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singinwoodwackr

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So, on my 242xp issue…
I got to thinking… the carb kits have an inlet valve lever that sits well above he level of the carb body. The Walbro gauge I have lists this type of carb as being level with the top of the carb body. So, I bent the lever down to meet that spec.
I wondered why the kits, however, had levers that were well above that level.
Today I tried setting the lever at level with the body including the gasket. It wasn’t as proud as they came, but…
I got a consistent 14,6 rpm’s at 3/4 turn out on the H screw. It was late so I didn’t push the noise factor with my neighbors. I’ll try going to 1/2 turn and then try using an “as is” lever from another kit and see what happens.

The he plot thickens…
 

Tor R

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So, on my 242xp issue…
I got to thinking… the carb kits have an inlet valve lever that sits well above he level of the carb body. The Walbro gauge I have lists this type of carb as being level with the top of the carb body. So, I bent the lever down to meet that spec.
I wondered why the kits, however, had levers that were well above that level.
Today I tried setting the lever at level with the body including the gasket. It wasn’t as proud as they came, but…
I got a consistent 14,6 rpm’s at 3/4 turn out on the H screw. It was late so I didn’t push the noise factor with my neighbors. I’ll try going to 1/2 turn and then try using an “as is” lever from another kit and see what happens.

The he plot thickens…
Didn't think about the level being wrong in the carburetor, flush is where the needle level should sit on them.

At least you've come one step further with troubleshooting it now.

I've only had a HDA 98 that was just wrong no matter what I did.
From idle to WOT, fantastic with nice 4 stroke 15.2k, from midrange to WOT super lean. It ended up in the trash after trying out everything.
 

Stump Shot

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So, on my 242xp issue…
I got to thinking… the carb kits have an inlet valve lever that sits well above he level of the carb body. The Walbro gauge I have lists this type of carb as being level with the top of the carb body. So, I bent the lever down to meet that spec.
I wondered why the kits, however, had levers that were well above that level.
Today I tried setting the lever at level with the body including the gasket. It wasn’t as proud as they came, but…
I got a consistent 14,6 rpm’s at 3/4 turn out on the H screw. It was late so I didn’t push the noise factor with my neighbors. I’ll try going to 1/2 turn and then try using an “as is” lever from another kit and see what happens.

The he plot thickens…
As far as AM kits go, sometimes things like the little button on the inlet diaphragm being present or not can be an issue.
If a replacement spring was more likely than not is the wrong rate.
When the inlet lever was readjusted implies the new inlet needle is a different height. If too great a difference is made the fulcrum point is changed and alter things.
Somewhere there is a minor detail that is putting the snafu on your project.
Other tips that may help are, wet the gaskets prior to installation with fuel mix so they can swell and seal up properly, and pressure test when completed to 7PSI/ .5BAR to ensure there's not a leak causing trouble.
 

singinwoodwackr

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As far as AM kits go, sometimes things like the little button on the inlet diaphragm being present or not can be an issue.
If a replacement spring was more likely than not is the wrong rate.
When the inlet lever was readjusted implies the new inlet needle is a different height. If too great a difference is made the fulcrum point is changed and alter things.
Somewhere there is a minor detail that is putting the snafu on your project.
Other tips that may help are, wet the gaskets prior to installation with fuel mix so they can swell and seal up properly, and pressure test when completed to 7PSI/ .5BAR to ensure there's not a leak causing trouble.
Kits didn't have new springs so reused the old one, needle is exactly the same. Button is exactly the same.
The saw may be possesed...
 

Stump Shot

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Ah, will check
They are mirror polished when made, and while they won't remain so forever, a dull look is okay, but a rough "weathered" finish could give troubles.
One other thing to note, the next time you run it, try so with the air filter removed to see if it is impeding air flow. Sometimes they can look nice, but be stomped up inside enough to be a problem.
 

singinwoodwackr

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They are mirror polished when made, and while they won't remain so forever, a dull look is okay, but a rough "weathered" finish could give troubles.
One other thing to note, the next time you run it, try so with the air filter removed to see if it is impeding air flow. Sometimes they can look nice, but be stomped up inside enough to be a problem.
they look normal to me. can try a nos filter as well.
 

singinwoodwackr

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They are mirror polished when made, and while they won't remain so forever, a dull look is okay, but a rough "weathered" finish could give troubles.
One other thing to note, the next time you run it, try so with the air filter removed to see if it is impeding air flow. Sometimes they can look nice, but be stomped up inside enough to be a problem.
Well...it seems to like a fleese filter rather than the fine mesh.
10-10,5 in the cut without any pressure added. 18" maple...

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