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Which limbing saw??

Best for limbing

  • Dolmar 421

    Votes: 11 26.8%
  • Stihl 241c

    Votes: 11 26.8%
  • Husqvarna 453xp

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • MS150T

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • Husky 346xp

    Votes: 17 41.5%

  • Total voters
    41

bwalker

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Not impressed. Panteliss probably does that in a year. That's three hours and change given a eight hour day and five day week,which no one outside of government work does anymore. I've put that much and more on any number of tools or equipment.
He's not done with it yet..
 

bwalker

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I agree with you on the bar length thing Brian, but limbing evergreens is different than limbing hardwoods. You are not walking the trunk and knocking off branches. You are often standing on a branch reaching out and over your head to cut another branch. They are often all over the place, often very hard to reach. A light saw will keep you working longer.

When ever possible, I like to cut them to length right off the tree, no use moving it more often than you have to, and I would rather cut it in the air than on the ground.
Smaller diameter trunks, less limbs and much harder wood.
I have cut dry side old growth Doug Fir and it cuts easy compared to red oak or sugar maple. Either are much worse when dead provided the bark slipped off.
 

bwalker

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BTW I am not sure what a limbing saw actually is. When I go into the woods I take the saw I plan on using and if I am far from home a backup. One saw falls, bucks and limbs.
When I logged I did the same thing with typically a 70cc class saw vs the 50-60cc saws I mostly run now.
 

Keith Gandy

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BTW I am not sure what a limbing saw actually is. When I go into the woods I take the saw I plan on using and if I am far from home a backup. One saw falls, bucks and limbs.
When I logged I did the same thing with typically a 70cc class saw vs the 50-60cc saws I mostly run now.
In my mind a limbing saw will be light, easy to handle with a neutral balance, high revving, and fast
 

Keith Gandy

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Ok, basicly something you use for trees up to 20" or so? You don't actually carry one saw to fall/buck and another to limb?
Ben I do. Up to about 20" ill carry a small saw to limb, which will be the 346 now, and the 562. If its a big tree ill use the 346 to limb, the 064 to buck, and the 390 setup with 404 to noodle. Saves having to sharpen alot in the field
 

Tor R

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Before when I only had the old tractor I used one saw for tree fall&bucking and one saw for limbing.
With the new tractor I have a different system, it has winch on back lifter and timber grip on front lifter.

Nowadays I pick out my saw for the amount of limbing work I gotta do, a tree fall doesnt take long time it's limbing work who is time consuming. I finish the day by dragging trees down to an area I have for storing, bucking work is done months later.

242 is my most used softwood saw, JRed 2253 as alround, and as big as possible for bucking.
 

Simondo

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Tor's post highlights this hole thing for me....It depends !
It depends on how much you like saws.
" " " " " " on how deep your pockets are and if you see and feel the value in different saws.
"" "" "" " on the wood and size of that wood.
"" "" "" " on your strength plus what machines and system of cutting/harvesting you use.
" " " " " " on so many other things along with all our own personal preferences and hang ups !!
Personally I like to have at least the "option " of more than one saw if the trees are bigger that about a foot .
Try as many as you can is my motto and " like what you like" poor performing and poor made saws wont often get recommended i bet.
 

Keith Gandy

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Tor's post highlights this hole thing for me....It depends !
It depends on how much you like saws.
" " " " " " on how deep your pockets are and if you see and feel the value in different saws.
"" "" "" " on the wood and size of that wood.
"" "" "" " on your strength plus what machines and system of cutting/harvesting you use.
" " " " " " on so many other things along with all our own personal preferences and hang ups !!
Personally I like to have at least the "option " of more than one saw if the trees are bigger that about a foot .
Try as many as you can is my motto and " like what you like" poor performing and poor made saws wont often get recommended i bet.
Well said!!:)
 

junkman

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I agree with you on the bar length thing Brian, but limbing evergreens is different than limbing hardwoods. You are not walking the trunk and knocking off branches. You are often standing on a branch reaching out and over your head to cut another branch. They are often all over the place, often very hard to reach. A light saw will keep you working longer.

When ever possible, I like to cut them to length right off the tree, no use moving it more often than you have to, and I would rather cut it in the air than on the ground.
I would still use the hybrid on that whole tree., just buck the limbs at the trunk so they hit the ground them use the bar tip on the 32 Inch bar for firewood roumds, easier on my back them holding a saw in the air, but do what works for you as long as it gets done is all that counts
 

Jose A.S.T.S.

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With tree work being my job I have at least 3 saws in my truck per job most I have will be 5 if you really do the work I don't have time for switching chains, filing, I grab another saw and don't miss a lick. If you do any tree work at all you will pinch, hit metal, or dirt hidden rocks, can't always miss a fork and there is some type a surprise usually waiting.... and if your saw decides today is the day it lays down awesome now what....
 

Tor R

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If one saw could do it all wouldn't we be down to one basic saw design and size and the various manufacturers take on it?
if the trees where the same all over the planet we would just had one size saws.
My saw system would be totally fiasco on the canadian West coast, while their system would be totally over kill in my forrest, imaginate me doing spruce work with one 3120 XP
 
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