What's on your bench?

[K Mueller]

What’s the plate on the side for?

It’s a preheating kit, so the intake can pull some of that warmer air off the cylinder.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

So, on my 242xp issue…
I got to thinking… the carb kits have an inlet valve lever that sits well above he level of the carb body. The Walbro gauge I have lists this type of carb as being level with the top of the carb body. So, I bent the lever down to meet that spec.
I wondered why the kits, however, had levers that were well above that level.
Today I tried setting the lever at level with the body including the gasket. It wasn’t as proud as they came, but…
I got a consistent 14,6 rpm’s at 3/4 turn out on the H screw. It was late so I didn’t push the noise factor with my neighbors. I’ll try going to 1/2 turn and then try using an “as is” lever from another kit and see what happens.

The he plot thickens…

 

[Tor R]

So, on my 242xp issue…
I got to thinking… the carb kits have an inlet valve lever that sits well above he level of the carb body. The Walbro gauge I have lists this type of carb as being level with the top of the carb body. So, I bent the lever down to meet that spec.
I wondered why the kits, however, had levers that were well above that level.
Today I tried setting the lever at level with the body including the gasket. It wasn’t as proud as they came, but…
I got a consistent 14,6 rpm’s at 3/4 turn out on the H screw. It was late so I didn’t push the noise factor with my neighbors. I’ll try going to 1/2 turn and then try using an “as is” lever from another kit and see what happens.

The he plot thickens…

Didn't think about the level being wrong in the carburetor, flush is where the needle level should sit on them.

At least you've come one step further with troubleshooting it now.

I've only had a HDA 98 that was just wrong no matter what I did.
From idle to WOT, fantastic with nice 4 stroke 15.2k, from midrange to WOT super lean. It ended up in the trash after trying out everything.

 

[Stump Shot]

So, on my 242xp issue…
I got to thinking… the carb kits have an inlet valve lever that sits well above he level of the carb body. The Walbro gauge I have lists this type of carb as being level with the top of the carb body. So, I bent the lever down to meet that spec.
I wondered why the kits, however, had levers that were well above that level.
Today I tried setting the lever at level with the body including the gasket. It wasn’t as proud as they came, but…
I got a consistent 14,6 rpm’s at 3/4 turn out on the H screw. It was late so I didn’t push the noise factor with my neighbors. I’ll try going to 1/2 turn and then try using an “as is” lever from another kit and see what happens.

The he plot thickens…

As far as AM kits go, sometimes things like the little button on the inlet diaphragm being present or not can be an issue.
If a replacement spring was more likely than not is the wrong rate.
When the inlet lever was readjusted implies the new inlet needle is a different height. If too great a difference is made the fulcrum point is changed and alter things.
Somewhere there is a minor detail that is putting the snafu on your project.
Other tips that may help are, wet the gaskets prior to installation with fuel mix so they can swell and seal up properly, and pressure test when completed to 7PSI/ .5BAR to ensure there's not a leak causing trouble.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

As far as AM kits go, sometimes things like the little button on the inlet diaphragm being present or not can be an issue.
If a replacement spring was more likely than not is the wrong rate.
When the inlet lever was readjusted implies the new inlet needle is a different height. If too great a difference is made the fulcrum point is changed and alter things.
Somewhere there is a minor detail that is putting the snafu on your project.
Other tips that may help are, wet the gaskets prior to installation with fuel mix so they can swell and seal up properly, and pressure test when completed to 7PSI/ .5BAR to ensure there's not a leak causing trouble.

Kits didn't have new springs so reused the old one, needle is exactly the same. Button is exactly the same.
The saw may be possesed...

 

[Stump Shot]

Kits didn't have new springs so reused the old one, needle is exactly the same. Button is exactly the same

This may sound silly, but without the benefit of having it in my hot little hands... how is the polish on the barrel?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

This may sound silly, but without the benefit of having it in my hot little hands... how is the polish on the barrel?

What barrel?

 

[Stump Shot]

What barrel?

The inside part of the carburetor leading up to the venturi.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

The inside part of the carburetor leading up to the venturi.

Ah, will check

 

[Stump Shot]

Ah, will check

They are mirror polished when made, and while they won't remain so forever, a dull look is okay, but a rough "weathered" finish could give troubles.
One other thing to note, the next time you run it, try so with the air filter removed to see if it is impeding air flow. Sometimes they can look nice, but be stomped up inside enough to be a problem.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

They are mirror polished when made, and while they won't remain so forever, a dull look is okay, but a rough "weathered" finish could give troubles.
One other thing to note, the next time you run it, try so with the air filter removed to see if it is impeding air flow. Sometimes they can look nice, but be stomped up inside enough to be a problem.

they look normal to me. can try a nos filter as well.

 

[jacktheripper]

Some Pioneer parts came in.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

They are mirror polished when made, and while they won't remain so forever, a dull look is okay, but a rough "weathered" finish could give troubles.
One other thing to note, the next time you run it, try so with the air filter removed to see if it is impeding air flow. Sometimes they can look nice, but be stomped up inside enough to be a problem.

Well...it seems to like a fleese filter rather than the fine mesh.
10-10,5 in the cut without any pressure added. 18" maple...

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Hmm....don't think I can salvage this one
Way too much corrosion.

 

[EFSM]

Hmm....don't think I can salvage this one
Way too much corrosion.
View attachment 479576

Whether to save it or not depends on how rare the carburetor is. Hitting that with a sandblaster and polishing the face would bring it right around, but there might be damage to the needle seat.

 

[heimannm]

This Remington SL11 was pumping a lot of air and very little oil. The pickup in the tank was pretty plugged and the line from the oil tank to the pump was a bit loose on the pump end.





All cleaned up and everything works now.

Next up is this Homelite Super XL dressed up in John Deere yellow.





It is locked up currently. I will get it apart and decide if there is any hope. I have some parts saws in the attic, or I may just clean it up and make it look nice for the display.

Mark

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Whether to save it or not depends on how rare the carburetor is. Hitting that with a sandblaster and polishing the face would bring it right around, but there might be damage to the needle seat.

The corrosion is localized to that one section. I wire brushed a lot of it off after quite some time in the sonic tank. But, how much is in the top passages that I can't get to?
Early 066 carb.

 

[EFSM]

The corrosion is localized to that one section. I wire brushed a lot of it off after quite some time in the sonic tank. But, how much is in the top passages that I can't get to?
Early 066 carb.

By top passages you mean the mix needle passages? Usually corrosion doesn’t affect them as much because they aren’t sealed like the pump chambers.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

By top passages you mean the mix needle passages? Usually corrosion doesn’t affect them as much because they aren’t sealed like the pump chambers.

I can get the larger ones with carb brushes. The tiny, .030 passages into the body of the carb, not so much.

 

[jacob j.]

I can get the larger ones with carb brushes. The tiny, .030 passages into the body of the carb, not so much.

I run a wire from a repair tag down into those as far as I can.