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What's on your bench?

MustangMike

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so what made you lead to the coil

What else was left? Plus, a long time ago my 044 acted similarly, and it was the coil. If the secondary winding goes bad, but the primary is fine, the saw will kick, or start, but not accelerate.

Unfortunately, a 660 had similar symptoms, and it was the carb float lever set too high, so you just don't know!

But, it has to be something!!! I checked the piston cause I was sure it was fried, but it was not!
 

MustangMike

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the carb on the 461 is a walbro 50a does it have a larger venturi than a hd16 or 17

Tell you the truth I don't think so, but I did not even check. The 461 carb has two pins (instead of just one) coming out from the choke lever, allowing the choke to function with a shorter plastic control lever. When you use a 461 control lever with a 460 carb, it just grazes the choke lever.

I drilled a 45 degree hole and added a metal pin to make it work on one of my 460s. I think one of the reasons it was sold was they could not get it to start. If you don't look at the carb w/o the filter on, you don't know the choke is not on.
 

Magnumitis

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Christine
 

Stump Shot

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Well, two things made it on and off my bench today, but nothin was easy!

First, a MS 461 comes in to me. Saw will start & idle, but won't take the fuel. Figure it has to be tune up or carb. Start with a full tune up, NG. So, even though the fuel looks good, dumped & replaced, still NG. So I see evidence that the carb was rebuilt by the same place that rebuilt that 660 carb, and that saw fell on it's face also. So I figure I know what the problem is, lever is too high.

Rip carb apart, check lever, it is perfect! Some dirt in the carb, clean it out and reinstall, still NG ... AAAAHHHHHGGGG!!!!

Swap carb with a 460! Did you know that a 461 has a different carb & control lever??? So now I got to swap the control lever to get the choke to work ... still NNNNGGGG!!!!!!!

So I figure it must be the vent, and I know I purchased extras, WTF are they???? Finally find them, and it is not it!!!!

Then I swap the coil with a 460, and wallah ... All is OK!!!!

But now I feel obligated to make the 461 a 461 again, so the original carb and control lever go back on!

(Hey, now I know why my one 460 would not activate the choke till I modded it. I thought it was an AM control lever, no, just a 461 on a 460!)

So then I look at the 201-T that has been apart and in a box for over a month cause the clutch drum is back ordered. So I call a few shops, and I finally find one that has the drum in stock. It is 20 min each way, and they charge more, but WTF, they have it, so I do it. I'm in the process of installing it, and the local shop calls me to let me know that Stihl has shipped the drum!!!! Had to tell them, sorry, too late!!!!

But I got both saws done, so I felt OK!

What else was left? Plus, a long time ago my 044 acted similarly, and it was the coil. If the secondary winding goes bad, but the primary is fine, the saw will kick, or start, but not accelerate.

Unfortunately, a 660 had similar symptoms, and it was the carb float lever set too high, so you just don't know!

But, it has to be something!!! I checked the piston cause I was sure it was fried, but it was not!

Unless you have one already, a spark checker tool (one that makes the spark jump a 5mm air gap) can save a lot of time and frustration with coils that only halfheartedly work.
 

peter92

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What else was left? Plus, a long time ago my 044 acted similarly, and it was the coil. If the secondary winding goes bad, but the primary is fine, the saw will kick, or start, but not accelerate.

Unfortunately, a 660 had similar symptoms, and it was the carb float lever set too high, so you just don't know!

But, it has to be something!!! I checked the piston cause I was sure it was fried, but it was not!
oh , havent had any thing to do with those coils yet , good to remember
 

Sty57

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Unless you have one already, a spark checker tool (one that makes the spark jump a 5mm air gap) can save a lot of time and frustration with coils that only halfheartedly work.
Steve are you talking one of the inline deals?
Pics.....
 

Stump Shot

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Stump Shot

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@MustangMike , @peter92 and @Sty57

There are many kinds of spark checkers, the ones on the left are for a running engine, lets you see an intermittent spark. The ones on the right mimic the spark under compression by jumping a longer than normal gap in the open air. On the far right the Rotary tool diagnoses problems a little further with different lights. The Husqvarna tool is like the old industry standard looks like a spark plug with a clip on it also made by OTC and Lisle. Stihl has a couple of dandy units adjustable to match settings in the Stihl repair manual. Also speaking of an ohm meter can be used to check some of the older Stihl coils as per the manual. Look up coil tester or spark checker on E-bay and you will find as many as you can stand, local auto parts place should have something too. Prices ten buck and on up depending on what one you want.
 
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