What oil is best? and what ratio?

[jake wells]

U would be suprised at home much fuel and oil I go through cranking and test cutting, blowing, and trimming with customers equipment and my own. Not near as much as u though

i still got a few gallons of mix in the shed from last November i plan to use it this spring
it wont sour with a double dose of PRI G stabilizer.
you need to order a bottle,,, ethanol gas treated with that will last 3 years stored in a can as long as the can is sealed and full.

 

[jake wells]

Id venture to say that 9 out of 10 people dont tune at all. They run whatever the shop set it at and some of thoso shops do a piss poor job. I paid 614$ today for a new HT250 polesaw and they took it in the back and serviced it. When I get home guess what? Damn thing wouldnt even think about running they had it so out of whack on the L and H!! 1st thing I did was pour that piss poor Stihl Ultra out they put in it and put some red oil in it. Point is most people dont tune and alota the shops do a pitiful job and mix the bad tune with sorry oil and its a bad deal.

swap the shaft and turn it into a string trimmer. kinda pointless of the ht250 being a fixed length pole saw instead of a telescoping 4 mix deals they got.

 

[DSS]

I thought it was x-tra potatoes ?

 

[Keith Gandy]

i still got a few gallons of mix in the shed from last November i plan to use it this spring
it wont sour with a double dose of PRI G stabilizer.
you need to order a bottle,,, ethanol gas treated with that will last 3 years stored in a can as long as the can is sealed and full.

87 to 93 Efree is all I use and the RA also has alil stabalizer in . I never mix more than I need for a few weeks which is about 2 to 3 gallons for my equipment in use and customers equipment testing

 

[Keith Gandy]

swap the shaft and turn it into a string trimmer. kinda pointless of the ht250 being a fixed length pole saw instead of a telescoping 4 mix deals they got.

I work on the 4 mix daily and prefer straight 2 stroke by far. I just sold a ht100 because I dont care for the 4 mix motor and prefer the simplicity and power of the FS250 and HT250 units. As far as telescoping I clear more limbs in woods under 8ft than I want with a fixed shaft. I have no need for a telescoping unit as its extra weight to carry if not needed. I have 3 FS250s and thought about converting one but all have bike controls so,
1-Stihl inline controls/cable/dhandle 152$
1-Stihl 14" bar/chain $60
1-Stihl gearhead 279$
Made more sense for me to use 1 trimmer with bars for weedeating/brush clearing and sell 2 bikebar trimmers and pay for a new HT250?

 

[Keith Gandy]

swap the shaft and turn it into a string trimmer. kinda pointless of the ht250 being a fixed length pole saw instead of a telescoping 4 mix deals they got.

Plus when u get 49 with a tweaked bad back limbing with a 7ft fixed shaft is alot more comfortable than a super cumbersome/heavy telescoping shaft especially trimming under 8 to 10ft and limbing straight in front of u. I seldom need a polesaw to reach really high. Guess it depends on a mans needs and application but 85% of what I do with a polesaw would be 2x as much work dragging a ht101, ht 131, or the new ht133 around

 

[Keith Gandy]

swap the shaft and turn it into a string trimmer. kinda pointless of the ht250 being a fixed length pole saw instead of a telescoping 4 mix deals they got.

Down here tell a logger to use a underpowered/heavy ht101 telescoping unit over a 7ft fixed shaft ht250 and they will probably run u off!! Lol! They hate the 4 mix units because they crank the unit and snip a few limbs and shut if off without ever bringing it to operating temperature and that with the Stihl oil or cheap oil with valves spell trouble. Ht250 motor is the exact same as a fs250 which speaks for itself and isnt as prone to carbon as bad as that 4 mix unit with valves

 

[CR888]

Been running FB rated Shell mineral oil for a decade now in saws. When I joined AS years ago it was something I learned fast not to talk about. Near everyone was running full.synthetics, builders recommended nothing but to their loyal customers. Motul 800, Belray HR1 & Stihl Ultra were near what everyone was using. If they were not using the common high end F/S bike oils they insisted on a JASO FD rated F/S oil. Nothing could change their minds, rational thought & experience was put aside.

 

[Keith Gandy]

Been running FB rated Shell mineral oil for a decade now in saws. When I joined AS years ago it was something I learned fast not to talk about. Near everyone was running full.synthetics, builders recommended nothing but to their loyal customers. Motul 800, Belray HR1 & Stihl Ultra were near what everyone was using. If they were not using the common high end F/S bike oils they insisted on a JASO FD rated F/S oil. Nothing could change their minds, rational thought & experience was put aside.

IMO alota thoso older minerals oils r fine. I think the trouble comes in with bad tune and low operating temps. But I think alot of the oils mineral or synthetic just burn dirty regardless

 

[danimal]

I agree BUT I want my saw to last as long as they can as I dont buy a new saw every year or two. Do I think some oils will prolong longivity better than others? Yes 100%

Thats why I run souper pooper oil!
Clean air filters n sharp chains a must.
I buy these used tiques, have me bud do the bottom ends, I do the rest.
I dont want failures,,cant help the tree90 coils tho...
And yes, sum syns R very dirty.
KLUTZ! I wont mess with that chit no more..

 

[Keith Gandy]

Thats why I run souper pooper oil!
Clean air filters n sharp chains a must.
I buy these used tiques, have me bud do the bottom ends, I do the rest.
I dont want failures,,cant help the tree90 coils tho...
And yes, sum syns R very dirty.
KLUTZ! I wont mess with that chit no more..

The Klotz Super is very dirty but I think it could be used with a spot on tune. Have u tried Klotz Original Techniplate? Its not dirty at all

 

[KenJax Tree]

IMO alota thoso older minerals oils r fine. I think the trouble comes in with bad tune and low operating temps. But I think alot of the oils mineral or synthetic just burn dirty regardless

So what makes Shell fine and Castrol junk?

 

[Keith Gandy]

So what makes Shell fine and Castrol junk?

I never said it was? It may be fine but if its formulated anything like what they stir up for Stihl its a mess and will show its evil head sooner or later and your boss will be buying some new equipment way before that 1000 hr mark probably but then again maybe not? What do u use in your personal saws Chris?

 

[Keith Gandy]

So what makes Shell fine and Castrol junk?

I think most oils will be fine in qualified hands that tune and keep equipment in operating temp ranges but take an oil like Klotz Super in the wrong hands and it will make a big mess quick

 

[huskihl]

So what makes Shell fine and Castrol junk?

The cost

 

[Keith Gandy]

The cost

Who said?

 

[rogue60]

Anyone actually run stihl ultra oil in a pro saw tuned correctly not epa choked up out of tune homeowner crap barely running gumming up that's hardly a good representation of any oils performance but a pro saw tuned working hard under good load for a few years if so how bad is it really?
I got a so called free 5L of it with a 661 and 1st time I'd used it and wow the smell made me sick so used it as bar oil seemed to do well at that. but apart from smell and burns dirty so they say? how bad is it really as bad as they say?..
I think it's an ok oil as far as film strength goes an Aussie was milling with a 880 running it at 50:1 on AS he got a year out of it before it seized up most oils an 880 will not last a week running at 50:1 milling in summer over here.. The mix I run get an easy 10 times that out of an 880 working the guts out of it but anyway was asking how bad is stihl ultra really? not that I care was just wondering what the guys think that have actually run it for a good length of time and can tune a saw?.

 

[Sty57]

View attachment 56366

Run on jred oil (which was spec'd as tcw3 at the time), Stihl orange, and wally world tcw3 since new in 1988. Not promoting junk oil, but there's no need for $20/qt oil in a chainsaw. It's way more important to make sure it's tuned properly, and that there's enough oil in the mix

Well said Kevin

 

[Keith Gandy]

Anyone actually run stihl ultra oil in a pro saw tuned correctly not epa choked up out of tune homeowner crap barely running gumming up that's hardly a good representation of any oils performance but a pro saw tuned working hard under good load for a few years if so how bad is it really?
I got a so called free 5L of it with a 661 and 1st time I'd used it and wow the smell made me sick so used it as bar oil seemed to do well at that. but apart from smell and burns dirty so they say? how bad is it really as bad as they say?..
I think it's an ok oil as far as film strength goes an Aussie was milling with a 880 running it at 50:1 on AS he got a year out of it before it seized up most oils an 880 will not last a week running at 50:1 milling in summer over here.. The mix I run get an easy 10 times that out of an 880 working the guts out of it but anyway was asking how bad is stihl ultra really? not that I care was just wondering what the guys think that have actually run it for a good length of time and can tune a saw?.

Consider not everyone r experienced users like I posted previously. The majority of users r average with 0 mechanical/tuning abilities and Stihl Ultra in the wrong hands makes a dang mess. Its just that simple as I see it daily in whats brought into my shop

 

[Sty57]

Or is it x-tra plastic ?

X-tra pineapple? ....... pumpernickel? .........peanut butter? ........pbr?