What oil is best? and what ratio?

[Onan18]

Having been an Echo/Shindaiwa dealer for the past 15 years I can honestly say that my customers running Red Armor at 50:1 or 40:1 (what I personally recommend) have very few to no oil or carbon related failures.

 

[whitesnake]

Having been an Echo/Shindaiwa dealer for the past 15 years I can honestly say that my customers running Red Armor at 50:1 or 40:1 (what I personally recommend) have very few to no oil or carbon related failures.

How about the power blend? Never hear much about it. I got enough here to mix up probably 5 gallons at 40:1. I could save it for the trimmer but with the white stuff on the ground that will be a while.

 

[mrxlh]

What ratio was the lucas tested at?

It's a very thin oil and the flash point isn't very high. These 2 reasons are why I like it in the below zero weather. It pours from a jug at 30-40 below zero. I can also get a snowmobile to start in these cold temps.

The majority of the testing was at 100:1, 200:1, and 300:1. Later tests went straight to 300:1.

Probably the single biggest takeaway is viscosity literally means nothing. The add pack is what makes or breaks an oil. Amsoil Dominator is a very thin oil, in fact it is the lowest viscosity oil that placed first in the testing.

 

[Mastermind]

What ratio was the lucas tested at?

It's a very thin oil and the flash point isn't very high. These 2 reasons are why I like it in the below zero weather. It pours from a jug at 30-40 below zero. I can also get a snowmobile to start in these cold temps.

Napa, oriley, auto zone all seem to have it which is convenient. It's well priced @ $9.99 a quart.

With the oil being as thin as it is, i thought 32:1 was proper for all the hand held stuff.

Then in the saws, after 25 gallons of mixed fuel, milling, cutting down stumps and all sorts of cutting, I haven't had an issue with the lucas oil. 8 saws total.

I think March 1st will be the 1 year mark on that cs 590 used 3-5 days a week.

The issue that some people had with eggys testing was that he tried these oils at 200, and 300:1. Yamalube 2R also did very poorly at those ratios. I have used gallons of mix using 2R, and had absolutely no issues. Why I switched to Dominator was due to the crisp tune I was able to get with it, not because Yamalube wasn't usable at 300:1.

 

[mrxlh]

The issue that some people had with eggys testing was that he tried these oils at 200, and 300:1. Yamalube 2R also did very poorly at those ratios. I have used gallons of mix using 2R, and had absolutely no issues. Why I switched to Dominator was due to the crisp tune I was able to get with it, not because Yamalube wasn't usable at 300:1.

The 14 or so Karen’s in that thread had all sorts of issues with his testing. Some got mad simply because the oil they liked got beat. Some said the test specimens weren’t relevant because they weren’t $1600 ported saws…

When a 2 stroke develops an air leak, one thing is for certain, it never goes rich, it always, always goes lean… Very few here would continue to run saws with air leaks on purpose, other than to finish a cut. Why not have the best protection in that scenario?

The real travesty is he left and all the Karen’s remained, just as useless and argumentative as ever, kinda sad really.

 

[Mastermind]

The 14 or so Karen’s in that thread had all sorts of issues with his testing. Some got mad simply because the oil they liked got beat. Some said the test specimens weren’t relevant because they weren’t $1600 ported saws…

When a 2 stroke develops an air leak, one thing is for certain, it never goes rich, it always, always goes lean… Very few here would continue to run saws with air leaks on purpose, other than to finish a cut. Why not have the best protection in that scenario?

The real travesty is he left and all the Karen’s remained, just as useless and argumentative as ever, kinda sad really.

I enjoyed his tests myself. But yeah....you ain't wrong.

 

[Onan18]

How about the power blend? Never hear much about it. I got enough here to mix up probably 5 gallons at 40:1. I could save it for the trimmer but with the white stuff on the ground that will be a while.

Powerblend is excellent from a lubrication standpoint but the additive package, particularly the detergent, is no where near where Red Armor is so be prepared to clean carbon from your exhaust port regularly.

It is still FD rated however and still provides excellent protection, just is not as clean burning.

 

[bwalker]

The 14 or so Karen’s in that thread had all sorts of issues with his testing. Some got mad simply because the oil they liked got beat. Some said the test specimens weren’t relevant because they weren’t $1600 ported saws…

When a 2 stroke develops an air leak, one thing is for certain, it never goes rich, it always, always goes lean… Very few here would continue to run saws with air leaks on purpose, other than to finish a cut. Why not have the best protection in that scenario?

The real travesty is he left and all the Karen’s remained, just as useless and argumentative as ever, kinda sad really.

The Karen's may have had some valid points, no?
Did you see pics after the tests?
I can say for certain a trimmer ran unloaded doesn't approximate the load of a chainsaw and not close. I can also say for certain that running 200 or 300:1 doesn't tell you much about what happens at 50:1 or less.
RedBull661's testing was in many respects much better.
I obvious also needs to be stated. There are industry standard testing that assures quality. The JASO FD tests standard.
Also don't you guys find it a bit strange we stress about oil that is used in cheap, practically disposable and extremely low HP output engines?

 

[bwalker]

The 14 or so Karen’s in that thread had all sorts of issues with his testing. Some got mad simply because the oil they liked got beat. Some said the test specimens weren’t relevant because they weren’t $1600 ported saws…

When a 2 stroke develops an air leak, one thing is for certain, it never goes rich, it always, always goes lean… Very few here would continue to run saws with air leaks on purpose, other than to finish a cut. Why not have the best protection in that scenario?

The real travesty is he left and all the Karen’s remained, just as useless and argumentative as ever, kinda sad really.

Using that rational we would all be running castor oil at 16:1. Just in
case we get an air leak.

 

[bwalker]

The issue that some people had with eggys testing was that he tried these oils at 200, and 300:1. Yamalube 2R also did very poorly at those ratios. I have used gallons of mix using 2R, and had absolutely no issues. Why I switched to Dominator was due to the crisp tune I was able to get with it, not because Yamalube wasn't usable at 300:1.

If you told the motocross or kart world Yam 2R is junk because it failed some guys weed wacker test they would laugh at you.
The fact of the matter is it probaly has the longest track record of any of the oils discussed in this thread. The Jaso FC and FD oils we have today to a one use the same sort of formulation IE a PIB and lighter oil blend.

 

[Partner]

Having been an Echo/Shindaiwa dealer for the past 15 years I can honestly say that my customers running Red Armor at 50:1 or 40:1 (what I personally recommend) have very few to no oil or carbon related failures.

"Your chainsaw" scrolls a bit too long, don't be offended, but it's unnecessary spam

 

[mrxlh]

Powerblend is excellent from a lubrication standpoint but the additive package, particularly the detergent, is no where near where Red Armor is so be prepared to clean carbon from your exhaust port regularly.

It is still FD rated however and still provides excellent protection, just is not as clean burning.

FD rating means literally nothing…

 

[Motorka]

Interesting

 

[redneckhillbilly]

not to derail this thread, but what about proper start and warm up procedure?
to blip the throttle a bunch or let idle?
wait 10 seconds or 2 minutes?
is there any official guidelines?

 

[SimonHS]

not to derail this thread, but what about proper start and warm up procedure?
to blip the throttle a bunch or let idle?
wait 10 seconds or 2 minutes?
is there any official guidelines?

My way is no blipping the throttle and no pi$$ revving from cold. Just idle for at least 30 seconds to warm it up.

 

[Partner]

The gas lock will speed up the process and prevent it from revving too high when cold / The warm-up time depends on the ambient temperature

 

[Partner]

not to derail this thread, but what about proper start and warm up procedure?
to blip the throttle a bunch or let idle?
wait 10 seconds or 2 minutes?
is there any official guidelines?

I'm glad you followed up on my inquiry because there was no response

 

[redneckhillbilly]

maybe we should start a new thread.
owners manuals dont give a while lot of info.

 

[bwalker]

FD rating means literally nothing…

Husqvarna for one would disagree with you.

 

[Partner]

FD rating means literally nothing…

The Japanese will write that ISO means nothing