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Duce

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Member asked about buying complete 365/372 clone. Here is my take. Why not buy a used complete saw and rebuild. Clone saw + or - $150 plus $100 shipping. Purchased complete 365 for $180, Nachi bearings $18, Caber rings $14, Hyway gasket and seals $10 plus small amout of Motoseal. Clutch side bearing let go, slight vertical scratch on cylinder and piston, but runs well. Also have old style oem 48mm cylinder and new meteor piston waiting if it melts down, Total $222 and $65 for waiting p/c. Sitting next to it, is a 372xp non x-torq $246 in it. Purchased an oem p/c off of e-bay, person sent me a 48mm cylinder (stamp removed) and 50mm piston, both in nice condition. Started to use it on 372 build and quest what, used a new Hyway p/c from HL. Lesson learned, check parts and just don't putIMG_7424.JPG IMG_7425.JPG IMG_7422.JPG IMG_7427.JPG IMG_7423.JPG on shelf and assume (my bad). My conclusion is, why not use good used oem parts, check them over, end up with a better saw. In his post, I stated did not care for am cases, here is why and had it happen more than once. Do not care for am air filters either. 365 is ready for tune, waiting on two small parts for 372.
 

peter92

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Member asked about buying complete 365/372 clone. Here is my take. Why not buy a used complete saw and rebuild. Clone saw + or - $150 plus $100 shipping. Purchased complete 365 for $180, Nachi bearings $18, Caber rings $14, Hyway gasket and seals $10 plus small amout of Motoseal. Clutch side bearing let go, slight vertical scratch on cylinder and piston, but runs well. Also have old style oem 48mm cylinder and new meteor piston waiting if it melts down, Total $222 and $65 for waiting p/c. Sitting next to it, is a 372xp non x-torq $246 in it. Purchased an oem p/c off of e-bay, person sent me a 48mm cylinder (stamp removed) and 50mm piston, both in nice condition. Started to use it on 372 build and quest what, used a new Hyway p/c from HL. Lesson learned, check parts and just don't putView attachment 49391 View attachment 49392 View attachment 49393 View attachment 49394 View attachment 49395 on shelf and assume (my bad). My conclusion is, why not use good used oem parts, check them over, end up with a better saw. In his post, I stated did not care for am cases, here is why and had it happen more than once. Do not care for am air filters either. 365 is ready for tune, waiting on two small parts for 372.
so your saying , it *s-word
 

beaglebriar

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Member asked about buying complete 365/372 clone. Here is my take. Why not buy a used complete saw and rebuild. Clone saw + or - $150 plus $100 shipping. Purchased complete 365 for $180, Nachi bearings $18, Caber rings $14, Hyway gasket and seals $10 plus small amout of Motoseal. Clutch side bearing let go, slight vertical scratch on cylinder and piston, but runs well. Also have old style oem 48mm cylinder and new meteor piston waiting if it melts down, Total $222 and $65 for waiting p/c. Sitting next to it, is a 372xp non x-torq $246 in it. Purchased an oem p/c off of e-bay, person sent me a 48mm cylinder (stamp removed) and 50mm piston, both in nice condition. Started to use it on 372 build and quest what, used a new Hyway p/c from HL. Lesson learned, check parts and just don't putView attachment 49391 View attachment 49392 View attachment 49393 View attachment 49394 View attachment 49395 on shelf and assume (my bad). My conclusion is, why not use good used oem parts, check them over, end up with a better saw. In his post, I stated did not care for am cases, here is why and had it happen more than once. Do not care for am air filters either. 365 is ready for tune, waiting on two small parts for 372.
I see those clones are selling for almost $500 on eBay when you figure in the shipping. For the life of me a can't figure out why someone would pay that much.

I just picked up a rough looking 372 for $160.00. It's gonna need another 150 maybe 200 in parts to get it up to snuff but it will be very nice when it's complete.

I think the clone saws appeal to the guy that can't wrench on stuff. I'd like to build one just to see what the performance is like and to see how it'd hold up.
 

srcarr52

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No, it may be ok if you do not attach a spike to it. I will not longer be purchasing am cases though, so you may be correct.

That's cracked out into the oil tank. I could weld it back shut and retap the spike hole thought.

Not on the bench but on the mill. It was spark plug weld and retap last night. 066, 064, 046, 2100.

7dcc00598da569ed43cf339338fb33fb.jpg
 

huskytime

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I tinkered on the 1100CD a bit last night. Compression is just over 150psi.

I had read some old posts from AS that said it should have a SEM flywheel/magneto. Mine has a FEMSA flywheel. Does this mean it already had the conversion from a 2100 or did maybe later 1100's come with a FEMSA?

After all the drop starting for the compression tests I put a plug in and got it to spark but not on every pull. Cleaned out the carb but it was late so I didn't try to get it to fire up.
 

Czed

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Had a little time so i dual ported one of those hl supply 288 mufflers just have to clean up the brazing some more and repaint they feel nice and solid 9.00 i think the only thing that matched the exhaust tube was a c02 cartridge lol should be able to damage both my ears at the same time now haha 20170112_142657.jpg
 

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Czed

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20170112_143829.jpg 20170112_141933.jpg these didn't need much i just thought you might like to see something different my friends alpina castor pro 41 great running little horizontal cylinder saw and a minty homelite his late grandfathers saw.20170112_141908.jpg 20170112_141851.jpg
 
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Czed

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Here's a tt500 he did from the ground up on the bottom nice bike i just hate the silver frame lol i gave him the one on top the left side of the gas tank is caved in from my knee that's when i gifted the bike to him lol
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peter92

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View attachment 49441
Had a little time so i dual ported one of those hl supply 288 mufflers just have to clean up the brazing some more and repaint they feel nice and solid 9.00 i think the only thing that matched the exhaust tube was a c02 cartridge lol should be able to damage both my ears at the same time now haha View attachment 49439
its going t be LOUD
 

MustangMike

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you can either pull it out with pliers or push it in and retrieve the hose from the tank

Thanks for the advice, a good trick to know. I removed the oiler hose from the crushed saw using your method, but when I went to do the same in the running saw, I notice I had 2 (instead of 1) rubber bushings on the upper oiler port. I removed the extra one, and walla, she is oiling.

Removed the carb limiters, put a dp muff cover on it, and all I had to do was install a new chain catcher, which I have ... but there is a broken off bolt in there!!!! This is getting frustrating! I will finish it later tonight or tomorrow, I have a Tax Appointment with a client shortly (they did not do last year), but that should go fast.
 

Mastermind

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I got this one to fix for myself, and have had it for over a year. It just has 20 hours on the clock........and a failed PTO bearing.

Today I shipped 8 saws out......and decided to fix this one before I lose it in the clutter. Runs real nice.

IMG_4052.JPG IMG_4053.JPG
 
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