What oil is best? and what ratio?

[KenJax Tree]

On paper R50 is the best but my least favorite

Why is that?

For me its the smell it makes me nauseous.

 

[mdavlee]

Why is that?

For me its the smell it makes me nauseous.

It's tough to mill with it for me. Regular cutting isn't bad.

 

[mdavlee]

Klotz the slowest? Again, different saws will probably different results.

Yep. Probably too thick and too much to burn. R50 is another that leaves a wet piston top if not run hard. Leaves power on the table. Why spend all the money on porting to handicap it with tune and oil?

 

[Keith Gandy]

Yep. Probably too thick and too much to burn. R50 is another that leaves a wet piston top if not run hard. Leaves power on the table. Why spend all the money on porting to handicap it with tune and oil?

Mike have u used Benol? How was it compared to kl200?

 

[Ron660]

Again Im trying to figure out when u took the topend off your saw to see the piston? If u say through the plughole we r pissing in the wind

I agree. I've only seen the outer 1/3rd of my piston, rings, and piston skirt. I'm like you. I'm here to learn and I'm not dead-set on 800. I'm just sharing my experience. Once I finish my 3rd liter of 800 I'm trying 710 and something else.

 

[Ron660]

I think that's exactly how you judge the quality of a oil.

What do you use oil for? I use it to lube the piston and crank bearings.
Oil is mixed with gas to lube so the one that lubes the best is the one I use.

Lubricity is a key criteria in judging oil but you're leaving out detergency. Lubricity is only 1/3 of the evaluation used in determining the rating of an oil. Review the JASO 345 method and you'll understand.

 

[Ron660]

I'm sure motul is fine oil,it's on the shelf right beside the klotz I buy but I've never got any because mike Lee told me it won't burn in a saw and I believe him.

At 32:1 or even 40:1 klotz won't burn either that's why I run 50:1

Jason, I'll send you some if you would give it an honest try. Maybe you'll have a different result than Mike. But maybe the same....not sure.

 

[jmssaws]

Jason, I'll send you some if you would give it an honest try. Maybe you'll have a different result than Mike. But maybe the same....not sure.

I've never once called it bad cause I've not used it,I've got a good oil to use no point in trying another. Thanks though

 

[Ron660]

More black crud! Cant believe u guys would run that mess!!

Try the Mopar 50/50 method.....mix 800 with that Klotz.

 

[Ron660]

1 thing to consider with 800 was I remember Ben stating and showing a chart with contents of said oils and Motul 800t was the highest content of Zinc of any oil . Anyone wanna guess what Zinc will do to internals if stored for long periods in equipment?View attachment 18469

Thought zinc was good for the immune system??

 

[Ron660]

I've never once called it bad cause I've not used it,I've got a good oil to use no point in trying another. Thanks though

Yea if you've used it for years with good results I'd stay with it too. I'm still experimenting.

 

[Keith Gandy]

Thought zinc was good for the immune system??

It will rust the heck out of a bottomend if left to long without use

 

[Keith Gandy]

Remember, don't confuse yourself again. The quantity of oil in the lowerend of a saw doesn't represent the quality of the oil.

Im not sure I agree. They have an additive that aids in migration of the oil from the fuel and some migrate more easily than others. U dont want the oil to stay in the fuel and migrate to the topend to the point of impeding combustion?

 

[Keith Gandy]

Here again, we mention that “absolutely no oil” has a stronger film strength than castor based oils.

 

[Keith Gandy]

premix ratio should be a function of the average operating rpm that your vintage two stroke runs at. If you are at peak rpm all the time, 20:1 is a good idea. However for recreational level riders that don’t “scream” their engines constantly, leaner premixes will yield excellent long term wear.

 

[Ron660]

It will rust the heck out of a bottomend if left to long without use

I need to come down one day and let you check out the lower-ends. I might be switching to Klotz! Well with a little of 800 mixed in.

 

[Ron660]

Im not sure I agree. They have an additive that aids in migration of the oil from the fuel and some migrate more easily than others. U dont want the oil to stay in the fuel and migrate to the topend to the point of impeding combustion?

I'd say use the oil you're confident in and adjust the mix to the activity. I'm sure Mdavlee and Junkman tunes richer or adds more oil to their mix when milling. If you test 800 at 42:1, also try 800 and Klotz mixed at 50/50 and see what results you get. Both of those oils have extreme wear protection.

 

[Ron660]

On paper R50 is the best but my least favorite

I think your experience using oils is more important than any lab results. I'd believe a Logger's experience using oils rather than any tech or MSDS (now called SDS) data.

 

[jmssaws]

I think your experience using oils is more important than any lab results. I'd believe a Logger's experience using oils rather than any tech or MSDS (now called SDS) data.

I mostly port saws for a living and have for the last 10 years so I've had a few saws apart and seen what lots of oil does.

 

[concretegrazer]

It will rust the heck out of a bottomend if left to long without use

Are you sure about that?