High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

What oil is best? and what ratio?

huskihl

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Decided to tach the post test RA100-300 unit today with original head, muffler mod and RA 40:1. B4 testing, with this head on the 100:1 RA mix, it's tach reading was mid 9800's. That can be verified by going back in the thread. I thought some might find this interesting. Carry on..

She loosened up.
Hotdog vs hallway...
 

porsche965

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I was told on these threads that any engine, like a Stihl 441 etc, was bone dry at 100:1. Or was that 80:1? Anyway a far cry from 32:1-40:1 that's for sure. Great testing. Something I've never seen from any other self-proclaimed authorities.
 

huskyboy

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Not to rain on the parade, but the results that will be found in testing oil with a weedeater will be different than in a chainsaw for several reasons. That said, I do find the testing results interesting and a good read. They should give sort of a rough idea of what to expect.
 

Keith Gandy

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What we need is someone with a mill to conduct the same type testing I'm doing on cheap saws at lean ratios and post the results so we have that "side by side" comparison. I've never done this before so all the results are surprising and fascinating to me. Any takers on the trashing 6-10 saws on their mill for the good of the collective? I'm very interested in seeing the differences between oil performance in a heavily loaded saw vs what I'm doing. 9 hrs each ratio is kinda the base line. Bigger engines use more fuel so I'd think you will have to go hours to hours not gallon to gallon. Just a thought. Carry on gents. Enjoy your day.
Im not seeing this. If u load a weedeater to 1/2 of its top rpm and a saw the same, they are both being loaded to say 50% of their engineered usage? Whats the difference? They are both loaded well
 

huskyboy

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Im not seeing this. If u load a weedeater to 1/2 of its top rpm and a saw the same, they are both being loaded to say 50% of their engineered usage? Whats the difference? They are both loaded well
It’s pretty simple. Saws usually run at hotter temperatures and higher rpms. Loading a weedwacker is actually being easier on it than running it with no string. It will just carbon up faster. No string is like running a dull chain on a chainsaw. Speaking from experience here watching idiots blow up a weedwacker on a landscaping crew with 1” string sticking out. Lol
 

RI Chevy

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Good points. I think we all use what oil we feel is best in our machines.
I am always open to anything new that can be proven.
Like the fuel treatment that Steve @166 uses in a small Dolmar. He adds no oil, just a capfull of this fuel treatment and straight gas. Insides look good. You have to see it to believe it. I ran 2 full tanks through it and most of it had 16" bar buried in red oak.
Now this would be a cool test...[emoji106]
574b9e2c3a736ee772a4a8f1d5410b02.jpg
 

RI Chevy

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Yes. I ran Stihl orange bottle oil in my Stihl 029 for 20 years at 50:1. Then Stihl Ultra for a couple years. Then I found this forum, and started using different oils. But the insides looked brand new on my 029 when I sold it. Saw was used pretty hard. Much harder than it was designed for.
Ya just gotta use what you feel is best.
 

Keith Gandy

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It’s pretty simple. Saws usually run at hotter temperatures and higher rpms. Loading a weedwacker is actually being easier on it than running it with no string. It will just carbon up faster. No string is like running a dull chain on a chainsaw. Speaking from experience here watching idiots blow up a weedwacker on a landscaping crew with 1” string sticking out. Lol
Still not seeing the point. Piss rev the saw and weedeater or load them both? Testing them both should stress the engines one way or the other (loaded or not loaded), within their intended uses. I either load them or run them both unloaded at say 80% of their top rpm unloaded. Id say the saw would burn up first running at 80% of its top rpm unloaded
 
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Keith Gandy

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Yes. I ran Stihl orange bottle oil in my Stihl 029 for 20 years at 50:1. Then Stihl Ultra for a couple years. Then I found this forum, and started using different oils. But the insides looked brand new on my 029 when I sold it. Saw was used pretty hard. Much harder than it was designed for.
Ya just gotta use what you feel is best.
From what Ive seen repairing OPE daily ran on Stihl oil is larger CC engines like 60cc and up dont carbon nearly as bad as the smaller cc engines . That stihl oil carbons in weedwackers, blowers, and small saws like crazy
 

RI Chevy

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There was a thin layer or carbon on the piston top and some on the exhaust port. But the slug and jug looked brand new. Not even a single mark on the inside of the jug.
 

huskyboy

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From what Ive seen repairing OPE daily ran on Stihl oil is larger CC engines like 60cc and up dont carbon nearly as bad as the smaller cc engines . That stihl oil carbons in weedwackers, blowers, and small saws like crazy
Yes... which supports my post that saws run at hotter temperatures than small ope like weedeaters. Which is why they are better for testing oil.
 

Keith Gandy

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There was a thin layer or carbon on the piston top and some on the exhaust port. But the slug and jug looked brand new. Not even a single mark on the inside of the jug.
Yes its odd with Stihl oil. A tree service I service uses Stihl oil and all the larger 044s and up look good.
 

Keith Gandy

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And by the way I’m not partial to any oil guys, I just use what works for me. Though I’m always changing it up and experimenting.
Its easier for me to list the ones Id rather not use. H1R, Super Techniplate, Stihl. Also Amsoil as it leaves some depoists that Ive seen
 
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