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MustangMike

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Not close minded Jeff, just there is more than one way to skin a cat, and either one will work if done correctly!

At the time I was under the gun to get it working so I could use it and had no time to run to the store to buy stuff I did not have.

Bottom line, if the lights work, it does not matter how you did it. It's just a wood trailer!
 

Bilge Rat

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Copper exposed to air/moisture will corrode.
Look at connections inside an older house, even inside copper corrodes.

Wire nuts are designed for solid wire. Stranded wire twists and breaks. Crimped connections should be used on stranded wire.
Low voltage stranded wire has many small strands that will break when twisted. Without strain relief at the connection vibration from driving down the road will break wires.

Use what makes you happy.
Me i am lazy, i do the job once and on to the next one.
 

DuratecMan10

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Not close minded Jeff, just there is more than one way to skin a cat, and either one will work if done correctly!

At the time I was under the gun to get it working so I could use it and had no time to run to the store to buy stuff I did not have.

Bottom line, if the lights work, it does not matter how you did it. It's just a wood trailer!

Amen to that!


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DuratecMan10

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I had one of them go bad from sitting for 1-2 years with gas that had a lot of stabilizer stuff in it. They seem designed to go bad. I've seen a chainsaw fire up after sitting 15yrs with the same old gas.

Absolutely. This one was a mess, sat for about a year and was clogged all the way from the fuel line. Snapper 22". I cleaned it and blew everything out and voila. Older carbs like on my Honda GC series and Poulans will start up with old gas old sp ect. Newer ones get finicky with one little piece of dirt lol.


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DuratecMan10

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I had one of them go bad from sitting for 1-2 years with gas that had a lot of stabilizer stuff in it. They seem designed to go bad. I've seen a chainsaw fire up after sitting 15yrs with the same old gas.

Absolutely. This one was a mess, sat for about a year and was clogged all the way from the fuel line. Snapper 22". I cleaned it and blew everything out and voila. Older carbs like on my Honda GC series and Poulans will start up with old gas old sp ect. Newer ones get finicky with one little piece of dirt lol.


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WillG

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Oil pressure sensor replacement on a pair of 200 hp Evinrude ETECs. Customer was getting a no oil code on the starboard engine, diagnosed the sensor, replaced both per customer request as it's a commercial boat.
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MustangMike

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Copper exposed to air/moisture will corrode.
Look at connections inside an older house, even inside copper corrodes.

Wire nuts are designed for solid wire. Stranded wire twists and breaks. Crimped connections should be used on stranded wire.
Low voltage stranded wire has many small strands that will break when twisted. Without strain relief at the connection vibration from driving down the road will break wires.

Use what makes you happy.
Me i am lazy, i do the job once and on to the next one.

OK, I knew the first part, but not the rest of it. As I mentioned, I did spray the wires before wire nutting (used Fluid Film, which lasts a long time) and I did electric tape the nuts well to also slow corrosion.

However, if I have to do it again, I'll use your method based on the information provided. Most of my electrical "experience" was in building my house, which involved solid wires. Learn something every day!

I know in general wire nutting lasts better/longer if you really make them tight!
 

Bilge Rat

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Stranded wire that is soldered and shrink-wrapped protected would be better. It all works Mike.
Solder makes a good connection on low resistance low current connections.
The downside on soldering wire connections is you have a hard spot and some annealing of the wire. Any vibration will crack/break the wires at the edge of the soldered area.
In high current/heat situations solder will soften and increase resistance causing more heat then the smoke get out and it's broke.

Code says solder cannot be used as the primary connection for wiring.
You can crimp then run some solder into the crimp.
The problem is you have now added another metal to the mix which can cause corrosion on its own.
Very small voltage differences even with the circuit off can cause this corrosion.
Zinc anodes on boats help bleed this off.
Electricity is weird, we use it but it sometimes ain't logical.

I have learned a lot from people smarter than me.
I am not in any way saying anyone is wrong or i am right. I am just passing on what i have learned that may help someone else.
I have learned a lot from this group and only want to pass on what little knowledge i may have.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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2F7ED9A4-97E4-4CEF-BC76-8E06A854298D.jpeg Its done, its been weeks but its done...
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2018 372 xtorq converted to original edition (50mm)
I got the rest of the parts today and installed them. Had to make some adjustments to get the carb heating components to fit properly. There are two devices, one on the metering diaphragm and one on the intake between the horn and the carb body. I think one is a thermistor switch that completes the heating element (part that attaches to the metering diaphram” circuit. This is possibly how it is not on all the time when turned on? Anyone that can shed light on this I would be interested to hear your thoughts.
Anyways the part that fits between the carb and the horn had to be flipped to the other side, the leads were interfering with the choke operation. I also had to change the ground connection.
The part that attaches to the diaphragm would not fit with the x torq carb bracket, but i ordered the old style bracket and it fit perfectly.

the xtorq heat shield had to be trimmed on the upper corner portion in order for the original edition top cover to fit properly.
Finally the impulse tube was far too ling and had to be trimmed


parts list as follows for anyone who wants to do the same

meteor piston+cylinder kit

walbro wt12 carb

husky OEM original edition parts
boot
Carb bolts X2
Carb bolt ‘pipes’ or sleeves X2
Air horn
Choke lever (xtorq one too short just slightly)
Top cover kit (comes with screws and air filter cover and all the safety stickers already on)
Carb adjustment rubber sleeve for top cover
Metal ring for air horn (goes inside)

china parts

Unlimited coil

threw on my old 28” bar (has a slight bend to it) idles ok but get it to idle steady.. still trying to find a sweet spot.
How many turns are you guys getting out on your low jet before you start messing with the idle screw? One turn out seems too lean as i cant get it to idle steady..
sounds good otherwise, ill have to play around with it some more and see.
 
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