slick and smooth drop in.

Cam gear on yours might have been a hang up but looks like you've been inside a few



Steven