McCulloch Super Pro 125c build thread

[jacob j.]

I also wondered what happened to Rotax Robert, Al - Apparently he's not been active with the "Predator" in the last few years. The most recent pictures/video
I've been able to find of it date from 2008 I think.

 

[NPKenny]

Funny, the Predator spent a week on Phoenix craigslist about a year ago. Local posting for an enormous amount of money. A bit out of place but maybe he’s on the move.

 

[jacob j.]

I got time to do more 125 build stuff today, and wanted to go over the on/off switch, kill wire, and trigger replacement. The trigger in my current tank was broken and the on/off switch
wasn't working anymore. The 125's use a plastic on/off button with a plastic slide and a copper grounding tab. The kill switch wire screws into the on/off button and hooks to a grounding
tab on the coil. It's a simple, smart design but the wire has a plastic coating which hardens over time and breaks. It's easy enough to make a new replacement with bulk wire, heat shrink,
and crimp connectors.

 

[jacob j.]

To install the mess - I start with taping the on/off switch knob to the tank, and the lining up the copper grounding tab. Then I bend the end of the kill switch wire and insert the clamping screw,
and line it all up and gently start the screw.

 

[jacob j.]

Detail of the throttle trigger, pivot pin, and e-clip.

 

[jacob j.]

Installing the throttle trigger - You have to pull the throttle rod back a bit to get clearance from the pistol grip. Then you hook the trigger to the rod, and keep the tension spring
tucked inside the piston grip. On any used tank, there should be witness marks where the back of the tension spring rests.

 

[jacob j.]

Then you can seat the pivot pin, install the e-clip, and then install the grip liner and retaining screw.

 

[jacob j.]

Getting ready to install the tank on the short block - I usually pull the impulse hose out of the tank and install it on the manifold first. I also get the manual oiler rod lined up
and set the manual oiler button out about halfway.

 

[jacob j.]

I think the hardest part for most people is getting the intake boot worked on, especially if it's used and has stiffened up over time. I keep a longer flat-head screwdriver inserted in the lower part
of the intake boot spring while I'm working the whole mess on, and then use the screwdriver to carefully work the boot on. You'll feel it kind of 'snap' into place when the retaining lip of the boot
meshes up with the rolled lip on the manifold.

 

[jacob j.]

This picture shows the bottom of the intake boot fully seated on the manifold. The spring will hold tension and keep everything riding fairly well while the saw is in use.

 

[jacob j.]

I use these tools mainly when installing the tank - long flat head screwdriver and long, curved needle nose pliers. McCulloch had a specialty tool for installing the
boot which sort of looked like a cross between a ball joint/tie rod fork and a spatula. It allowed the technician to apply even pressure on the bottom of the boot
while slipping it on the manifold.

 

[p61 western]

I use these tools mainly when installing the tank - long flat head screwdriver and long, curved needle nose pliers. McCulloch had a specialty tool for installing the
boot which sort of looked like a cross between a ball joint/tie rod fork and a spatula. It allowed the technician to apply even pressure on the bottom of the boot
while slipping it on the manifold.

Looking good Jacob. I will dig that coil out and hopefully get it out Tuesday.

 

[jacob j.]

Looking good Jacob. I will dig that coil out and hopefully get it out Tuesday.

Mike - your coil worked out perfectly - here it is in action:

 

[p61 western]

Mike - your coil worked out perfectly - here it is in action:

Perfect glad to hear Jacob. The saw looks good. That dang 346 gave me a fight today lol.

 

[jacob j.]

Perfect glad to hear Jacob. The saw looks good. That dang 346 gave me a fight today lol.

Is it running yet?

 

[p61 western]

Is it running yet?

Yes, but it sure was a fight lol.

 

[Bigmac]

Mike - your coil worked out perfectly - here it is in action:

Looks good! Did you add some chrome? Like that bar! 40” cannon?

 

[jacob j.]

Looks good! Did you add some chrome? Like that bar! 40” cannon?

This is another one and I had that chrome shroud laying around from a 101b I bought off of rearviewkarts.com years ago. This is the third 125 I've built in the last six weeks.

I'm giving this one to my cousin to commemorate his dad who passed away in September. His dad (my uncle) was a long time timber faller here who started his career in 1971
with the 125s. The bar is a 42" Cannon with some new old stock Carlton .404" chisel chain from the 70's. I bought two new rolls of it from a retired dealer in Forest Grove about 15
years ago. Carlton chain back then was badazz.

 

[Bigmac]

This is another one and I had that chrome shroud laying around from a 101b I bought off of rearviewkarts.com years ago. This is the third 125 I've built in the last six weeks.

I'm giving this one to my cousin to commemorate his dad who passed away in September. His dad (my uncle) was a long time timber faller here who started his career in 1971
with the 125s. The bar is a 42" Cannon with some new old stock Carlton .404" chisel chain from the 70's. I bought two new rolls of it from a retired dealer in Forest Grove about 15
years ago. Carlton chain back then was badazz.

Cool, it did look different from the others! The chrome always looks great! That’s a nice bar for sure!
Was that running a 7 or 8 pin rim with the 404?
That makes for a gift and remembrance! Good job!

 

[Lee H]

Very nice JJ, Sounds great. A little tip to installing the intake boot
to the intake manifold. I used stp oil treatment on both the boot and
manifold, The old style stp is slicker than snot on a door knob. Boot
pops right on with a little push with a screw driver.