Let’s build a Husky 350.

[MemphisMechanic]

Got a hole in my saw lineup on the work truck for a 50cc saw, scored this for $100 with “budget 346XP build” dreams in my head. It’s a non-runner with good clean plastics, complete.

Dec of 2007 looks like. Primer bulb hard as a rock. Has the metal intake boot clamp. Not too filthy…

Let’s keep digging…

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Oof. Houston… we’ve found the problem.

Cylinder has two scratches deep enough to condem the top end by themselves, even if the rest of it cleaned up. Which it wouldn’t.

The rod and crank bearings feel fantastic, at least. I’m not planning to do any work down there besides crank seals.

Also, I should specify that it’s going into service professsionally. She’ll get used hard, so I’m replacing anything questionable.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Plan so far…

1. I’d love to find an OEM 346 top end for it. This one’s getting ported and I want it strong. Kindly weigh in on which top end you’d run if you’re someone who has built a few of these.

2. Crank seals. Primer bulb. New muffler gasket. Carb kit to freshen up the diaphragms - at the very least.

3. Unlimited coil, open to suggestions on the best option here.

4. Oil pump mod to increase output.

5. Lightweight .325 18” or 20” bar.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Oh damn. Also…

Found these when boxing the saw up until rebuild day. One of the bar studs got knocked through into the oil tank while I tore it down. The other could be pushed through with a finger.

Can I slap some JB on these and reinstall them? Can’t see a reason that won’t work. They’re still a pretty snug press fit.

 

[redline4]

Oh damn. Also…

Found these when boxing the saw up until rebuild day. One of the bar studs got knocked through into the oil tank while I tore it down. The other could be pushed through with a finger.

Can I slap some JB on these and reinstall them? Can’t see a reason that won’t work. They’re still a pretty snug press fit.

Hammer and punch and dimple them.
Or if you know someone who has the ability to knurl them.

 

[Woodwater]

2007 week 12 Manufactured. the first 2 numbers in the serial number means Year and the second 2 numbers there is the week in that year.

"yywwxxxxx"

 

[Woodrow]

New Oem top end for sure. Can be bought for around $125.00

 

[Woodwater]

for bar studs installation you need a fishing line or something like that. its easy!

 

[David Boyd]

Someone just posted link to a Forester .325 Featherlite bar being sold on Ebay for the Husky 350/346 saws. Weighed 1 lb 9.8 oz. I think they are a pretty new product and were going for a really good price.

I am following this thread with great interest.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

New Oem top end for sure. Can be bought for around $125.00

Where?!?!

I haven’t seen anything OEM for a 346XP or 350/353 for less than $250 despite some furious googling.

I’d love to go OEM 346 on this saw.

 

[rzonk]

Plan so far…

1. I’d love to find an OEM 346 top end for it. This one’s getting ported and I want it strong. Kindly weigh in on which top end you’d run if you’re someone who has built a few of these.

2. Crank seals. Primer bulb. New muffler gasket. Carb kit to freshen up the diaphragms - at the very least.

3. Unlimited coil, open to suggestions on the best option here.

4. Oil pump mod to increase output.

5. Lightweight .325 18” or 20” bar.

try Mike Messina on chainsaw repair and sell website he has tons of Husky parts

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Can I get in touch with him without joining yet another forum? Unfamiliar with that resource.

 

[Gary Courtney]

Friend of mine gave me a 350 that was not used much 10 years ago that I never have cut with. I pulled it out and put a 16" b/c on and cut with it Wed. and I must say that I was very impressed with this little saw . I cut 18 to 20 inch rounds with no lug at all.

 

[HumBurner]

Friend of mine gave me a 350 that was not used much 10 years ago that I never have cut with. I pulled it out and put a 16" b/c on and cut with it Wed. and I must say that I was very impressed with this little saw . I cut 18 to 20 inch rounds with no lug at all.

They are very strong, capable saws....just plastic and often abused.

 

[Oldbuzzard]

try Mike Messina on chainsaw repair and sell website he has tons of Husky parts

Husqvarna OEM P&C s have been real cheap for a while. $125-150 sounds right.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

Husqvarna OEM P&C s have been real cheap for a while. $125-150 sounds right.

I keep seeing comments to the effect of top ends being cheap, but it looks like $180 for an OEM kit is the best I’ll find:

OEM Husqvarna 346 XP Cylinder 44.3mm

Is the 44.3 346XP upper the best choice to make power with this saw? Asking guys who’ve built a few ported hotrod 350’s.

 

[HumBurner]

I keep seeing comments to the effect of top ends being cheap, but it looks like $180 for an OEM kit is the best I’ll find:

OEM Husqvarna 346 XP Cylinder 44.3mm

Is the 44.3 346XP upper the best choice to make power with this saw? Asking guys who’ve built a few ported hotrod 350’s.

I'm assuming you know, but if not.....it's not a direct swap from 350 to 346. There's threads about what different folks have done to make it work.

 

[farminkarman]

I keep seeing comments to the effect of top ends being cheap, but it looks like $180 for an OEM kit is the best I’ll find:

OEM Husqvarna 346 XP Cylinder 44.3mm

Is the 44.3 346XP upper the best choice to make power with this saw? Asking guys who’ve built a few ported hotrod 350’s.

Yes, the 44.3 is the best for making power on this chassis. As for the prices, the $125 price point doesn’t exist anymore. A couple years ago I bought several for under $100. Husky is looking for crazy prices on their parts right now…might be here to stay.

Edit: The Duke’s 346 top ends run great. When ported I can’t really tell them apart from OEM in the performance dept. Never have run one right out of the box fwiw.

 

[MemphisMechanic]

That much I’m very familiar with. DynoJoe also did a fantastic YouTube video spelling it out and porting one. Very simple process, but thanks for checking.

 

[Gary Courtney]

I keep seeing comments to the effect of top ends being cheap, but it looks like $180 for an OEM kit is the best I’ll find:

OEM Husqvarna 346 XP Cylinder 44.3mm

Is the 44.3 346XP upper the best choice to make power with this saw? Asking guys who’ve built a few ported hotrod 350’s.

I have owned several 346's some ported and to cut a log 3 seconds faster than what that little 350 I own would not be worth it to me IMO