What oil is best? and what ratio?

[skidooguy]

Has anybody here ever tried blue marble in a saw? It was the rage in sleds years ago but I don't hear much about it these days. Maybe it is just so 2006. Haha

 

[the GOAT]

Psst....over here


(I heard that this is the place where a guy could get ahold of some Mobil one 2t oil)

Who can hook me up?

 

[bwalker]

The way some people make it sound if you dont run an assload of thick ass bike oil at a heavy ratio your saw is doomed..i dont buy it..never did.

Not all bike oils are real thick. I actually prefer not to run really thick oils.

 

[sawmikaze]

Not all bike oils are real thick. I actually prefer not to run really thick oils.

Im not bike oil specialist but out of maye the 3 or 4 i tried K2 seemed to run and tune the easiest for me.

 

[bwalker]

K2 has worked well for me and I can reccomend it without reservation. Same with Yamalube 2R.

 

[bwalker]

For the boat oil guys.
http://www.sea-doo.net/the-late-great-oil-debate/2015/04/

 

[huskihl]

I understand it's certified oil and is a air cooled oil. I was led to believe it work well in my modded jetski. Now it's a watercooled motor under heavy load with major rpm swings. If low ash oil will not work well in a outboard how would it work well in my ski?
I'm looking for a good oil to protect better then tcw3 in my ski. It sounds like some are using it as a dedicated air cooled saw oil too. Is it a air oil or a water oil? And is it like what some are marketing as a multipurpose oil. I'm so confused in my skis application and oil required oil. Oem saws tcw3 and builders are saying go with a good tcw3 or it be better to use a low ash. Which is best as you guys see it.

I have some Quicksilver PWC full synthetic that's fd rated that I used in saws. No bad smell. Seemed to burn clean. Also, the Citgo (same as Mystic) Sea and Snow is fd certified. The way that article above reads, if your pwc is a Seadoo, I'd run an fd oil. I'm sure other brands recommend tcw3, but SDoo had problems. I think the mystic or citgo, being fd certified, is probably a better oil than tcw3 for keeping power valves clean

 

[bwalker]

Polaris reccomended low ash oils too.
And the FD rated aka low ash oils are a better oil for any application other than an outboard motor.
Alot of comprises had to be made in order to avoid plug fouling in outboards when operated at steady throttle for hours on end.

 

[CR500]

Not all bike oils are real thick. I actually prefer not to run really thick oils.

I wish gp7 was closer to you then!!!

GP7 has a a viscosity in the 8s similar to 2R

Only thing I don't care for is the low flash point around 160 degrees Fahrenheit , however that is not the end all number to worry about. There is always fresh fuel and mix entering and leaving.

Ben am I correct on not worrying to much about flash point?

 

[smokey7]

I am learning about the pwc needs. I'm glad I have some sea and snow to try. I am running it a pretty stout piston ported ski with high compression, porting and timing advanced. These machines usually are rebuild every other season at minimum and never a failure to date. But I am on the look to stop my bore taper issues hoping to last longer then 2 seasons. Weird thing is my bores are wore and my pistons are still in spec. I wonder if the weisco rings are too hard causing my liners to wear before a set of pistons are done. I have been using tcw3 since it's a watercooled motor. I thought I was doing good, now to see if the mystik helps that issue. I did just build a hot motor for my superjet I hope running mystik from the start will show me my mistakes in the past.

 

[bwalker]

It's also important to realise that the same conditions that foul power valves also foul exhaust ports and ring grooves. Get above the 300 degree threshold and you will be causing buildup that's not necessary and that won't happen with a low ash oil,3

 

[bwalker]

I wish gp7 was closer to you then!!!

GP7 has a a viscosity in the 8s similar to 2R

Only thing I don't care for is the low flash point around 160 degrees Fahrenheit , however that is not the end all number to worry about. There is always fresh fuel and mix entering and leaving.

Ben am I correct on not worrying to much about flash point?

If anything a lw flash point is indicative of a low flash solvent, which is a good thing as it pertains to oils containing solvents.
As I said long ago and many times. Flashpoint is nice to know for warehouses storing such oils and not much else.

 

[bwalker]

I am learning about the pwc needs. I'm glad I have some sea and snow to try. I am running it a pretty stout piston ported ski with high compression, porting and timing advanced. These machines usually are rebuild every other season at minimum and never a failure to date. But I am on the look to stop my bore taper issues hoping to last longer then 2 seasons. Weird thing is my bores are wore and my pistons are still in spec. I wonder if the weisco rings are too hard causing my liners to wear before a set of pistons are done. I have been using tcw3 since it's a watercooled motor. I thought I was doing good, now to see if the mystik helps that issue. I did just build a hot motor for my superjet I hope running mystik from the start will show me my mistakes in the past.

Ferrous sleeves? If so are you certain your machinist is using a torque plate when boring? Have you measured fresh after boring or plating? Tapering a cylinder after a season us pretty strange.
FWIW the newest Wiseco pistons, the ones with the black coating use the same ring design and material as Art which is the OEM piston maker for most of the Japanese companies. Art are also sold as Pro-x fwiw.

 

[smokey7]

Yes they are cast iron cylinder and sleeve. The pistons are not black coated as these are old machines and I use prolite pistons with the relief in the sides. Most are nos pistons from ebay. Rings are as supplied from the kit. Ring gap is usually .015 on set up and maybe .018 on tear down with .005 taper loose at top tight at bottom.

 

[bwalker]

I would order the new style pistons from wiseco or use a oem vast piston.

 

[smokey7]

I'm not sure weisco makes them anymore. I know pro lites are nla and i really like how they run. But I can buy nos prox pistons or sudoco pistons. Oem are stupid expensive. I used to use cast pistons and had some durability issues from the high compression and high revs collapsed the skirts then busted chunks off. So do you think it's a oil thing or a piston and ring problem?

 

[smokey7]

I was always under the impression that forged pistons were softer and expanded more and faster. I know my piston problems stopped now I noticed bore problems. I am very reticular rebuilding these can always hold very careful and accurate tolerances. I gotta say 2 seasons is between 200-300 gallons of fuel.

 

[bwalker]

I think the newer forged pistons are much harder than they use to be. The new wiseco ' are really good pro-x are the same as OEM, but if your having reliability issues.
What exact model are we talking about?

 

[bwalker]

My gut tells me this isnt an oil problem.

 

[jmssaws]