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What's on your bench?

Sagebrush33

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View attachment 294618 What’s on my bench? A disaster zone!!!!!! What a mess!
Every time I rebuild a saw it looks like this, before that every tool has its place. I just can’t seem to get organized for saw rebuilds, I’m good at keeping tools in their place while I’m working at work, just not at home.
3400 just rebuilt, new bearings, seals, new piston rings and piston pin bearings. Cleaned up the jug pretty good, blocked off the auto oiler port to the crankcase, don’t trust the pump to not have an air leak. This will be a manually oiling saw only.
Excited to fire her up, tomorrow hopefully
Your definitely kneedeepinsomethin.... :D
Yunck, yunck, yunk.
I get it though. After your done at work, and keeping a clean shop for better production, who has the time to do the same at home?
 

Sagebrush33

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Had this crapsman mower dropped off yesterday. Im the 3rd idiot to have a look at it to see why it won't crank over. Was told its gotta be the starter as it seems the starter doesn't have enough ass to roll the motor over. After checking voltage to the starter motor, I popped the valve cover off and there it was. Rockers were so loose, the built in compression release couldn't do its job so the starter was trying to start the engine under full compression which it can't. Fires up now. Just waiting for the battery to fully charge and outta here it goes
Reminds me of about 12 yrs ago when I was helping a buddy out in his body/fabrication shop. It was winter time so I had time and gave him my off days. He had a mid '60s Dodge panel truck all redone with a freshly built BB Chevy in it. Since it was a project truck it saw work in stages then would sit for a couple weeks. One day it would not start. I put number 1 on TDC and the distributor checked out good. It was getting spark and fuel. It would pop and sputter. I guess he thought I didn't know my way around an engine because he had two "mechanics" come in with no success. He brings me a MSD distributor in the box and asks me to swap it out. Says the one in it is a Chinese knock off. Told him that wasn't the problem but I did it anyway. Again, it was to no avail. I told him the plugs looked like crap. He said, ''but they're new, it should run." He was at his wits end. Next morning he say's what can I do to help you get this running. " Give me a lead wire with a momentary push button switch, and 30-40 mins to myself." I checked TDC again and started pulling plug wires checking for spark. All good. I noticed some cylinders were and some were not firing. I could tell by grabbing the primary tubes on the headers and felt hot or cold. I switched 2 plugs and the temp of the tubes switched too.
I go in the corner of the shop and pull 8 plugs from another BB on the floor. Swap the chitty Autolites for the AC Delcos, and it fired right up. He comes runnin in from the office. "Get yourself new AC Delcos and trow these Autolites in the trash. They are aftermarket Ford plugs.'' I then adjusted the rich running Holley and adjusted ignition timing. He never doubted me again.
 
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Woodslasher

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Your definitely kneedeepinsomethin.... :D
Yunck, yunck, yunk.
I get it though. After your done at work, and keeping a clean shop for better production, who has the time to do the same at home?
Every month or two I'll devote an evening to cleaning the bench, it saves me many a headache. That being said, as soon as my brother's auto paint leaves one bay I'll be getting my own bench with built in lights and outlets! No more dodging the drill press, no more cleaning other people's stuff/dirt from my workspace, no more unplugging the grinder to plug in the radio, just brightly lit euphoria! Plus, I'll be using the bay whose lights don't interfere with radio reception! :aaaaa:
 

Maintenance Chief

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Took a .050 Stihl bar on trade ,minus the sprocket nose.
So this morning I installed a. 404 stihl nose and spun a loop of .050 .404 square chisel AL50 Oregon ,from 80DLs to 76DLs.
I think I could have gotten away with 77DLs because the loop was a little tight but I didn't have to remove the rim to get it mounted , I have a limited number of presets so it'll shorter.20210516_111742.jpg 20210516_111922.jpg
 

WillG

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Picked these up this morning. Both are no starts. Both fired on carb cleaner. Should be straight forward carb cleans and fresh fuel. Gonna rebuild dad's Vermont Castings grill later on with new burners and heat tents. The push mower is a high end one with all wheel drive.
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Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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Maintenance Chief

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Just a heads up...about 1/2 that much sealant on one surface works well
Those thin edges of that cylnder made me nervous! I normally don't use that much and it took about 40min for it to develop a good firm skin before assembling. I did smooth it up a little after the pictures but I still used a liberal amount on this one.
So you only do one of the surfaces?
 

Woodslasher

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Took a .050 Stihl bar on trade ,minus the sprocket nose.
So this morning I installed a. 404 stihl nose and spun a loop of .050 .404 square chisel AL50 Oregon ,from 80DLs to 76DLs.
I think I could have gotten away with 77DLs because the loop was a little tight but I didn't have to remove the rim to get it mounted , I have a limited number of presets so it'll shorter.View attachment 294717 View attachment 294716
Looking good! I'm glad to see someone getting use out of that rather than just seeing it sit on my shelf with 30 other bars.
 

Maintenance Chief

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.404 in .050 is difficult chain to find.
I got a partial 25' roll about a year ago and some other loops from members on here.
I mostly run it on my Pro Mac 700s and big Homelites , finding bars can be a chore in 063 gauge for those saws.
 

Woodslasher

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D176 mount
Dang, I woulda had a few bars for you if they were 196's. In other news, I replaced the fuel lines and filter on a buddy's weedeater and will be giving it a carb kit as soon as I finish my final paper. Also, I put new a/v in another friend's 235 RII in place of the creative baling wire fix and I washed some Mac parts.
FullSizeRender 2.jpeg FullSizeRender.jpeg IMG_6716.jpeg IMG_6722.jpeg
 

huskihl

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Those thin edges of that cylnder made me nervous! I normally don't use that much and it took about 40min for it to develop a good firm skin before assembling. I did smooth it up a little after the pictures but I still used a liberal amount on this one.
So you only do one of the surfaces?
Yes. And I assemble it as soon as I can. I understand your theory for letting It set up a little bit, but I also like the idea of not having a hard skin on it so that the liquid portion can still stick to the cylinder after assembly. I put on barely enough that I can’t see through it on The case and set the cylinder down on it
 

Agent Smith

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I do just the case side. Thin layer of 1184 with a q-tip and I try stay a 1/16 or so away from the inner edge so when it squishes out, it doesn't mush all into the bottom end. Knock on wood haven't had a leak yet
 

Woodslasher

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I've been asked to re-power a Billy Goat HW650SP with a Briggs and Stratton 122672-0128-E1 with a Honda equivalent. Do I need to worry about the output shaft/pulley size or could I just get a comparable Honda engine and find a new belt/pulley as I go?
 

Maintenance Chief

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Yes. And I assemble it as soon as I can. I understand your theory for letting It set up a little bit, but I also like the idea of not having a hard skin on it so that the liquid portion can still stick to the cylinder after assembly. I put on barely enough that I can’t see through it on The case and set the cylinder down on it

I'll have to try that on the next one. Honestly I just watched someone else do it and copied the procedure from them , who doesn't have alot of failure.
 
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