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Moparmyway

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Actually the rods most likely go through a high frequency electrical induction heater as they are assembled .That's called in the auto engine business as "running the colors " . I've seen that many a time .
I’ve seen it on NIB rods here & there too, problem is it’s not on every one.

I agree with Mason, it did get hot at some time of it’s life, but it’s still got life left in her !!

These 120cc saws need more oil than most think, just my opinion, but 32:1 or better is necessary, especially after porting !


Guys at work whisper things like "dont touch his saw ,hes particular about them"
About me. I use them hard but sometimes I'm out in the shed till dark cleaning them up , makes me sleep better.
Most of that goopy stuff is due to the excellent seal at the muffler flange ..............
 

Lsf

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New AV rubbers for my 026 late model (I bought it used in 1999). I think oem is clearly better.
026260.jpg

chinaoriginal.jpg
 

stihl_head1982

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View attachment 268695 View attachment 268696
Garage sale 026 bought as a non running saw for 5$, cylinder is perfect with machine marks on piston still. Went through carb and metering lever was set so high the diaphragm was held against the cover so after that it ran but had air leak. New crank seals and impulse line pressure and vacuum tested well. Gave it a bit of timing while I was changing seals now time to put up for sale.

How much did you take off the woodruff key.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Press those Bakelite seals in. Don’t tap on them. Ask me how I know....
View attachment 269399
I read about using 026 seals instead for the 200’s and last one I did that’s what I did. I was having issues with the Bakelite seals sealing. I did press in and no key in crank when assembling but they were good for about 2 weeks and lost seal again. The bottom end was redid all the way with oem bearings too.
 

redlight066

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I read about using 026 seals instead for the 200’s and last one I did that’s what I did. I was having issues with the Bakelite seals sealing. I did press in and no key in crank when assembling but they were good for about 2 weeks and lost seal again. The bottom end was redid all the way with oem bearings too.
Did you install the seal facing toward the bearing? I forgot to mention that part. It's a little counter intuitive compared to traditional seals.

The 201 seals are the same size and are the traditional metal/rubber style. I believe there is a height clearance issue with either the flywheel or the worm gear. It's been a while. I remember one failed right away. Maybe I didn't drive it in far enough. I was on a roll destroying the bakelite seals. Had to change my ways.
 

Xr650jkallen

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I got one similar to that a few months ago. Big number and no other markings.
From what I have found online, these look real similar to a Buffalo. I reckon they were imported from Taiwan in the 70s. It's still alot heavier than any imported ones you can get nowadays. I might semi-restore it. I picked it up for 135$ and I dont feel to bad. The 100$ 6" at lowes weighs have this.
 

WillG

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Didn't do much today. Did the final leaf chop/mow and blow of the lawn. Tested the BR600 and it ran flawless. Prepped for cutting with dad. Mixed-up a fresh can of Red Armor 40:1 and fueled and oiled up the 55 and 340/346. Made some cuts with the 55 and it runs and cuts sweet. Got the 18" chain and I'll have the bar Tuesday, which I'll probably swap before cutting. I'd like to see how it does 18" .325. KIMG2854.JPG
 

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tickbitintn

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