What's on your bench?

[JohnnyBlade]

It's not like water at all. It's gel type. Motoseal is the thinnest stuff I've used

10-4. Motoseal is the first and only sealer ive used so far. So i really dont know. I was just going off of past experiences with loctite red and blue which is like water. Now i know about grape jelly!

 

[T.Roller]

10-4. Motoseal is the first and only sealer ive used so far. So i really dont know. I was just going off of past experiences with loctite red and blue which is like water. Now i know about grape jelly!

That's threadlocker that's thin. This is not threadlocker lol

 

[Sty57]

I love it! Non creamsicle! Different. Mean looking. [emoji106]

I had thought about doing it Green and Purple like a Wild Thing but I figured you Stihl guys would start a Lynch Mob after me.

 

[GCJenks204]

I had thought about doing it Green and Purple like a Wild Thing but I figured you Stihl guys would start a Lynch Mob after me.

You should build a cheese head saw...

 

[Sty57]

You should build a cheese head saw...

 

[huskyboy]

@RI Chevy I like 518 for base to cylinder on a saw, but it doesn’t work well on the plastic to riser seal *supposedly* on a clamshell. I use 3 bond 1184, motoseal, hondabond, yamabond or ect. for that (all kind of similar).

 

[Dub11]

I had thought about doing it Green and Purple like a Wild Thing but I figured you Stihl guys would start a Lynch Mob after me.

Aw man that would of been badass.

 

[Sty57]

Aw man that would of been badass.

Dallas would've tipped over from a heart attack......

 

[Dub11]

Dallas would've tipped over from a heart attack......

Well that's his problem lol.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Gave up on Motoseal when they changed it in the eighties. Worthless, goes on like hot piss thin JB Weld.

Permatex black on case corners to rubber seals or other gaskets like clam shell motors, RTV high heat red for rubber bits to whatever, grey for cork or case to gasket or water wet work and copper for all your exhaust and extreme environments like a *f-worded case seal pocket or wavy muffler flanges. Most stuff gets a steel gasket, my favorites, or NAFT and 518, 400 grit surface prep, shot of carb cleaner, assemble and overnight in a heated area. Case to case or metal to metal 518 only. Clam shell motors like any of the sealers. 518 must be cured first before use! No air is the key. Vac chamber speeds the process. 518 will not hold on a polished surface. If you use a wire wheel to clean the surface, you just polished it. A betting man would wager this is a major problem with so many re-builders of all kinds.
If you stick to this you will have very few adhesion or curing problems. If you do have problems it was most likely you missed a step during your prep. Go get a can of spray on etching adhesion promoter K.I.S.S.

PS
Once frozen sealers rarely cure

 

[Lightning Performance]

Dallas would've tipped over from a heart attack......

Hi Dallas

 

[T.Roller]

Gave up on Motoseal when they changed it in the eighties. Worthless, goes on like hot piss thin JB Weld.

Permatex black on case corners to rubber seals or other gaskets like clam shell motors, RTV high heat red for rubber bits to whatever, grey for cork or case to gasket or water wet work and copper for all your exhaust and extreme environments like a *frenched case seal pocket or wavy muffler flanges. Most stuff gets a steel gasket, my favorites, or NAFT and 518, 400 grit surface prep, shot of carb cleaner, assemble and overnight in a heated area. Case to case or metal to metal 518 only. Clam shell motors like any of the sealers. 518 must be cured first before use! No air is the key. Vac chamber speeds the process. 518 will not hold on a polished surface. If you use a wire wheel to clean the surface, you just polished it. A betting man would wager this is a major problem with so many re-builders of all kinds.
If you stick to this you will have very few adhesion or curing problems. If you do have problems it was most likely you missed a step during your prep. Go get a can of spray on etching adhesion promoter K.I.S.S.

PS
Once frozen sealers rarely cure

I've always just scotch Brite the surfaces and let cure for 4 hours which is what they say is the cure time. No problems

 

[Lightning Performance]

Scoth bright is fine and does a nice nice prep job. The high speed rotary tools creates the problem. Ever had a friend that can not get that thermostat neck to seal up? Every time he "cleans it" the metal gets less and less and shinny. The best part is they never bother to take material off near the bolt bosses on the neck lol. I love that stuff. "Go buy a chrome one man, that will work " Then it hits home real hard

 

[T.Roller]

Scoth bright is fine and does a nice nice prep job. The high speed rotary tools creates the problem. Ever had a friend that can not get that thermostat neck to seal up? Every time he "cleans it" the metal gets less and less and shinny. The best part is they never bother to take material off near the bolt bosses on the neck lol. I love that stuff. "Go buy a chrome one man, that will work " Then it hits home real hard

Yeap I just do it by hand

 

[Sty57]

Yeap I just do it by hand

Pics of you doing it by hand?

 

[T.Roller]

Pics of you doing it by hand?

Lol I better not

 

[huskihl]

Gave up on Motoseal when they changed it in the eighties. Worthless, goes on like hot piss thin JB Weld.

Permatex black on case corners to rubber seals or other gaskets like clam shell motors, RTV high heat red for rubber bits to whatever, grey for cork or case to gasket or water wet work and copper for all your exhaust and extreme environments like a *frenched case seal pocket or wavy muffler flanges. Most stuff gets a steel gasket, my favorites, or NAFT and 518, 400 grit surface prep, shot of carb cleaner, assemble and overnight in a heated area. Case to case or metal to metal 518 only. Clam shell motors like any of the sealers. 518 must be cured first before use! No air is the key. Vac chamber speeds the process. 518 will not hold on a polished surface. If you use a wire wheel to clean the surface, you just polished it. A betting man would wager this is a major problem with so many re-builders of all kinds.
If you stick to this you will have very few adhesion or curing problems. If you do have problems it was most likely you missed a step during your prep. Go get a can of spray on etching adhesion promoter K.I.S.S.

PS
Once frozen sealers rarely cure

Thin or not, motoseal works fine. I get the piston started in the cylinder, smear motoseal on the case side only with a q tip, and bolt the jug down. I'd rather the sealant be wet still so it actually bonds to both surfaces. I always wipe both surfaces with carb cleaner first.

Of the 2 tubes I've gone through in 2 years, it still cures after it freezes every night and thaws every day I'm out there.

 

[MG porting]

Yep it's flipping back needs a new drum. Ug.

 

[Cut4fun]

Finally finished testing the PP415 65cc I picked up from a closing shop. Ran fine at full throttle in the cuts but couldnt get it to idle very long before it stopped. All the tuning in the world no help. So I started digging.
Suppose to have been ready to cut. He said he had been in the carb. Well maybe he was. But the fulcrum was bent side ways and the carb kit was getting real iffy.
So cleaned carb and put new kit in it. Still same problem.
Being I had a 2083 that I had just rebuilt the carb and knew it was known good I swapped it in. Good to go.
Figured the L side has some blockage somewhere.
65cc with 24" full comp buried in dry ash. 100% satisfied with it now.

 

[cus_deluxe]

The ptex anearobic gasket maker (same as loctite 518) hasnt shown any problems after being frozen for two winters straight. Ive done a half dozen plastic clamshell jobs with it and no issues. Ive never let it cure longer than it takes to put the rest of the saw together and fire it up. Havent had a failure yet