What's on your bench?

[460 magnum]

This is first one I've ever had my hands on. Very simple. It was given to me by an older gentleman whose saws I work on.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Just good old durable little saws

 

[dustinwilt68]

MM and timing advance help but to me there still a slug, most disappointing saw I have ever owned, it was stoked when I first got it, till I ran it, @T.Roller warned me and he was right.

 

[MG porting]

I shaved the key way about 20 thousand

That will do on the timing she might bite his hands every now and then when he goes to start it. Lol.

 

[T.Roller]

I told him to get a max flow but idk if he will.. the saw is kinda hated just because it's a cream cycle and he is a 395 guy

And the fact a 660 is a turd

 

[T.Roller]

MM and timing advance help but to me there still a slug, most disappointing saw I have ever owned, it was stoked when I first got it, till I ran it, @T.Roller warned me and he was right.

Back when I was an all stihl guy I was excited to run a 660 for the first time. I was horribly disappointed

 

[MG porting]

MM and timing advance help but to me there still a slug, most disappointing saw I have ever owned, it was stoked when I first got it, till I ran it, @T.Roller warned me and he was right.

There not that bad come on now. Lol

 

[T.Roller]

There not that bad come on now. Lol

They are literally the weakest 90cc saw I've ran

 

[T.Roller]

@p61 western tell them about your 660 experience

 

[MG porting]

They are literally the weakest 90cc saw I've ran

Yea i here you but with some port work they wake up.

 

[T.Roller]

Yea i here you but with some port work they wake up.

Some

 

[T.Roller]

When I first found AS I was a Stihl tech and a all stihl guy. Running a 660 then a 395 opened my eyes. Now I own all kind of different brands. They all make good saws and bad.

 

[MG porting]

When I first found AS I was a Stihl tech and a all stihl guy. Running a 660 then a 395 opened my eyes. Now I own all kind of different brands. They all make good saws and bad.

Yep.

 

[460 magnum]

Yes I definitely think they leave a lot to be desired stock. My new 661 I just got has way more ballz than this 660. I just got the muffler opened on it I'll run it tomorrow in some wood for some fine tuning

 

[MustangMike]

My advice on the 660 (for whatever it is worth), timing advance and muff mod … good, don't forget to remove the limiters from the carb at the same time.

I have found that many unported 660s run stronger if you leave the baffle in, just drill a 1/2 hole in the back. Then, just drill two 1/4 or 3/8" holes on the high right side of the muffler cover, as close to the seam as you can get. On many of them, removing the baffle completely kills the torque. I've even put baffles back in on some ported ones I've got. If I'm running a big saw, I want to be able to lean on it.

 

[MustangMike]

That saw T-4 sent back to me woke up a lot with a baffled muffler on it. Don't know what port work he did or did not do as I was unable to get in touch with him, but it runs just fine now. It also ran good when I got it back from him, but if you leaned on it, it died.

 

[460 magnum]

Wow hope that's not the case here with this one because that's exactly what I done took the baffle out and opened the outlet hole up to about the size of the deflector we will see tomorrow how it pulls... he also has a 8 pin sprocket on it may want to go back to a 7 pin

 

[MustangMike]

Real cheap to test a fix, the Huztl muffs hardly cost anything. Just get one, drill a 1/2" hole in the back of the baffle, and compare it to how it currently runs.

Some ported saws will need that baffle removed, but if that cylinder is not ported, I'll bet it runs better with a modified baffle. Even the Cross MMWS cylinders did better with some baffle. That is how I discovered it, by accident.

I had what I called Asian Twins, both cylinders looked exactly the same, and the port timing was identical. One I drilled the 1/2" hole, the other I removed the baffle and opened the muffler up. When fired them up w/o B+C, I was sure the one with the opened up muffler was going to be stronger. Snappier response, and it sounded a lot meaner. But when but them both in a large round of Chestnut (Rock) Oak, the one with the open muffler fell on it's face.

So I ordered a new muffler for saw #2, and it ran so strong with it I did not want to sell it (so the guy I promised it to put money in my hand and took it). He loves it, and says it pulls real hard.

 

[p61 western]

@p61 western tell them about your 660 experience

Absolutely shocking how terrible it was. I have stronger 4 cube saws.

 

[460 magnum]

Real cheap to test a fix, the Huztl muffs hardly cost anything. Just get one, drill a 1/2" hole in the back of the baffle, and compare it to how it currently runs.

Some ported saws will need that baffle removed, but if that cylinder is not ported, I'll bet it runs better with a modified baffle. Even the Cross MMWS cylinders did better with some baffle. That is how I discovered it, by accident.

I had what I called Asian Twins, both cylinders looked exactly the same, and the port timing was identical. One I drilled the 1/2" hole, the other I removed the baffle and opened the muffler up. When fired them up w/o B+C, I was sure the one with the opened up muffler was going to be stronger. Snappier response, and it sounded a lot meaner. But when but them both in a large round of Chestnut (Rock) Oak, the one with the open muffler fell on it's face.

So I ordered a new muffler for saw #2, and it ran so strong with it I did not want to sell it (so the guy I promised it to put money in my hand and took it). He loves it, and says it pulls real hard.

Well I'll try it out tomorrow and if it does I will just try to weld it back in if I can if not then I guess I'll have to get a different muffler

 

[huskyboy]

I heard the more open the muffler the more you have to raise the transfers. Not sure how to explain that... but it makes sense with back pressure and whatnot.