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Maintenance Chief

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Definitely getting hard to find good 394’s. I did notice your missing the partition wall that goes over the intake block. It keeps heat out of the carb box. Part number 503524401. Otherwise nice complete saw, deserves a rebuild.

Yup there was peices of it ( the divider) I ordered some parts from the Duke and others.
I think with the condition of the piston and cylinder I'm gonna fore go a rebuild.
I mounted a full comp 28" bar with an 8 pin on it before cleaning it and it handled it like a fat kid with a candy bar.
 

WillG

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Picked up this Craftsman for belts, service, carb rebuild, etc.

Got the carb for the given to me BG55, put it back together and got it running and adjusted. Runs nice.

Gonna go out to the garage in a little bit and mess around with a FS75 curved shaft trimmer that was given to me too. Just need to swap out the carb, fuel lines, filter, air filter and plug. If it runs good I'll put a new head on it and put it up for sale.
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Woodslasher

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I got the starter brushes replaced in a friends quad and I may or may not be changing the oil in the rear diff before I give it back to him. Also, the Honda motor for my dad's Billygoat showed up, now I just need the pulley and blade to show up. A friends 2100 is waiting for me to tune it and I need to pressure/vac test a 350 and 235RII. Plus all my Macs need something fixed, I need to helicoil the brake flag/recoil screw hole on my 372, my 371 needs a ton of parts, I've got a wild thing I need to tinker with, and I need to find an adapter for my compression tester so I can check the comp on a Hilti chop saw.
 

Woodslasher

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I found the adapter and did a compression test on the chop saw, ~50lbs. No bueno. Also, the 235RII failed the pressure/vac test miserably, the needle would barely twitch and I could see puddled water at the cylinder base moving each time I squeezed the trigger on the tester. It needs a new piston anyways, so it'll get crank seals and a new coat of goop when I do that. What is the best Permatex/Loctite cylinder/case sealant I should use for that?
 

67L36Driver

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Messin with one of them little saws i got a while back. I think these are just as bad as the mini macs to work on. Think I found the problem. It would run but not real well. Ther is no gasket between carb and intake block. And it could.probly use a carb kit too. Who knows how long this thing has been sitting.

Also whats up with the fuel line routing. As normal the line from fuel tank goes to carb. The the other line from carb goes into the oil tank. Just thought that was kinda odd.
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No way is that line from the carb to the oil thank correct.

Cap off the spigot on the carb and plug the hole in the oil tank and try it.

Those oil the chain by pressurizing the oil tank with crankcase pulses.

Carb may be one off a model that once sported a purge bulb. [emoji848]
 

Woodslasher

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I found the adapter and did a compression test on the chop saw, ~50lbs. No bueno. Also, the 235RII failed the pressure/vac test miserably, the needle would barely twitch and I could see puddled water at the cylinder base moving each time I squeezed the trigger on the tester. It needs a new piston anyways, so it'll get crank seals and a new coat of goop when I do that. What is the best Permatex/Loctite cylinder/case sealant I should use for that?
I got lost down the Hilti ipl rabbit hole, the nearest I can figure is the cylinder for this saw is discontinued and the piston is $176! The crank bearings are $36 a pop, provided the existing ones look/feel tight I'd leave them.
 

WillG

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FS75 came to life pretty easily. New aftermarket carb, air filter and pre cleaner, OEM fuel lines (R3 fuel hose), OEM fuel filter, and a new BPMR7A. Drained, cleaned and dried the tank. Just had to adjust the carb slightly. Gonna pick up a new head for it tomorrow and see how it does. It has a funky 3 string fixed line length head on it. It can use the Autocut 11-2 which is used on the FS38, FS40 and FS45. Local True Value which is open tomorrow stocks them.

Did a little more carb tweaking on the BG55.

Carb and whatnot will be here tomorrow for the SH85. It'll be my project at mom and dad's tomorrow afternoon.
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merc_man

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No way is that line from the carb to the oil thank correct.

Cap off the spigot on the carb and plug the hole in the oil tank and try it.

Those oil the chain by pressurizing the oil tank with crankcase pulses.

Carb may be one off a model that once sported a purge bulb. [emoji848]
So what i think is going on with the carb to oil tank line is ther is an extra hole on carb. Blow in that brass lookin nipple and its a direct rout to the hole on carb that you can see in pic. (Hole closest to brass nipple). I think it is just to get the case pressure to tank.
I have 2 of these saws. I will see if the other is the same setup.
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MustangMike

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Had a MS 460 on my bench yesterday. It is a saw I brought back from the dead a few years ago with a HL Supply $20 door buster jug and a Meteor piston.

Owner loves it, and it runs VG.

It also has a replacement tank holder, but the rest of the saw is OEM.

It ate a decomp (no real damage) but I had to pull the jug to get it out. Saw ran very erratic after going back together (no base gasket).

I was worried about an air leak, so I pressure tested it. Saw held 10 lbs of both pressure and vac w/o any leak down.

I fabricated some new parts to seal the exhaust and intake from scape metal, bike tire tube, and Oak! They worked well and will come in useful in the future.

Replaced the fuel and adjusted the carb and she runs like a top ... but no oil!!!

Pulled the clutch, worm gear is stripped ... new parts on order!
 

WillG

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Stopped at True Value on the way to mom and dad's and unfortunately they were out of stock of the 11-2 heads. I figured out that the funky head is a Stihl Polycut head that someone put string on. Picked up replacement Polycut blades and got to test out the FS75. Ran great. I'll do some looking around for an 11-2 bump head.

Checked out a POS Poulan 3314 for my cousins buddy. Found that it was burnt up due to rotten fuel lines which caused a massive lean condition.
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rogue60

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Got cam seals/tappet cover gaskets/new plugs done just waiting on timing belt kit/front crank seal and water pump to show up.
In the meantime will pull the radiator rattle and pull harmonic balancer pulley.
It's a stock/original 1993 s13 200sx the engine is a CA18DET only done 68k miles the seals due too age have gone rock hard and leaking was getting worse spent a good hr degreasing the front of the motor before doing the cam seals it was a mess.
Will pull the motor out down the track to replace the rear crank seal it's not leaking yet but is only a matter of time and it will be!.

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MustangMike

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Had a 066 Round Top (decomp) on my bench yesterday. P+C are burned.

Owner purchased a Big Bore kit for it.

I told him I would rather "save and re use" the original cylinder.

Pulled it yesterday, it is AM! Guess I will be using the BB kit!

Tried to do a pressure test, but the spark plug kept leaking! Will put a different cylinder on! I put it away for now, had enough of it!
 

brandonstclair20

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Messin with one of them little saws i got a while back. I think these are just as bad as the mini macs to work on. Think I found the problem. It would run but not real well. Ther is no gasket between carb and intake block. And it could.probly use a carb kit too. Who knows how long this thing has been sitting.

Also whats up with the fuel line routing. As normal the line from fuel tank goes to carb. The the other line from carb goes into the oil tank. Just thought that was kinda odd.
bcdb8cd01f5433c72bdaa8a1651dfbf3.jpg
eab2da327834e42b8df615a61954c389.jpg


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The one I fixed for a neighbor had two lines coming out of the oil tank, one went to the case and the other went to the bar pad area. Only line going to carb came out of the gas tank.


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