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T.Roller

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My advice on the 660 (for whatever it is worth), timing advance and muff mod … good, don't forget to remove the limiters from the carb at the same time.

I have found that many unported 660s run stronger if you leave the baffle in, just drill a 1/2 hole in the back. Then, just drill two 1/4 or 3/8" holes on the high right side of the muffler cover, as close to the seam as you can get. On many of them, removing the baffle completely kills the torque. I've even put baffles back in on some ported ones I've got. If I'm running a big saw, I want to be able to lean on it.
It has nothing to do with that. It's the *s-word port timing
 

T.Roller

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Wow hope that's not the case here with this one because that's exactly what I done took the baffle out and opened the outlet hole up to about the size of the deflector we will see tomorrow how it pulls... he also has a 8 pin sprocket on it may want to go back to a 7 pin
It's all in the tune man but it's still a unported 660
 

MustangMike

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I'm not so sure about that. About the only thing wrong with my Cross jugs was the intake was too low (83/84). The one jug I got back from T-4 had the intake filled (was 80.5), and I think he did that to the other one also. So …

I think there are lots of factors, but most of my 660s like some baffle in the muffler.
 

T.Roller

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I'm not so sure about that. About the only thing wrong with my Cross jugs was the intake was too low (83/84). The one jug I got back from T-4 had the intake filled (was 80.5), and I think he did that to the other one also. So …

I think there are lots of factors, but most of my 660s like some baffle in the muffler.
The cross MMWS jugs are ported jugs Mike.
 

MG porting

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I heard the more open the muffler the more you have to raise the transfers. Not sure how to explain that... but it makes sense with back pressure and whatnot.
Because raising the transfers tword the combination chamber increases torque but there's a fine line on how far you take them.
 
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