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Nothing means nothing.
You just said a lot of nothingNothing means nothing.
A richer mix ratio has less fuel. But I wouldn’t think that change would make that much of a difference but I could be wrong. Lots of variables man!Tuned the neighbors milling saw at 12,500 rpm. It was filled with 32:1 of my lucas/90 octane mix.
We double checked things in the cut. It was an 18 ft long cut in a 16 inch wide spruce slab. After the cut I put a tach on it while it was warm: 11,500 rpms. His fuel mix is 24:1 lucas. Checed air filter, it was clean.
What is actually causing a saw to loose rpms between the different mix ratios?
I also believe that moderate cutting of trees with a cold engine is better than idlingI liked red bulls testing also. However I haven’t seen any lately.
What I did take from eggs tests was some oil is just good. Yes it has flaws but. Some info could be taken in my opinion.
When I start a saw I have a couple that need to be “blipped” sorta hit the throttle. Not make unnecessary noise but just enough to keep ‘em running. Start the first cut a little on the gentle side Then give it to her good. Kinda like… yeah never mind![]()
I don't care for red armor:Having been an Echo/Shindaiwa dealer for the past 15 years I can honestly say that my customers running Red Armor at 50:1 or 40:1 (what I personally recommend) have very few to no oil or carbon related failures.
Yep. I use it for everything that sits for more than a month. 2 or 4 cycle.One recent thing that seems to be popular with 2 stroke oil complaints, is oil residual. If something sets for a long period of time, anybody ever heard of fogging oil?
I don't care for red armor:
1.Exhaust fumes smell like sht.
2. It's insanely expensive and there's only a single place that carries it: home depot fairbanks.
3. Rarely is it stock
4. In below zero weather, the crank residual turn to the consistency of bubble gum, making the larger cc saws extremely hard to start.
Running a fleet of 2 stroke stuff: ice auger, snowmobiles, trimer, brush cutter, saws, I'm not going to put the saws on a special wittle boutique oil. Gawd I get tired of hearing about echo red armor.
What is up with these echo goobers, they're everywhere!
Jzus cripes yer getting old. When a man starts fogging his engines, it is time for a mid life crisis.Yep. I use it for everything that sits for more than a month. 2 or 4 cycle.
Red armor is a *b-word when it’s cold. You are correct. I use it. It was the blend of the month a few years ago. I bought a gallon for 65$ maybe a little high but I wasn’t too upset about itI don't care for red armor:
1.Exhaust fumes smell like sht.
2. It's insanely expensive and there's only a single place that carries it: home depot fairbanks.
3. Rarely is it stock
4. In below zero weather, the crank residual turn to the consistency of bubble gum, making the larger cc saws extremely hard to start.
Running a fleet of 2 stroke stuff: ice auger, snowmobiles, trimer, brush cutter, saws, I'm not going to put the saws on a special wittle boutique oil. Gawd I get tired of hearing about echo red armor.
What is up with these echo goobers, they're everywhere! (Just joking bud)
Price, availability, and compatibility across a fleet, injector or pre mix. Those are my priorities. Even if my saws sounded like a fkn baby rattle at 3-4 years time, I still wouldn't switch to red armor.
I love a good cr500. Sold my last one during covid for a stupid price.Jzus cripes yer getting old. When a man starts fogging his engines, it is time for a mid life crisis.
CR 500 with port work and pipe??
A young honey thats down for anything and doesn't give a fk?
Maybe both?
I always wanted to build one into a supermoto. Saw a street legal CR500 built on an aluminum frame and plated in Michigan, and then registered in Wisconsin.I love a good cr500. Sold my last one during covid for a stupid price.
When I moved from Michigan to Montana the DMV asked me if ai wanted to plate my CR500 AF and Yamaha Banshee. Of course I said yes.I always wanted to build one into a supermoto. Saw a street legal CR500 built on an aluminum frame and plated in Michigan, and then registered in Wisconsin.
Practical? No
Tons of fun? For sure
Actually the latest testing on viscosity in the real world is pointing towards it's very important. Apart from a thicker oil has a better ring seal and producing measurable hp gains, thicker oil also offers superior engine wear protection over thin oils.The majority of the testing was at 100:1, 200:1, and 300:1. Later tests went straight to 300:1.
Probably the single biggest takeaway is viscosity literally means nothing. The add pack is what makes or breaks an oil. Amsoil Dominator is a very thin oil, in fact it is the lowest viscosity oil that placed first in the testing.
Actually the latest testing on viscosity in the real world is pointing towards it's very important. Apart from a thicker oil has a better ring seal and producing measurable hp gains, thicker oil also offers superior engine wear protection over thin oils.
There are companies with all the expensive equipment and knowledge testing all this.
Testing also shows once an engine is up to operating temperature any parasitic loss of a thicker oil goes away.
I believe top fuelers run a straight 70-80 weight oil. Whoever said viscosity means nothing is guessing at best lol