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Which limbing saw??

Best for limbing

  • Dolmar 421

    Votes: 11 26.8%
  • Stihl 241c

    Votes: 11 26.8%
  • Husqvarna 453xp

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • MS150T

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • Husky 346xp

    Votes: 17 41.5%

  • Total voters
    41

exSW

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Because my friend the truth is that someone who have a 562 for example and his is a homeowner and will use the saw only sometimes a year for collecting some woods , this pro saw can do all his jobs and ten times much more .
All the others about ported saws , pro bars that cost tones of money , specialty filters , etc,etc are just bla bla bla bla , and photos in the forums from peoples that most of them cut only 5 woods a year

Now you can tell me Debby downer or what you want no personal problem

from someone who cut 3000+ cubic meters every year and his family live from this

best regards
have a nice day

And how long did your most recent 562 last?
 

bwalker

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Spring tension is critical. Distort it in any way and more than likely a new one will be bought and be careful putting that one in. The choke in the airfilter I never been a fan of. Poor filtration and lil surface area imo
I have never had a problem with the control spring and have taken it apart several times. I agree on the air filter. It not only has poor area, but it leaks bad at the seams and at the choke shaft.
 

bwalker

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Your experience and mine are completely different.
Vibration can be measured. I am sure SawTroll has the numbers.
So can port timing. It's impossible for the 260 to have decent torque because the exhaust port is too high and the transfers too small. Your perception doesn't match the reality of the design, nor of many other people who have operated both saws.
But, your certainly entitled to your opinion.
 
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exSW

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A logger I know has 800 hours on one without issue.

Not impressed. Panteliss probably does that in a year. That's three hours and change given a eight hour day and five day week,which no one outside of government work does anymore. I've put that much and more on any number of tools or equipment.
 

sawfun

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Vibration can be measured. I am sure SawTroll has the numbers.
So can port timing. It's impossible for the 260 to have decent torque because the exhaust port is too high and the transfers too small. Your perception doesn't match the reality of the design, nor of many other people who have operated both saws.
But, your certainly entitled to your opinion.
I'm glad of our realities being different. I am less concerned with paper numbers, maybe 026 and 260 numbers are different, and more what has worked for me and several folks I have met.
 

panteliss

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And how long did your most recent 562 last?

i am a stihl boy but i dont have problem if is husqvarna or dolmar i just like to be a good saw

3000 cubic meters are not the big number , we take forest areas from the goverment and then we sale firewoods to customers generally each customer order from 20 to 30 cubics so just for my neighbors i must cut about 400-500 cubics , another 1000 1500 for other sellers and the rest again to other customers
usally i buy new saws every two years i just give the olds to friends for good price and buy news i have made a good deal with my dealer that i buy from him the last 10-12 years and he give me better prices

Now for how long can go a saw , depent of the operator some are care for them and they are happy for years and some they are twice a week to service
 

panteliss

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Vibration can be measured. I am sure SawTroll has the numbers.
So can port timing. It's impossible for the 260 to have decent torque because the exhaust port is too high and the transfers too small. Your perception doesn't match the reality of the design, nor of many other people who have operated both saws.
But, your certainly entitled to your opinion.

The antivibrations is a big story and depent of the operator I know how to cut and how to put my body for having better control when i cut or bucking or limbing but someone else dont know so with the same saw they results will be diferent
 

rocco490

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I voted for the 241 stihl as I think the new version will be nice and light and lighter than any of the non top handles on that list. But I like my 550xp and if I was looking at a limbing and smaller diameter cutting saw to buy now I would still buy for myself a 550xp.
 

Tor R

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@panteliss, running cost is normally more expensive on 562 vs 346/550.
Where I live I dont think we have the offer for 2×chain& 1×bar pack as we have for 550.
Even for a guy who use 562 as main saw, buying one 346/550 for a tad lighter work it will pay itself due running cost.

I voted for the 241 stihl as I think the new version will be nice and light and lighter than any of the non top handles on that list. But I like my 550xp and if I was looking at a limbing and smaller diameter cutting saw to buy now I would still buy for myself a 550xp.
+1
My best purchase ever was the JRed 2253WH, if I needed a new saw tomorrow I would bought one JRed 2253WH / Husky 550 XPG
 
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bwalker

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The antivibrations is a big story and depent of the operator I know how to cut and how to put my body for having better control when i cut or bucking or limbing but someone else dont know so with the same saw they results will be diferent
I suppose if your refund on the saw to the point the antivibe buffers max out operator might make a differance, but no one that's competent does that.
 

bwalker

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And I am not a Husky Fanboy by any means.
However, that fact of the matter is the 260 was an antiquated boat anchor 20 years ago and saws like the 346 and 550 have came along way since.
Using a 260 as we speak..20160810_165340.jpg
 

treesmith

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I've read a few threads like this before and they're great, the only problem is every time I think it through there's a different answer depending on the job

The best saw for limbing is whatever is big enough to get it done comfortably, sometimes an ms150t, quite often a 200t

On more than one occasion its been an 088xb as it's already in my hands.


I happily recommend the ms170, lightly modded, I used one for months limbing to feed a chipper, a brilliant saw! One handed when necessary, light, well balanced, good on fuel, low vibe, shares PS/PM bars and chain with stihl top handles, cheap, durable, internal clutch and cuts pretty well with a good 12" chain in hard wood. A 346/550 is actually quite cumbersome in comparison and 3-4X the price new.

Yeah, a top of the range pro saw will cut quicker but horses for courses, sometimes that's irrelevant

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

Keith Gandy

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I've read a few threads like this before and they're great, the only problem is every time I think it through there's a different answer depending on the job

The best saw for limbing is whatever is big enough to get it done comfortably, sometimes an ms150t, quite often a 200t

On more than one occasion its been an 088xb as it's already in my hands.


I happily recommend the ms170, lightly modded, I used one for months limbing to feed a chipper, a brilliant saw! One handed when necessary, light, well balanced, good on fuel, low vibe, shares PS/PM bars and chain with stihl top handles, cheap, durable, internal clutch and cuts pretty well with a good 12" chain in hard wood. A 346/550 is actually quite cumbersome in comparison and 3-4X the price new.

Yeah, a top of the range pro saw will cut quicker but horses for courses, sometimes that's irrelevant

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From what Im seeing the right tool for each individual is different and depends on what they think in their mind is right and feels comfortable. Yes a ms170 would get the job done but I work on saws daily and personally that saw is a piece of crap in my opinion. Built very cheap. Myself I look for equipment thats built well , serviceable and was built to be rebuilt instead of disposable
 
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MustangMike

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I agree with you on the bar length thing Brian, but limbing evergreens is different than limbing hardwoods. You are not walking the trunk and knocking off branches. You are often standing on a branch reaching out and over your head to cut another branch. They are often all over the place, often very hard to reach. A light saw will keep you working longer.

When ever possible, I like to cut them to length right off the tree, no use moving it more often than you have to, and I would rather cut it in the air than on the ground.
 
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