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Ugly Stihl 064 overhaul

redline4

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I also lied.
I got sick of pulling old barbed wire from my line fence, so I did a bit more..

Fish the wires under the impulse and slide the wire into the end of the control lever
20231223_145010.jpg

Spade terminal onto the spring
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Inner dog bolted on
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Bar plate on

20231223_145415.jpg

Intake inner ring in place
20231223_145441.jpg
 

redline4

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Here's where I'll turn from the disassembly.
After getting this saw, I stopped at a local "closed" dealer who was purging his inventory. The place was old, dark, dingy, and the old guy rarely had to look anything up.
I asked if he had the HDII parts for an 064, specifically a base plate for a non compensating carb (which I heard was uncommon to find) and the filter cover.
He returned with this stuff a few minutes later, all still in a package.
20231223_145955.jpg

Knowing him to be a notorious tightwad, I was almost afraid to ask how much.
When he said $50, I couldn't get the cash out fast enough.

Base plate sets on.
I use lock nuts on it
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Air filter
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And cover

20231223_150753.jpg
 

beaglebriar

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Ship that bish DJ.
I'd put it together for ya.
I appreciate that Ed but I gotta finish what I started. The bottom end is built, needs all new rubber bits. I get the shop back together and caught up on other saws then I’ll get back to it.
 

legdelimber

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Can I mention that my OCD is going nuts about always turning "E" clips so that the sharp side is against the shoulder that is in the direction the clip would try to escape to?
The clutch E-ring is why I'm wiggin out.

Was always taught that the rounded side helped make it easier to slip out of the groove.
A bit more looking and now I see...
Chain brake linkage E-clips look to have wear marks that say they had been mounted rounded side inwards before.

I'm a bit OCD & ADD guys. aaagggh!
Sometimes it's usefull, other times it just makes me a pain in the neck.
 
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MemphisMechanic

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Can I mention that my OCD is going nuts about always turning "E" clips so that the sharp side is against the shoulder that is in the direction the clip would try to escape to?
The clutch E-ring is why I'm wiggin out.

Was always taught that the rounded side helped make it easier to slip out of the groove.
A bit more looking and now I see...
Chain brake linkage E-clips look to have wear marks that say they had been mounted rounded side inwards before.

I'm a bit OCD & ADD guys. aaagggh!
Sometimes it's usefull, other times it just makes me a pain in the neck.
I have always installed them in the “whichever way they were lying when grabb off the bench” manner. No issues thus far.

You logic makes sense. However I am not certain the caution is required in this case.
 

redline4

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@redline4 I believe that style does not require a gasket. Should seal up on the rubber, no?
Also did you at least put a gasket and diaphragm kit in that carburetor to refresh it?
Otherwise looking good and mice score on the nos parts.

The gasket between the carb and the plate?
Ipl shows one and this one was in there, so I honestly don't know. I'd think because that metal plate goes against the rubber boot, then carb that there would need to be a gasket?
No, I didn't touch the carb as it was a runner prior to me messing with it, but I am not opposed to putting a kit in it either. I'll look into getting one.
 

redline4

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Can I mention that my OCD is going nuts about always turning "E" clips so that the sharp side is against the shoulder that is in the direction the clip would try to escape to?
The clutch E-ring is why I'm wiggin out.

Was always taught that the rounded side helped make it easier to slip out of the groove.
A bit more looking and now I see...
Chain brake linkage E-clips look to have wear marks that say they had been mounted rounded side inwards before.

I'm a bit OCD & ADD guys. aaagggh!
Sometimes it's usefull, other times it just makes me a pain in the neck.

I personally have always had the habit on semi floating automotive axles that when I remove a C clip to replace an axle seal or bearing, I always flip in on reinstallation because of the slight wear mark from the axle on one side and differential carrier on the other. On these E clips though, I've never noticed a difference side to side other than some slight wear occasionally.
 

beaglebriar

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Can I mention that my OCD is going nuts about always turning "E" clips so that the sharp side is against the shoulder that is in the direction the clip would try to escape to?
The clutch E-ring is why I'm wiggin out.

Was always taught that the rounded side helped make it easier to slip out of the groove.
I do the same but try not to advertise it…makes people think you’re weird.
 

Loony661

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Can I mention that my OCD is going nuts about always turning "E" clips so that the sharp side is against the shoulder that is in the direction the clip would try to escape to?
The clutch E-ring is why I'm wiggin out.

Was always taught that the rounded side helped make it easier to slip out of the groove.
A bit more looking and now I see...
Chain brake linkage E-clips look to have wear marks that say they had been mounted rounded side inwards before.

I'm a bit OCD & ADD guys. aaagggh!
Sometimes it's usefull, other times it just makes me a pain in the neck.
I personally have always had the habit on semi floating automotive axles that when I remove a C clip to replace an axle seal or bearing, I always flip in on reinstallation because of the slight wear mark from the axle on one side and differential carrier on the other. On these E clips though, I've never noticed a difference side to side other than some slight wear occasionally.
Ok I’m going to freak you out now: with the clutch E-clip, I have always purposely installed it with the smooth edges inward, toward the retaining washer. This has never failed me, and always allows for easier removal next time. Some of those E-clips when installed with the sharp shoulder, in, can be a real PITA to remove for service.
 

Stump Shot

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The gasket between the carb and the plate?
Ipl shows one and this one was in there, so I honestly don't know. I'd think because that metal plate goes against the rubber boot, then carb that there would need to be a gasket?
No, I didn't touch the carb as it was a runner prior to me messing with it, but I am not opposed to putting a kit in it either. I'll look into getting one.
I see the plate now, thought that was the gasket when I browsed through. I guess leave it for now and can always take it out later if it's not needed (plate and gasket).
It will be a good idea to so when the saw is ported it can perform perfectly and give good performance. ;)
Use either Walbro kit D11-WJ or one from Stihl.
 
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