I’ve had it for ages and want to hear and see it run so the next best thing is.....some pics,,,
I'm getin itchy waiting for the muff and seals.
There still a few things to do, like dye or paint the white plastic black behind the starter cover. Give the covers and handle a polish . Put some new stickers on. Also find a few screws I’ve seemed to have lost
.. Oh yes the lovely new 20” bar and chain (I didn’t see the point of fitting a new chain for a pic..) is thanks to @AlfA01 from the thanksgiving thread. A Big Thanks goes to Dan.
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Looks goodI’ve had it for ages and want to hear and see it run so the next best thing is.....some pics,,,
I'm getin itchy waiting for the muff and seals.
There still a few things to do, like dye or paint the white plastic black behind the starter cover. Give the covers and handle a polish . Put some new stickers on. Also find a few screws I’ve seemed to have lost
.. Oh yes the lovely new 20” bar and chain (I didn’t see the point of fitting a new chain for a pic..) is thanks to @AlfA01 from the thanksgiving thread. A Big Thanks goes to Dan.
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Sounds like a good old 044 to me. LolSo, I had 3 saws on my bench today. Unfortunately, I only was able to address one. My printer died, so no porting Andrew's saws until I get a new degree wheel printed up, or find the one I left down south in Waterford when I am there. But I did find time to pull the 10mm 044 apart.
Here's the before and after:
Cylinder cleaned up easily - it was just carbon - no real damage to the plating.
Now for some numbers:
No idea what the timings are - printer is dead. But I never was going to change it. I only widened the ports, removed the lips from the lower transfers, ground out the exhaust some(you can see it in the second image). Cylinder is a MAHLE 6+. So plus signs all over da place.
The wrist pin length on the Meteor is 33.8mm. On the OEM it is 34.9.
Piston gap for the con rod is 13.4mm for my MAHLE OEM piston. 15.2 for the Meteor.
So that's a cozy gap average of .9mm each side after installation. Not enough for the bearings to show themselves.
But still annoying.
Piston weight - OEM 75g. Meteor 78g(without rings). I didn't bother modding it.
After I got it together, I realised she was LOUD from the get go. Like maybe too much timing advance loud. She sounds like a piped saw. Well, OK, I did open up the front exhaust port by about 33%. I also was suspecting it might be a bit lean, so richened it up some. Still, when I went to start her for her third heat cycle today, she tried to snatch the handle from my grip. Unfortunately, the 044 was unsuccessful, and I held on, but the starter pawl paid the price. So, no 3rd heat cycle yet. I did rev her a little during the 2nd cycle, and she is very eager. Looking forwards to putting her to wood.
If you're going to put the HD filter setup on your saw I would highly recommend keeping it on it just retune the carb it's going to make more power and that's what you want. And lol don't tease the saw with your fingers now.I forgot the tacho.. next time thou.. and with a good chain..and not with the duromatic bar. I’ve made this mistake before, tuning for a duromatic then fitting a rollermatic ( it change the tune and went lean iirc,)
put a few more tanks throu it.
Work still to do,,,
I got some new oem clutch springs to fit.
Sort out the slight fuel leak (prolly from the fuel line going into the tank)
Sort out the tank breather,,, it works but it leaks when tipped to the left.
Think about why the arctic heating is not working, and try fix it..
I ve got a bottle of rit dye (black) to dye the plastics that I can remove. Ie chain break spring cover, under the chain/clutch cover. starter housing plastic air guide for flywheel. and I got some new AM covers coming (after Xmas). So I shall do all plastics at once.
So with the AM plastics, I will have to go with the HD air filter setup. I guess I will see how it changes the rpms etc.
I can always revert to the oem plastics setup...
And lastly check all is well with the cylinder and piston, maybe give it a bit more of a tickle while I’m in there..