Help with a Husky 350

[huskihl]

I only have one 350 project and I dont plan to build it.
Those plastic ones I've seen is 503 89 22, and they seems to fit perfect for the 346 clutch drum.

Yes. They do. I did a 346 within a few days of the 350. There may have been differences, but nothing I noticed

 

[Backtroller]

Anyone have a good 346 case (with crank) they would let go? The one that was sent to me was junk and I'm going to return it. The crank barely turns. The pull side of the case looks fine, but that's about it. This is disheartening.

Worst case is that I'll build a 350 with the 346 top end on it and call it good enough

 

[Mattyo]

Personally I don't HAVE to have the mag case to be happy. I really don't like the clutch side bearing/ seal setup. Both mag and plastic cases have their issues. So imho going with the plastic case isn't a bad thing.

 

[Backtroller]

I was frustrated because I've been beating bushes to make it happen and it didn't work out. That said, I'm sure I'd be happy with either, but since I was going through this work I'd rather have the "professional" more valuable saw if I wAs going to possibly sell it down the road.

I'm sure that when I'm sawing I will not know the difference.

 

[Tor R]

I really don't understand this 346 clutch side bearing/seal issue, I was nerveous the first time I swapped bearing but I followed the advise to Randy and it turned out to be easy.
Freezer and heat is vital on 346 clutch side bearing.

This bearing/seal is the same Husky continued to use on 545/550/555/560/562/570/575.

Reason why they use this sort bearing is to shave off the crank, ie, more slim body, something they started to do back in 1980 with their 133 model who has one expensive PTO bearing from slacker, and they continued to use this slim design on 242, and they took it even further with 550, that crank is so compact that its almost scaring!

I for sure like the price tag on traditional system where bearing and seal where seperated, but when I go for firewood work I love those slim Huskies.

 

[Backtroller]

I was able to get a pretty nice 2000 346xp case and started to switch things from the 350. I did notice that the sheet metal that goes over the oil pump is slightly different between the 2. The 350 has one hole to bolt it down while the 346 has 2. Both probably work, I didn't check.

I bolted down the cylinder and discovered that the bolts were too long. I grinded down some washers, but ended up cutting the screws down instead.

I checked the squish and while doing that I noticed that the piston "clunked" at the bottom of the stroke and felt that it had some resistance. It seemed that the bottom of the skirt was hitting on the front of the case. I sanded the skirt lightly, reassembled and it feels good with zero drama. Maybe because it's a larger bore Meteor kit?

 

[Backtroller]

Here's a pic

 

[Backtroller]

Muffler modded a new one and matched the port to the gasket and heat shield. Opened up the enterance to the muffler to match too. Nothing too crazy.

 

[Backtroller]

Here's the two covers to see the difference.

I'm using the Black coil off of the 346 instead of the blue 350 coil.

 

[Tor R]

View attachment 47426
Here's the two covers to see the difference.

I'm using the Black coil off of the 346 instead of the blue 350 coil.

there was two different covers for 346, your 346 has the OE style. Both covers use two screws.
350 covers as the one you has in the bottom only has one screw.
That is the easiest way to sort out what different covers those are for

 

[Tpagel]

Pat,
That exhaust looks awesome.
I have a 2149 that I want to do soon.
It kind of took a backseat to the holidays.
And since I won the 346xpg in the 150 raffle I may go radical on the the ports on the 2149 it has the removable covers.
Good looking work hope it rips


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Backtroller]

Very cool. Congratulations on winning that saw!

 

[Mattyo]

I think I noted in my 346xp vid that the meteor piston does bind with the case a bit, because the case you have is an OE ... 42mm bore went on there, they weren't expecting a NE cylinder or 45mm cylinder on there I think. a bit of grinding and you are back in business.

 

[Backtroller]

Yes, I'm 99% sure I saw it on your video. Lot's of info you have there to process. Very helpful though.

It moves throughout the cycle well now. I'm just waiting for some intake parts and it will be ready to run....and a jug of loctite to keep it all together.

 

[Dub11]

Hello gentlemen I could really use your help I have a 2145 and my problem is when I release the clutch brake the cover or flag ( hard to tell) wants to flex and the splines slip. If I lay it down on the clutch side and hold it down it works great.

 

[Mattyo]

This question belongs in its own thread...

And...to answer the question...it sounds like the flag is broken or worn... or something is broken or wrong with the clutch cover...or your bar and nuts are not seated all the way

 

[Dub11]

This question belongs in its own thread...

And...to answer the question...it sounds like the flag is broken or worn... or something is broken or wrong with the clutch cover...or your bar and nuts are not seated all the way

Thanks and sorry for the intrusion this was the closest active thing I could find and these parts looled the same.

 

[Backtroller]

It doesn't bother me. I'm sorry I dont have an answer for you though.

 

[Backtroller]

I'm trying to fit a Zama EL32 from a 2007 350 that originally had the primer set up to a 2000 OE 346xp case without the primer set up. My question is with the second fuel inlet, the one on the left side of the carb...can I just block that off?

On the 350 it's just a to prime and then it returns to the tank?

It's a new carb and I really don't want to buy a different model if I don't have to.

 

[Mattyo]

For the fuel inlet that goes to the primer bulb...just block it. Done it. Works fine.

Use some fuel line..short piece. ..fold over and zip tie